Ball Joints n Stuff
Discussion
I've got a 400SE. 1991 regd..
What's the front end suspension made of.. MK4 Cortina and MK2 Granada.
The upper and lower ball joints, what are they from. Tina or Granny.. Also track rod ends, what they from..
Cortina, Triumph or Toyota Supra..
The reason I ask, the steering felt strange last weekend. I was out yesterday and the steering still ain't tickety boo... No pulling, just a strange sensation when turning.. Not as smooth as it was a month or so ago..
So if the mechanic says its ball joints or trackrod ends I'd like to say what they're from so he can go ahead and order.. I've changed the power steering fluid but it's not changed the feel.. So time to give it to someone who knows what's what..!!
It needs to be ready for the RNR
Si
What's the front end suspension made of.. MK4 Cortina and MK2 Granada.
The upper and lower ball joints, what are they from. Tina or Granny.. Also track rod ends, what they from..
Cortina, Triumph or Toyota Supra..
The reason I ask, the steering felt strange last weekend. I was out yesterday and the steering still ain't tickety boo... No pulling, just a strange sensation when turning.. Not as smooth as it was a month or so ago..
So if the mechanic says its ball joints or trackrod ends I'd like to say what they're from so he can go ahead and order.. I've changed the power steering fluid but it's not changed the feel.. So time to give it to someone who knows what's what..!!
It needs to be ready for the RNR
Si
My top ball joints are in need of replacing..I believe that the front suspension is cortina MK4-5 with granada hubs..Your steering rack is probably a TVR engineered "Supra" rack..Not toyota..Although im not sure what track rod ends fit?...sorry...ziga
Ball joints;
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=c...
Ball joints;
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=c...
Edited by mrzigazaga on Sunday 12th August 18:24
simboy1973 said:
I've got a 400SE. 1991 regd..
What's the front end suspension made of.. MK4 Cortina and MK2 Granada.
The upper and lower ball joints, what are they from. Tina or Granny.. Also track rod ends, what they from..
Cortina, Triumph or Toyota Supra..
The reason I ask, the steering felt strange last weekend. I was out yesterday and the steering still ain't tickety boo... No pulling, just a strange sensation when turning.. Not as smooth as it was a month or so ago..
So if the mechanic says its ball joints or trackrod ends I'd like to say what they're from so he can go ahead and order.. I've changed the power steering fluid but it's not changed the feel.. So time to give it to someone who knows what's what..!!
It needs to be ready for the RNR
Si
What's the front end suspension made of.. MK4 Cortina and MK2 Granada.
The upper and lower ball joints, what are they from. Tina or Granny.. Also track rod ends, what they from..
Cortina, Triumph or Toyota Supra..
The reason I ask, the steering felt strange last weekend. I was out yesterday and the steering still ain't tickety boo... No pulling, just a strange sensation when turning.. Not as smooth as it was a month or so ago..
So if the mechanic says its ball joints or trackrod ends I'd like to say what they're from so he can go ahead and order.. I've changed the power steering fluid but it's not changed the feel.. So time to give it to someone who knows what's what..!!
It needs to be ready for the RNR
Si
THERE ARE NO TOYOTA PARTS ON A WEDGE.Balljoints are Mk 2 Grandad. Track rod ends are Cortina or Granada, either will fit.
'Strange feel' can also be down to the lower arm bush collapsing, anti-roll bar bush clamps popping off or wheel nuts not done up properly.
The wedge bible says the suspension inc ball joints r Tina MK4/5. Page 149
Hubs are MK2 Grannies.
They fitted Tina, TR7 and TOYOTA Supra racks over the years but it doesn't say which ones to what years.. I was surprised to read Toyota too. Page 174 makes reference to Supra/TVR and Toyota, under both racks and pumps.. Hence the original question re track rod ends..
But I though I'd ask..
Hubs are MK2 Grannies.
They fitted Tina, TR7 and TOYOTA Supra racks over the years but it doesn't say which ones to what years.. I was surprised to read Toyota too. Page 174 makes reference to Supra/TVR and Toyota, under both racks and pumps.. Hence the original question re track rod ends..
But I though I'd ask..
mrzigazaga said:
Hi Ian..I have ordered cortina Mk4-5 top ball joints?..Are you saying they wont fit?...They look the same as the granny ones?..Ziga
Doh! Sorry, should have said Cortina NOT Granada. The uprights are Granada. The balljoints do look the same but the hole spacings are different... you could make them fit if you had to but parts aren't in that short supply yet.simboy1973 said:
The wedge bible says the suspension inc ball joints r Tina MK4/5. Page 149
Hubs are MK2 Grannies.
They fitted Tina, TR7 and TOYOTA Supra racks over the years but it doesn't say which ones to what years.. I was surprised to read Toyota too. Page 174 makes reference to Supra/TVR and Toyota, under both racks and pumps.. Hence the original question re track rod ends..
But I though I'd ask..
I've just checked and you're correct, it does say that: however that flies in the face of what has been discussed here many times over the years which is that Supra was the MAKER of the rack, not that it was FROM a Toyota. I'm fairly sure even Steve Heath has said that as well which would imply his own book is wrong... Hubs are MK2 Grannies.
They fitted Tina, TR7 and TOYOTA Supra racks over the years but it doesn't say which ones to what years.. I was surprised to read Toyota too. Page 174 makes reference to Supra/TVR and Toyota, under both racks and pumps.. Hence the original question re track rod ends..
But I though I'd ask..

