Hydraulic clutch conversion??
Discussion
Hi Peeps..Driving about earlier and i could feel the clutch cable creaking again...It then felt like it popped a bit..And kept creaking..It was this time last year that it snapped so i thought id better check it, I removed the oil filter as thats the only way to get to the adjuster..Removed the steering wheel so that i could get under the dash..Un-done the 10mm nut that holds the cable banjo on and low and behold half the cable had frayed and was starting to snap...Cut some new cable and refitted it..Im not looking forward to doing it again next year or sooner and wondered what would be involved to fit an hydraulic clutch..Cheers..Ziga
I used to have a transit van where the cable snapped almost every year, yet when a genuine Ford cable was fitted it lasted much much longer. This makes me think that not all cables are of the same quality or its the way they are lubricated that makes them last. Just a suggestion.
Tony.TCB.
Tony.TCB.
Where the cable joins the arm or whatever it pulls on, is it some sort of metal piece?
If so it might be rubbing on a sharp edge. When I had a problem with my accelerator cable fraying, the pedal end had a really sharp edge. So when fixing it I also filed the edges with a needle file to round them over - no more problems.
If so it might be rubbing on a sharp edge. When I had a problem with my accelerator cable fraying, the pedal end had a really sharp edge. So when fixing it I also filed the edges with a needle file to round them over - no more problems.
Solitude said:
Zig, these cars ain't for you
Power steering, hydraulic clutches.....what next, Auto gearbox and a chauffer ??
Get a chimp for crying out loud (crimson handbag purple rinse preferably)
Tart
MAN UP !!
Get back in the garden & finish than lawn you Power steering, hydraulic clutches.....what next, Auto gearbox and a chauffer ??
Get a chimp for crying out loud (crimson handbag purple rinse preferably)
Tart
MAN UP !!
Oh I forgot, the Wedge mower is no more operational than the ambulance white Wedge itself
What next an immobile Wedge van?
A conked out Wedge Audi A4?
The Wedge curse has really struck the Wedge
Ok..Hydraulics out of the question..Here is a drawing of the set up..The cable goes into the banjo and then fits over the cable guide which is secured via a 10mm nut,..The outer covering of the cable is what operates the clutch...The cable is just a guide..There is an outer sleeve on the top of the pedal that pushes the outer covering of the cable along the cable, The cable rubs down on the bottom edge of the outer sleeve which has a plastic type guide in a groove..At the other end is a nipple with a grub screw and the whole thing sits in a hole inside the actuating arm of the clutch..I did mean to spray some grease down the casing before i fed the cable through but forgot...I will try to get dome down it tomorrow..The only place it normally snaps is where the bottom grub screw is on the banjo..Cheers..Ziga
Zig,
I think I posted this before, but just in case, here it is (again ?)
The design completely SUCKS !
Look carefully at the metal sleeve which pushes the outer sheath. On my wedge, this tube was too long, and as a result would rub on the INNER cable near the end of its travel. This was fraying the cable and causing it to snap. The sleeve on mine had a telltale wear mark on its top (hard to see without taking it off).
I shortened the sleeve with a hacksaw and filed it nice and smooth. Since then the clutch has been a LOT lighter, and have had no more trouble. I have also rejigged the grommet to support the cable better, with a nylon 'U' shaped edging I got from the equiv. of a Maplin store.
Also check the curved 'guide' (where the inner bolts onto) for any sharp edges, and make sure the inner is as straight as possible (yeah, I know it still curves a lot), and make sure it's all aligned as well as possible (the curved bit simply bolts in, or does on mine at least, and can be adjusted a little up and down)
Yes the inner still slowly wears away the nylon top bush which is part of the cable - can't see any way around this without making a whole new bracket arrangement (which I might still do...)
and there were hydraulic clutch setups for 2.8's but I don't know if you can still get them...I think they had a special annular slave cylinder ?
I think I posted this before, but just in case, here it is (again ?)
The design completely SUCKS !
Look carefully at the metal sleeve which pushes the outer sheath. On my wedge, this tube was too long, and as a result would rub on the INNER cable near the end of its travel. This was fraying the cable and causing it to snap. The sleeve on mine had a telltale wear mark on its top (hard to see without taking it off).
I shortened the sleeve with a hacksaw and filed it nice and smooth. Since then the clutch has been a LOT lighter, and have had no more trouble. I have also rejigged the grommet to support the cable better, with a nylon 'U' shaped edging I got from the equiv. of a Maplin store.
Also check the curved 'guide' (where the inner bolts onto) for any sharp edges, and make sure the inner is as straight as possible (yeah, I know it still curves a lot), and make sure it's all aligned as well as possible (the curved bit simply bolts in, or does on mine at least, and can be adjusted a little up and down)
Yes the inner still slowly wears away the nylon top bush which is part of the cable - can't see any way around this without making a whole new bracket arrangement (which I might still do...)
and there were hydraulic clutch setups for 2.8's but I don't know if you can still get them...I think they had a special annular slave cylinder ?
Edited by RCK974X on Monday 21st May 20:34
Edited by RCK974X on Monday 21st May 20:40
RCK974X said:
Look carefully at the metal sleeve which pushes the outer sheath. On my wedge, this tube was too long,I have also rejigged the grommet to support the cable better, with a nylon 'U' shaped edging I got from the equiv. of a Maplin store.
Cheers for that mate..The tube on mine looks ok and is only about an inch and a half long..The grommet is missing which seems to cause the outer sleeve to pull the whole thing slightly off centre when you depress the pedal...Perhaps this could be causing the issue...I will look out for something like what you have..A "U" shaped grommet, I will pop down to maplins tomorrow..Cheers..ZigaZig,
An INCH AND A HALF IS TOO LONG - or that's what I reckon, mine was about that length (from memory) and definitely rubbed. I reckon my tube is now about 3/4 inch ...
Are you sure there's no rub mark on it ?? can you check with the pedal wedged up with a block of wood ?
Unless of course they TVR guys changed the alignment between mine (1982) and yours
An INCH AND A HALF IS TOO LONG - or that's what I reckon, mine was about that length (from memory) and definitely rubbed. I reckon my tube is now about 3/4 inch ...
Are you sure there's no rub mark on it ?? can you check with the pedal wedged up with a block of wood ?
Unless of course they TVR guys changed the alignment between mine (1982) and yours
Hi Mate..I will have another look tomorrow..Thing is i dont fancy doing it all again..Not yet anyway!!..The tube on mine has a bolt so that it can be moved around..There is a groove but it has a plastic runner thingy in it..I might wedge the pedal forward and see if i can align the tube so that it doesnt touch the cable..I think a grommet will help as well...Cheers...Ziga
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