350i Propshaft UJ

[Convert]

Has anyone replaced the rear UJ on a 350i prop?

If so any idea what the UJ is off, or a part number.


Just been under mine and there is quite a bit of play in it... explains the clunking noise... hopefully.

[mrzigazaga]

Convert said:

Just been under mine and there is quite a bit of play in it... explains the clunking noise... hopefully.

Hi Mate..I had the same thing in my 280..There was a clunk when putting into gear, A bit like an auto..A little while after my prop broke and needed to be welded and re-balanced..They put a new UJ in with a serviceable grease nipple in which is good..Not sure about the 350 though...Ziga

[Convert]

Cheers Mark, Hopefully yours (well that bit of it ) is sorted now.

[mrzigazaga]

Yep, Sorted now mate..It was a bit scary as i had just come off of a motorway and the car started shaking like a naked eskimo..Apparently the prop had snapped but was hanging on by a thread..

[adam quantrill]

I think the proshaft might be off a Renault. Why you may ask? On my first wedge I noticed Renault lozenge logos on the bearing cups. Now this might be a step too far but at least the UJ's might have Renault equivalents.

[Jack Valiant]

Doing the prop U/J in situ is more than a little tricky! Likewise getting it out of the chassis cage can be done but you will spend many hours figuring out which gap it will come out off. If you do it yourself mark the gaps you get it out from with chalk as it will aid putting it back! Measure the cups carefully and you will be able to source the replacements on line i used the heavy duty options with grease nipples from Spicer. I seem to remember that the prop was Jag but i cannot be sure.

[Jack Valiant]

Theres a 400 SE prop on fleabay if you look under TVR Wedge should be good for your car?

Chris

[Convert]

Jack Valiant said:

Theres a 400 SE prop on fleabay if you look under TVR Wedge should be good for your car?

Chris

Cheers Chris

[adam quantrill]

Jack Valiant said:

Doing the prop U/J in situ is more than a little tricky! Likewise getting it out of the chassis cage can be done but you will spend many hours figuring out which gap it will come out off. If you do it yourself mark the gaps you get it out from with chalk as it will aid putting it back!

Too right! it only comes out one gap and I took a few hours trying all the gaps to get it back in!!!

[Convert]

Cheers guys, the one on fleabay is £72 !! and doesn't look too good.

Found a local chap who'll remove the UJ, and refit a new one for £35..

[Convert]

Right finally got all the bloody bolts out 4 rears were quite easy, but I spent nearly 2 hours getting 2 of the front ones out last night !!

Went and bought a 14mm ratchet spanner and did the other 2 in 20 minutes tonight.

You were all right though. I can't figure out how to get the f!#@$ng thing out of the chassis rails. Can anyone remember if it goes out at the diff end or the gearbox end? Do I need to take the exhaust off, raise the gearbox, nuke the fu#cer from space.


As always any advice (even if it's chill and go for a beer) appreciated.

[adam quantrill]

It comes out the diff end. Between one of the gaps in the cage. But get that chalk to hand under the car because when you find the right hole, you do NOT want to forget which one for when you put it back.

[Convert]

Cheers Adam, I guess there's no need to take the exhaust off then.

Time to get the pry bars and persuader out methinks.

[adam quantrill]

No need for that. It's just a case of jiggling it round to the right angle. As I recall it was to one side, maybe the left hand side, but this was from 16+ years ago (have I really been Wedging that long???)