Trailing arm bush and pin replacement
Discussion
okay chaps...gonna do it.
Sure some of you already have, so any advice would be great.
Took a peep tonight and (liberally) sprayed with WD40.
Cant figure ot the nut size as 23mm is the largest i have...and its bigger (probably old money 1"+ perhaps)
Sequence advice, sizes etc would be a help.
Will be buying from RT unless anyone knows otherwise.
Cheers comrades
Gavlaar
Sure some of you already have, so any advice would be great.
Took a peep tonight and (liberally) sprayed with WD40.
Cant figure ot the nut size as 23mm is the largest i have...and its bigger (probably old money 1"+ perhaps)
Sequence advice, sizes etc would be a help.
Will be buying from RT unless anyone knows otherwise.
Cheers comrades
Gavlaar
It's fairly straightforward.
Count the spacer washers off and back on again to maintain the toe-in angle.
Only tighten up the back-of-bung nut with the weight of the car on the wheel (you can assemble it loose of course).
If you have to take off the whole assembly leave the hub alone and take off at the diff and bottom link.
Keep the old pin - useful as a clutch centering tool ;^)
Count the spacer washers off and back on again to maintain the toe-in angle.
Only tighten up the back-of-bung nut with the weight of the car on the wheel (you can assemble it loose of course).
If you have to take off the whole assembly leave the hub alone and take off at the diff and bottom link.
Keep the old pin - useful as a clutch centering tool ;^)
If you are changing the pins make sure you change both sides and buy new bushes/mounts as well, They are around 50 sobs a side for pin & mount..I cant help with the size of the nut im affraid but richard thorpe should know...If not i will ask dan taylor as he did mine...It took 4 1/2 hours though as one of my pins were bent..I just had a look through the bible but it doesnt really give a good graphical explanation or i would email the drawings to you..Not sure if you can do it on axle stands as you have to drop the rear suspension down?...Ziga
ChimpofDarkness said:
Someone must know how big your Wedgie nuts are 
Anyone?
I like my wedge have two different sized nuts...Anyone?
I just phoned RT as dan taylor couldnt remember and they said that the pin end is M12 with a 1.5mm thread and the other end is an M16 with a 2mm thread..Hope this answers your question mate...cheers...Ziga
PS: I think an M16 is a 24mm spanner?
Edited by mrzigazaga on Friday 3rd August 14:02
mrzigazaga said:
I like my wedge have two different sized nuts...
I just phoned RT as dan taylor couldnt remember and they said that the pin end is M12 with a 1.5mm thread and the other end is an M16 with a 2mm thread..Hope this answers your question mate...cheers...Ziga
PS: I think an M16 is a 24mm spanner?
Cheers Zig I just phoned RT as dan taylor couldnt remember and they said that the pin end is M12 with a 1.5mm thread and the other end is an M16 with a 2mm thread..Hope this answers your question mate...cheers...Ziga
PS: I think an M16 is a 24mm spanner?
Edited by mrzigazaga on Friday 3rd August 14:02
Well, got one side done today
Bloody heck.
Luckily it was on a ramp and my mate did most of it.
The tools of a mechanic are required....not of a hobbyiest like me....i would have been lost.
The pin did NOT want to seperate from the trailing arm AT ALL !!!
In the end the arm was removed and heat applied !!! The old bush was trashed (to say the least) and we took it off removing the hub nut etc (scary)
Yhe car still seems to have the camber, so i think i will put the shims in (was hoping bush/pin replacement would take care of it).
I was surprised at how simple a system it all is actually, and contributed plenty....but watched and learned a lot more.
I will do the otherside as a matter of course, but already, she handles better, and a lot of the steering wheel shake at 60 is gone.
Gavlaar
Bloody heck.
Luckily it was on a ramp and my mate did most of it.
The tools of a mechanic are required....not of a hobbyiest like me....i would have been lost.
The pin did NOT want to seperate from the trailing arm AT ALL !!!
In the end the arm was removed and heat applied !!! The old bush was trashed (to say the least) and we took it off removing the hub nut etc (scary)
Yhe car still seems to have the camber, so i think i will put the shims in (was hoping bush/pin replacement would take care of it).
I was surprised at how simple a system it all is actually, and contributed plenty....but watched and learned a lot more.
I will do the otherside as a matter of course, but already, she handles better, and a lot of the steering wheel shake at 60 is gone.
Gavlaar
Shimmed yesterday moaning off axle stands.....
and it has done the job !!
All by myself (big boy).
Nuts came off okay, eight shims added (best estimate for 2deg correction) and off i went !!
Handling vastly improved and shake at steering wheel greatly reduced too.
Think i can return to WIM and have alignment and tracking completed so that should do it !!
Wey hey
and it has done the job !!
All by myself (big boy).
Nuts came off okay, eight shims added (best estimate for 2deg correction) and off i went !!
Handling vastly improved and shake at steering wheel greatly reduced too.
Think i can return to WIM and have alignment and tracking completed so that should do it !!
Wey hey
Thats good mate..Here are the wheel alignment settings for the wedge..I think i gave them to you before but just incase you lost them...Ziga
The tracking should be set at 3.2mm toe-in +/- 1.5mm
Caster: 3.5 - 4.0 deg. pos.
Camber (F) 1.0 deg. neg.
Camber (R) 1.0 - 1.5 deg. neg.
Toe (in) (F) 0.50 deg.
Toe (in) (R) 2MM - don't know why MM not deg!
2mm on 15inch rims = 0.30 degrees = 18 minutes
2mm on 17inch rims = 0.27 degrees = 16 minutes
Either way it's just a smidge toe in.
15 inch rims 3.2mm toe gives 0.24 degrees wheel to vehicle center-line or 0.48 degrees wheel to wheel.
14 inch rims 3.2mm toe gives 0.26 degrees wheel to vehicle center-line or 0.52 degrees wheel to wheel.
For the front
toe is 3.2 +/- 1.5mm
camber is 0 +/- 1.2 degres (not adjustable anyway is it?)
caster is 31.2 +/- 0.5 degrees
KPI 6 degrees (Not sure what this is?
For the rear
toe is 4.5mm
camber is 0.5 +/- 0.5 degrees (this seems small as the wheels have a visible camber)
The tracking should be set at 3.2mm toe-in +/- 1.5mm
Caster: 3.5 - 4.0 deg. pos.
Camber (F) 1.0 deg. neg.
Camber (R) 1.0 - 1.5 deg. neg.
Toe (in) (F) 0.50 deg.
Toe (in) (R) 2MM - don't know why MM not deg!
2mm on 15inch rims = 0.30 degrees = 18 minutes
2mm on 17inch rims = 0.27 degrees = 16 minutes
Either way it's just a smidge toe in.
15 inch rims 3.2mm toe gives 0.24 degrees wheel to vehicle center-line or 0.48 degrees wheel to wheel.
14 inch rims 3.2mm toe gives 0.26 degrees wheel to vehicle center-line or 0.52 degrees wheel to wheel.
For the front
toe is 3.2 +/- 1.5mm
camber is 0 +/- 1.2 degres (not adjustable anyway is it?)
caster is 31.2 +/- 0.5 degrees
KPI 6 degrees (Not sure what this is?
For the rear
toe is 4.5mm
camber is 0.5 +/- 0.5 degrees (this seems small as the wheels have a visible camber)
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