Discussion
I'm pretty sure they are tubular steel manlyfolds on Gav's car.
I guess you could always fit a pair of cast ones off a SD1/Rangie to get you out of trouble Gav?
Not exactly a powering improving mod though and it may force other mods on the down pipes.
The problem you have with just welding up what you can see is that there will almost certainly be other cracks & splits you cant see.
I know it's not what you want to hear mate but all in all the best way to sort it would be to whip both manlyfolds off and get them welded up and water tested.
You really cant hope to do a proper job without removing them.
The problem looks to me like the almost impossible access to the manlyfold bolts, Chimp ones are not easy
Wedge ones look worse
With the hoses already off and the rad out I would say the best option may be a part engine lift to get the manlyfolds above the inner wing?
Advise on V8 manlyfold removal from the experienced Wedgies would be gratefully received chaps
I guess you could always fit a pair of cast ones off a SD1/Rangie to get you out of trouble Gav?
Not exactly a powering improving mod though and it may force other mods on the down pipes.
The problem you have with just welding up what you can see is that there will almost certainly be other cracks & splits you cant see.
I know it's not what you want to hear mate but all in all the best way to sort it would be to whip both manlyfolds off and get them welded up and water tested.
You really cant hope to do a proper job without removing them.
The problem looks to me like the almost impossible access to the manlyfold bolts, Chimp ones are not easy
Wedge ones look worse
With the hoses already off and the rad out I would say the best option may be a part engine lift to get the manlyfolds above the inner wing?
Advise on V8 manlyfold removal from the experienced Wedgies would be gratefully received chaps
I know from taking off the tubular manifolds its a slow going process, the left hand side comes off easer than the righ but you will have to take off the starter to help drop the pipe downwards, if you lift the engine then it should be soo much easer to access the rear nuts/bolts.
I would remove the bottom row firts, some you will be able to get a socket onto just dont snap any
Cambelt
I would remove the bottom row firts, some you will be able to get a socket onto just dont snap any
Cambelt
Campbell said:
I know from taking off the tubular manifolds its a slow going process, the left hand side comes off easer than the righ but you will have to take off the starter to help drop the pipe downwards, if you lift the engine then it should be soo much easer to access the rear nuts/bolts.
I would remove the bottom row firts, some you will be able to get a socket onto just dont snap any
Cambelt
Nice one Campbell, I figured it would be a fun job (not).I would remove the bottom row firts, some you will be able to get a socket onto just dont snap any
Cambelt
Gav, happy to make the tea & give moral support while you get stuck in mate.
Lets face it, you don't want my great banana fingers on your nuts do you
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mv4mKoyS2zA&fea...
When I did my manifold gaskets it took about 4 hours to remove the manifolds.
You need to take off the starter motor, it also helps to take off both engine mountings. Jack the car up so you can access from underneath, and also jack the engine up by about 8 inches (you might need to disconnect wiring and vac pipes.
I welded my o/s manifold up, but to be honest it was a bit on the thin side.
New manifolds in mild steel are pretty hard to find now, but I know a couple of Wedgers who've had stainless manifolds made up.
You need to take off the starter motor, it also helps to take off both engine mountings. Jack the car up so you can access from underneath, and also jack the engine up by about 8 inches (you might need to disconnect wiring and vac pipes.
I welded my o/s manifold up, but to be honest it was a bit on the thin side.
New manifolds in mild steel are pretty hard to find now, but I know a couple of Wedgers who've had stainless manifolds made up.
I still have the old manifolds of the SEAC mild steel in the back stable but looking a little worse for wair and one will need sorting as i changed to SS all the way through.
Keep at it im sure you will get the rest of the bolts out, use new bolts when put it all back togeather.
Cambelt
Keep at it im sure you will get the rest of the bolts out, use new bolts when put it all back togeather.
Cambelt
The manifolds are wedge-specific whether they're mild steel or stainless. As has been said on here you need to take the starter motor off but, in my experience, only the driver's side engine mount to change them. I don't know where you'd get new mild steel ones but new stainless ones can be bought from ACT or TVR Car Parts - they're both the same system as made by JP Exhausts and are about £600 for the pair.
I have a pair of used mild steel ones available for beer tokens. The passenger side is Ok but the drivers side has pinholes at the back where they're exposed to road spray although it could be sleeved if you didn't want to fork out for stainless?
I have a pair of used mild steel ones available for beer tokens. The passenger side is Ok but the drivers side has pinholes at the back where they're exposed to road spray although it could be sleeved if you didn't want to fork out for stainless?
Manfolds and complete systems are expensive, for wedges. I doesn't help that there are more than one system especally at the rear. Single pipe on left twin pies either side, twin pipes to the right and the SEAC and 450 dustbin size on the right some were!
Even then there's differant diam pipes its a nightmare!
Some good new's (Not for you Gav sorry) Tim at ACT is part sponsoring BBWF and will have a stall. So if anybodys thinking about getting a system (Or anything you want/need) and can hold out till then I am certain he will oblige you by haveing a basic set or better still contact Tim before hand! so he brings what you need to BBWF.
But please don't pay till BBWF as he's giving us 20% for charity on the day. As is Richard from RT Racing from his stall!
Andy
Even then there's differant diam pipes its a nightmare!
Some good new's (Not for you Gav sorry) Tim at ACT is part sponsoring BBWF and will have a stall. So if anybodys thinking about getting a system (Or anything you want/need) and can hold out till then I am certain he will oblige you by haveing a basic set or better still contact Tim before hand! so he brings what you need to BBWF.
But please don't pay till BBWF as he's giving us 20% for charity on the day. As is Richard from RT Racing from his stall!
Andy
bubblehead said:
I have a set of stainless manifolds which i believe came off a 400se, hardly used almost like new, they came with an engine i bought but foul the removable cross member on my Griff. Let me know if you want pics and dimension etc.
Yes please Kevin, perhaps you could e-mail me.... ThanksGavin
Solitude said:
Gonna regret saying this.....but bolts came out real easy (passenger side), took about 40mins with a range of sockets and open end spanner.
Will attempt removal tomorrow !!!!!
Yep, regret saying that.........Will attempt removal tomorrow !!!!!
Took me over four hours to remove the drivers side manifold......what a ba**^rd.
Had to remove engine mount for a bit of room as well as half a dozen other things, and then the sections did not want to part company !!
I about lost it i swear.
They are tubular steel, and light as a feather actually but by christ, what a bloody pain.
I have a heavy cold too so you can imagine the cussing that ent on !!
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