No plus to the fuel pump

[vampire222]

Hi guys, i've got my 350i running by wiring the + directly to the fuel pump from my battery....

The one at the fuel pump doesnt give any juice, what things can cause this apart from the fuel relay (that's the one beneath the big red one right?) and the fuse (which seems to be ok)

all info welcome!

Also is it bad to just have a + wire from the battery to it for the time being? (the earth works ok)

Edited by vampire222 on Friday 6th July 19:26

I already changed the fuel relay (the middle one, below the red big relay) with a new spare bosch AFU2913L i had lying around and no difference....

Edited by vampire222 on Friday 6th July 19:29

[ralph350i]

vampire222 said:

Hi guys, i've got my 350i running by wiring the + directly to the fuel pump from my battery....

The one at the fuel pump doesnt give any juice, what things can cause this apart from the fuel relay (that's the one beneath the big red one right?) and the fuse (which seems to be ok)

all info welcome!

Also is it bad to just have a + wire from the battery to it for the time being? (the earth works ok)

Edited by vampire222 on Friday 6th July 19:26

I already changed the fuel relay (the middle one, below the red big relay) with a new spare bosch AFU2913L i had lying around and no difference....

Edited by vampire222 on Friday 6th July 19:29

Hi
Strange one that, the fuel relay wiring is made up off the yellow wire ( direct feed to pump) and a white wire in the same block that sends power to the yellow wire, the white wire then leads to the fuse board where it gets its power, maybe try a link wire between the 2 which would tell you the fuel relay maybe at fault? hope that helps

[Wedg1e]

I hear some installations have a big sod-off resistor in the fuel pump feed wire somewhere, dunno where on a wedge 'cos I've never seen one. If that went pop or had cruddy connections you'd seee those symptoms.
The only risk with rigging bits of wire direct to the battery is that something gets trapped or chafed, or the pump develops a short which will pull tons of current from the battery, fry the insulation and potentially leave your car a smoking ruin. Apart from that, what could possibly go wrong? At the very least, bang a 20A fuse in your bypass wire (near the battery end, obviously).

[vampire222]

Wedg1e said:

At the very least, bang a 20A fuse in your bypass wire (near the battery end, obviously).

Yeah i'm gonna do that first thing ofcourse.

[ralph350i]

[quote=Wedg1e]I hear some installations have a big sod-off resistor in the fuel pump feed wire somewhere, dunno where on a wedge 'cos I've never seen one. If that went pop or had cruddy connections you'd seee those symptoms.


Its located beside the fuel pump

[Wedg1e]

ralph350i]edg1e said:

I hear some installations have a big sod-off resistor in the fuel pump feed wire somewhere, dunno where on a wedge 'cos I've never seen one. If that went pop or had cruddy connections you'd seee those symptoms.


Its located beside the fuel pump

Of course, silly me, why didn't I think of that. I presumed that being a TVR it'd have been fitted second orifice from the left, under the nearside headlamp, beside the wangleflange.

[ralph350i]

Wedg1e said:

Of course, silly me, why didn't I think of that. I presumed that being a TVR it'd have been fitted second orifice from the left, under the nearside headlamp, beside the wangleflange.

Well if was my car it probably is lol

[rev-erend]

On the engine bulk head is an inertial switch - which cuts the power to the fuel pump. I had mine in the up position after I filled up with fuel (missed the ferry to France as a result). Its a 2 inch square box on the engine bulkhead. Push the knob on the top down. Hope it is this..