YEAAAAHHH Fuel + spark now for the timing

[vampire222]

now for whipping the timing gun out and such, i'm so happy i got my ignition working finally!

Now for the last step to get my wedge growling again! How do i do this any good picture guides? I had lots of trouble getting the dizzy back on that pointy thing at the bottom of the hole was being a b*tch... So i mightve put it in 180deg wrong? How do i fine tune when it has to be on that little thing exactly?

Edited by vampire222 on Thursday 5th July 19:43

[ralph350i]

vampire222 said:

now for whipping the timing gun out and such, i'm so happy i got my ignition working finally!

Now for the last step to get my wedge growling again! How do i do this any good picture guides? I had lots of trouble getting the dizzy back on that pointy thing at the bottom of the hole was being a b*tch... So i mightve put it in 180deg wrong? How do i fine tune when it has to be on that little thing exactly?

Edited by vampire222 on Thursday 5th July 19:43

Hi Vampire222
Well this is the way i do it mate, remove plug 1 and get a wet issue and plug up the hole, then crank the engine around with a spanner until the issue pops out, then your TDC on the compression stoke, then install the dizzy checking the rotor arm is just before the timing mark on the dizzy, fire it up and adjust, you may need to move it a little, but it works, hope that helps and good luck, cheers Ralph

[vampire222]

Ooh that's a creative way of finding TDC! Hope it works well, i'll try this tomorrow.

[honestjohntoo]

http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Download...

Scroll down to "ignition timing" and read the next four paragraphs.

Or just read everything! Including the mentioned link.

[rev-erend]

Your profile does not say what model / engine you have
but I will presume it's a V8.

Once it's running you can use a strobe.

Attached it to lead no.1 which is on the passenger side nearest the front
press the trigger with the engine running and aim the stobe at the crank
pulley, hopefully it will be marked up.

Your need to set it to 8 degrees BTDC (Before top dead centre) or alternatively you can set it at 28 degrees at 4000 rpm which would be its max advance but it should not really be necessary to do that.

Points :

What out the cables do not stage in any moving parts, same goes for your hands
and clothing.
Block the advance retard on the dizzy.

[vampire222]

rev-erend said:

Your profile does not say what model / engine you have
but I will presume it's a V8.

Block the advance retard on the dizzy.

Yeah it's a 350i V8.

So i just plug up the air hole in the vacuum advance housing till i've set timing?

[rev-erend]

Yes - if its a rubber hose them a pair of mole grips will do the trick.

I used to run my seac with out the vac advance retard .. you should give it a try
as it feels a lot different.

[vampire222]

Still no joy, i checked the TDC with my thumb on the plug hole, felt the compression and the top corresponded perfectly with TDC on the crank pulley.

At this point the distributor arrow is pointing South Southwest, seen from the front of the car which is way too far according to most layouts (where 8 is south and 1 is south south east) how did that happen? Anyway i put the 1cyl lead just before that so that's It still wont start but the plugs fire according to a plug testing light and are wet with petrol.

I'm sure i wired it correctly as all the leads have a nifty numbering sticker on them.

So weird this.... Anyone got any good advice?

[rev-erend]

Check the plug leads are in the firing order.. 1, 8, 4, 3 etc

Next - I unclamp the dizzy .. and have someone turn it over and swing the dizzy one way then the other..

[ralph350i]

vampire222 said:

Still no joy, i checked the TDC with my thumb on the plug hole, felt the compression and the top corresponded perfectly with TDC on the crank pulley.

At this point the distributor arrow is pointing South Southwest, seen from the front of the car which is way too far according to most layouts (where 8 is south and 1 is south south east) how did that happen? Anyway i put the 1cyl lead just before that so that's It still wont start but the plugs fire according to a plug testing light and are wet with petrol.

I'm sure i wired it correctly as all the leads have a nifty numbering sticker on them.

So weird this.... Anyone got any good advice?

Hi
Is your rotor arm pointing just before the mark on the dizzy?? and sound like you have the leads in the wrong order

[vampire222]

I feel stupid as can be now, eventually i took off the air filter and sprayed in some start help spray.....

fired right up! So i figured, what if the fuel pump doesn't get any juice... And it didn't so i put a + wire from the + of the battery to the fuel pump and guess what it started and idled!

1400 RPM cold idle though probably needs some ignition fine tuning.

[ralph350i]

vampire222 said:

I feel stupid as can be now, eventually i took off the air filter and sprayed in some start help spray.....

fired right up! So i figured, what if the fuel pump doesn't get any juice... And it didn't so i put a + wire from the + of the battery to the fuel pump and guess what it started and idled!

1400 RPM cold idle though probably needs some ignition fine tuning.

Well at lease you got it sorted mate, congrats always a good feeling

[vampire222]

Now i've had a timing light on it and the closest i can get to 8BTDC is 20BTDC~

so it ignites WAAAAY early.
that damn amplifier on the distributor is in the way, is it supposed to be on the left or the right side, can i make adjustments other than turning it in any way? It runs like that but not happily!

Or can i just move everything clockwise by one and try again?

Edited by vampire222 on Friday 6th July 20:52

Edited by vampire222 on Friday 6th July 20:52

[Wedg1e]

There are two versions of the distributor: one has the ignition amp and vacuum capsule at about 90 degrees to each other, the other has them almost diametrically opposite. The latter type is more fussy about where you initially set it.
The other type generally has the vac capsule 'pointing' towards the bonnet badge so the amp is near the air filter (at 8BTDC).
Number 1 plug lead is usually about 5 o'clock if you're standing on the left of the car looking at the dizzy. You can of course put the plug leads anywhere you like as long as the leads will reach and the firing order's correct. Set the crank to TDC, aim the rotor arm towards say 6 o'clock and see how far it swings as the gears (and oil pump drive) mesh. Move rotor arm by the required amount to correct and drop the dizzy back in again.
Should be a 2 minute job (unless, as on my car, the power steering pump bracket is in the way and you have to borrow Gary Glitter's hands to get tools on the dizzy clamp bolt... )...

[vampire222]

Figures, but how do i move the oil pump drive thingy a bit, do i need a special tool or is there some secretive black magic? I imagine if i can move the rotor back a notch it'll be able to get timed to 8btdc easily.

[Wedg1e]

vampire222 said:

Figures, but how do i move the oil pump drive thingy a bit, do i need a special tool or is there some secretive black magic? I imagine if i can move the rotor back a notch it'll be able to get timed to 8btdc easily.

I use a length of M12 studding with a slot cut in the end, wrapped in tape to avoid damaging the dissy port: there's not that much resistance from the pump so you may find a creatively-bent welding rod or similar would suffice.

[Wedg1e]

Here you go, pic of my car, an hour ago:



OK, my '90 degrees' between the vac capsule and ignition amp is more like 60-70 degrees but compared to the alternative type there's a lot more scope for tweaking.

[rev-erend]

One the engine bulk head is an inertial switch - which cuts the power to the fuel pump. I had mine in the up position after I filled up with fuel (missed the ferry to France as a result). Its a 2 inch square box on the engine bulkhead. Pust the knob on the top down. Hope it is this..

[vampire222]

Wedg1e said:

I use a length of M12 studding with a slot cut in the end, wrapped in tape to avoid damaging the dissy port: there's not that much resistance from the pump so you may find a creatively-bent welding rod or similar would suffice.

I found out that even using a long flathead screwdriver to tip it around works well!

[Wedg1e]

vampire222 said:

I found out that even using a long flathead screwdriver to tip it around works well!

All's well then

Job sorted?