Problem with brakes ?
Problem with brakes ?
Author
Discussion

maston

Original Poster:

872 posts

182 months

Tuesday 28th February 2012
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Hi All,
Sorry if this is a really basic question but every now and then (completely at random) the brake pedal will become very slack with it travelling nearly to the floor when I try and brake. Very disconcerting whilst trying to stop !!!
Do you think the brakes need bleeding and if so do all 4 need to be done or can just the front brakes be bled ?
Many Thanks
Ian


njhucker

377 posts

290 months

Tuesday 28th February 2012
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If it happens after a few miles, then it is likely to be a sticky rear caliper. I have had this on 2 wedges

vampire222

433 posts

179 months

Tuesday 28th February 2012
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I'd have the fluid replaced and see if they don't stick or have worn out. Safety is a serious matter! If you end up replacing the fluid i can highly recommend steel brake lines btw!

keatsie

326 posts

194 months

Wednesday 29th February 2012
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Air getting into the system or seal gone on the master cylinder - check carefully, brakes are so..... important

adam quantrill

11,679 posts

272 months

Wednesday 29th February 2012
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Try going for a few miles drive without using the brakes at all if you can - safety first of course. Best to pick a quiet day and use the gears to slow down etc.

THen go round each brake to see how warm it is - any binding brakes will be much warmer than the others.

TVRleigh_BBWR

6,553 posts

243 months

Wednesday 29th February 2012
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When was the Fluid changed, if you don't know or more than 3 years, change it and do a full bleed. but also do the checks posted above.

jeff m2

2,060 posts

181 months

Wednesday 29th February 2012
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I would think the odds are, a problem with the master.
Even with really bad brakes the master should always "refill" from the res.

To get "nothing" on the pedal, ie less than bleeding pressure with an open bleeder, tells you a lot.



bradderztvr

364 posts

177 months

Wednesday 29th February 2012
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Agree with above, I had this happen several years ago and was fluid passing the seals in the master cylinder.
In any case, check free movement of the caliper pistons, bleed the system, if still a prob, it's the master cyl.

RCK974X

2,521 posts

179 months

Wednesday 29th February 2012
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If you get pressure if you repeatedly pump the pedal, then it's probably master cylinder (just the seals if you're lucky...).

Try it cold in the garage before you fire it up. If you get pressure then, but not after driving for a while, consider the sticky or seized caliper more likely... the master cyl problem will show up even when stone cold.

Mine was fine even for quick stops, once I got into the habit of pumping the pedal, but it got a bit silly and probably dangerous..... New seals fixed it.

New brake fluid might help - you're supposed to change it regularly, but nobody does.(OK, a select few do) After it absorbs water, its boiling point drops very rapidly and you get gas bubbles....

Bleeding and new fluid - with any vehicle I typically do the shortest runs first (i.e. front), and then longer runs (rear). Wedges are a bugger because they have the inline pressure reducer for the rear, and the rear calipers have two (three ?) wonderful looped pipes which are perfect for gas bubbles, and it can take a lot of bleeding (and cursing) to get it all flushed out.





Edited by RCK974X on Wednesday 29th February 22:34

maston

Original Poster:

872 posts

182 months

Wednesday 29th February 2012
quotequote all
Thank you everyone for your replies.
Have booked it in with my local garage and will get a new master cylinder fitted too.
Where is the best place to get one ?
Thanks again
Regards
Ian

TVRleigh_BBWR

6,553 posts

243 months

Thursday 1st March 2012
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RCK974X said:
Bleeding and new fluid - with any vehicle I typically do the shortest runs first (i.e. front), and then longer runs (rear). Wedges are a bugger because they have the inline pressure reducer for the rear, and the rear calipers have two (three ?) wonderful looped pipes which are perfect for gas bubbles, and it can take a lot of bleeding (and cursing) to get it all flushed out.
AFAIK you should always do the longest one 1st.

The auto pressure bleed systems are very handy and not that expensive.

RCK974X

2,521 posts

179 months

Friday 2nd March 2012
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Yeah, I think many manuals *DO* say longest first, but I never got that order to work with any vehicle that had a rear pressure reducer.....I reckon the bubbles in the front get in the way.

On cars without the valve had no problem doing longest first.

That's just my personal experience, so whatever works !

Brake pressure systems (Ezibleed etc) are good but waste a lot of brake fluid as I understand.

adam quantrill

11,679 posts

272 months

Friday 2nd March 2012
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Deffo do the longest one first on the wedge because that is invariably the one where the bleed nipple won't work and if you don't do that one first all the rest of the effort (and brake fluid) is wasted.

Wedg1e

27,041 posts

295 months

Saturday 3rd March 2012
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RCK974X said:
Brake pressure systems (Ezibleed etc) are good but waste a lot of brake fluid as I understand.
They don't waste much.

RCK974X

2,521 posts

179 months

Saturday 3rd March 2012
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Fair enough - perhaps I'll go and buy one and try it out !!!