Discussion
Wedg1e said:
Plenty of them on the 'bay, usually in sets of 8 with half the engine bay still attached to them.
How many do you need, I have several spare sets.
You can test them yourself to see if they actually need cleaning, doesn't take long, just need a length of fuel hose and a jam jar
Thanks wedg1e,How many do you need, I have several spare sets.
You can test them yourself to see if they actually need cleaning, doesn't take long, just need a length of fuel hose and a jam jar
any chance of describing (in leymans terms) how to do it.
Gently please, engines are a mystery to me, but am willing to have a go, as i do most other stuff myself !!
Gavin
2x always handy having guides for stuff like thisThe Hatter said:
The cleaning procedure's on Ramon's vintagemodelairplane site...
Probably because someone else wrote it down and he copied it out in his very best handwriting.There are a few ways to go about it, one technique is to lift the entire fuel rail with the injectors attached, off the inlet manifold (if necessary, extend the supply hose from the pump and the tank return line).
Then reconnect any one injector electrical connector. Position a jam jar under the injector with the connector on it (obviously) and with the ignition system disabled (HT king lead pulled out of the dissy cap and laid on a good earth works well) have an assistant crank the engine for a measured time.
Watch the spray pattern from the injector: it should be a perfect cone shape with no gaps. Measure and note down the quantity of fuel delivered to the jar, then tip it back into the tank (or a suitable container for emptying later). Observe that once your mate stops cranking, the injector does not drip or continue to spray.
Repeat for all the other injectors.
Assuming the spray pattern is fine, the amount of fuel should be the same for all 8 injectors.
This isn't the tidiest way to go about it but it saves deriving a high-pressure fluid supply in the kitchen
Don't worry too much about spilt fuel, even with HT sparks flying about it takes a fairly critical set of circumstances for anything to catch fire.
If the spray pattern is irregular or the injector fails to snap closed whn cranking stops, it may benefit from a clean as Martin says.
There are fine mesh filters on the inlet side that can collect crud so if the flow rate is down but the pattern is OK, look there first.
Edited for flow rate clarity...
Edited by Wedg1e on Monday 11th June 13:29
Wedg1e said:
There are a few ways to go about it, one technique is to lift the entire fuel rail with the injectors attached, off the inlet manifold (if necessary, extend the supply hose from the pump and the tank return line).
Then reconnect any one injector electrical connector. Position a sausage skin under the injector with the connector on it (obviously) and with the ignition system disabled (HT king lead pulled out of the dissy cap and laid on a good earth works well) have an assistant crank the engine for a measured time or until the sausage skin looks like a cumberland variety.
Watch the spray pattern from the injector: it should be a perfect cone shape with no gaps. Measure and note down the quantity of fuel delivered to the sausage skin, then tip it back into the tank (or a suitable container for emptying later)Do not place on the BBQ. Observe that once your mate stops cranking, the injector does not drip or continue to spray.
Repeat for all the other injectors.
Assuming the spray pattern is fine, the amount of fuel should be the same for all 8 injectors.
This isn't the tidiest way to go about it but it saves deriving a high-pressure fluid supply in the kitchen
Don't worry too much about spilt fuel, even with HT sparks flying about it takes a fairly critical set of circumstances for anything to catch fire.
If the spray pattern is irregular or the injector fails to snap closed whn cranking stops, it may benefit from a clean as Martin says.
There are fine mesh filters on the inlet side that can collect crud so if the flow rate is down but the pattern is OK, look there first.
Edited for flow rate clarity...
Sorry ian..Just getting me own back on him...Then reconnect any one injector electrical connector. Position a sausage skin under the injector with the connector on it (obviously) and with the ignition system disabled (HT king lead pulled out of the dissy cap and laid on a good earth works well) have an assistant crank the engine for a measured time or until the sausage skin looks like a cumberland variety.
Watch the spray pattern from the injector: it should be a perfect cone shape with no gaps. Measure and note down the quantity of fuel delivered to the sausage skin, then tip it back into the tank (or a suitable container for emptying later)Do not place on the BBQ. Observe that once your mate stops cranking, the injector does not drip or continue to spray.
Repeat for all the other injectors.
Assuming the spray pattern is fine, the amount of fuel should be the same for all 8 injectors.
This isn't the tidiest way to go about it but it saves deriving a high-pressure fluid supply in the kitchen
Don't worry too much about spilt fuel, even with HT sparks flying about it takes a fairly critical set of circumstances for anything to catch fire.
If the spray pattern is irregular or the injector fails to snap closed whn cranking stops, it may benefit from a clean as Martin says.
There are fine mesh filters on the inlet side that can collect crud so if the flow rate is down but the pattern is OK, look there first.
Edited for flow rate clarity...
Edited by mrzigazaga on Monday 11th June 13:48
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