That said, he gives confusing information under PAS pumps because whilst the V6 cars DID use a Ford pump, the V8s used a Hobourn-Eaton as used on the Montego et al.
All we need is for someone with a non-Cortina rack to take a look at whatever casting marks are on it, that would give a clue as to its origin

Cortina racks have a CamGears logo on the left-hand end casting.
The same pump was made with different length filler necks; it's fair to assume the internals were as near as dammit the same. On my 390 it's a long-neck version mounted high-up. I have an ex-Montego spare and it's identical but the neck is shorter.
Incidentally, I just did a Google Images search for Toyota Supra Steeering Rack and not one of them looks like the 'Supra/TVR' drawing on p.176 of SH's book.
Incidentally, I just did a Google Images search for Toyota Supra Steeering Rack and not one of them looks like the 'Supra/TVR' drawing on p.176 of SH's book.
simboy1973 said:
Oh. Now you put the cat amongst the pigeons.. No, never thought of the steering UJ's.. Looks like a fidly job.. Go on, are the UJ's Cortina or TIV or something else..
Where me bible..
Si
The problem is that TVR wanted to mate a Triumph part to a Ford one, which was never going to end well Where me bible..
Si

Then once they'd sorted that, they decided it'd be a right laugh to switch to a Rover part and a Ford part and the can of worms split at the seams.
THEN! Just for the hell of it they thought a reeeeally good wheeze would be to have a Ford part and another Ford part.... oh. Hang on. That's a bit simple then...
Anyway, assuming you have a TR7 or SD1 column and a Ford/ Camgears rack, then yes, the column UJs are a bit special. Our own Steve Evans (he of Cosworth Tasmin 200 fame) racked no end of brain cells and tried literally every old British car ever built but failed to find a direct replacement... and this was nearly 10 years ago so I doubt anything's changed.
Either consult a 'specialist' then bend over and take it, or find a bearing supplier who can sell you just the cruciform joint and rebuild it yourself.
Sounds like you helped with the parts bin back in the day when TIV's were being assembled.
Well, Friday I'll drop it off and get ma man to check the front end and steering colum over..
Is this why we like TVR's, whether it's an S, Wedge or newer.. The challenge finding bits and keeping them on the road. Mind, some times I get to the end of my tether but then I start it...
Bloody cars... I'd be a rich man if I didn't like them so much..
Si
Well, Friday I'll drop it off and get ma man to check the front end and steering colum over..
Is this why we like TVR's, whether it's an S, Wedge or newer.. The challenge finding bits and keeping them on the road. Mind, some times I get to the end of my tether but then I start it...
Bloody cars... I'd be a rich man if I didn't like them so much..
Si
you can still get uj's from david gerald TVR, i just bought 2, about £38 for bottom and £56 with postage and vat your looking at around £110.
common failing on TVR's due to all the s
t they get covered in from wheels and although they look fine you'll be surprised in the difference new ones make. cheapest option is to clean and spray grease on them and see if it makes any difference.
not too bad to do if you spray them with some wd40 now by the time parts turn up it'll be easier to remove them, access is not to bad once drivers wheel is removed, tap a screw driver between knuckle to spread it a little (remove bolt first!) and it should come off. top one is easier if you've got the triangle shape one, its best to undo bottom joint on top of rack and then top triangle joint, remove whole shaft from car and swap uj's over on bench. also keep the uj's in same length and position on shafts as the angle is quite tight, mine caught slightly when i first refitted and had to adjust them slightly. it only took an hour so not as bad as it sounds.
p.s mark the position on bottom with tipex and don't move steering wheel or you'll end up with crocked steering wheel and you'll have to do it again and move the bottom uj round on the splines...........not that i do something like that
common failing on TVR's due to all the s
t they get covered in from wheels and although they look fine you'll be surprised in the difference new ones make. cheapest option is to clean and spray grease on them and see if it makes any difference.not too bad to do if you spray them with some wd40 now by the time parts turn up it'll be easier to remove them, access is not to bad once drivers wheel is removed, tap a screw driver between knuckle to spread it a little (remove bolt first!) and it should come off. top one is easier if you've got the triangle shape one, its best to undo bottom joint on top of rack and then top triangle joint, remove whole shaft from car and swap uj's over on bench. also keep the uj's in same length and position on shafts as the angle is quite tight, mine caught slightly when i first refitted and had to adjust them slightly. it only took an hour so not as bad as it sounds.
p.s mark the position on bottom with tipex and don't move steering wheel or you'll end up with crocked steering wheel and you'll have to do it again and move the bottom uj round on the splines...........not that i do something like that

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