I want to race it, come on guys, what do you think?
Discussion
I really want to get a wedge racer, and preferably before next years race season!
Now, Ive commited to buying a 3000M and ive got the Blue 350 2+2 FHC, but the silver 2+2 FHC is now winking at me as a potential racing donor!
Im thinking I can keep the car parts that I remove and return them back to original once Ive done my seasons racing.
What do you think?
Im running out of space and need a plan!
Stu
Now, Ive commited to buying a 3000M and ive got the Blue 350 2+2 FHC, but the silver 2+2 FHC is now winking at me as a potential racing donor!
Im thinking I can keep the car parts that I remove and return them back to original once Ive done my seasons racing.
What do you think?
Im running out of space and need a plan!
Stu
Hi hallsie,
i bought mine as a racer. not raced it yet but will be doing so next season as well. have you got a license?
My interior is completely stripped. cage fitted, gaz shocks, rewired, exhaust, fire extinguisher, seats, harness, suit and lid, bonnet catches.
I'm going to restore mine in 2014. Have a look at youtube ...tvrmarcus1875 for a couple of small vids of my wedge to give you an idea. good luck.
i bought mine as a racer. not raced it yet but will be doing so next season as well. have you got a license?
My interior is completely stripped. cage fitted, gaz shocks, rewired, exhaust, fire extinguisher, seats, harness, suit and lid, bonnet catches.
I'm going to restore mine in 2014. Have a look at youtube ...tvrmarcus1875 for a couple of small vids of my wedge to give you an idea. good luck.
Stu, Don't know if this is any help or maybe an option but PeteSBC, on here, has 3 for sale...
350SE ex Greenstar(Micky Holden) Now running 4.6 RV8 £8500 (got a race engine already fitted)
Tasmin race car rolling chassis fully caged with Comp MO's £600 (the tyres and wheels alone are worth that!)
Tasmin 2.9 Cosworth class C. SEAC front end needs wiring and exhaust finishing. Rebuilt 4 speed new Quaife Diff £3000 (a good cheap option)
Its definitely cheaper to buy a racer than make one.....
For a basic mildly competetive Tasmin racer you'll need to:
1. Strip out all the interior.
2. Fit a drivers seat sub frame and fit a race seat
3. Modify suspension points to allow more adjustment to camber, caster, toe etc
4. Fit coil overs
5. Fit a fire extinguisher
6. Fit a roll cage
7. Fit battery cut out switch
8. Fit anchor points for the 6 point harness
9. Cut off the whole of the front end and fit a one piece light weight one
10. Replace all the glass with poly
11. Fit race type dash
12. Close ratio box
13. 4.01:1 LSD
14. 4 pot front calipers and larger vented discs to the front (The rears are fine)
15. Change all the brake lines
16. fit an oil cooler
17. Send your V8 to John Eales (or your V6 to John Toovey) for spicing up
18. and lots of other stuff...........
In a very short space of time, your well into 5 figures even doing most of the work yourself..
Dave
350SE ex Greenstar(Micky Holden) Now running 4.6 RV8 £8500 (got a race engine already fitted)
Tasmin race car rolling chassis fully caged with Comp MO's £600 (the tyres and wheels alone are worth that!)
Tasmin 2.9 Cosworth class C. SEAC front end needs wiring and exhaust finishing. Rebuilt 4 speed new Quaife Diff £3000 (a good cheap option)
Its definitely cheaper to buy a racer than make one.....
For a basic mildly competetive Tasmin racer you'll need to:
1. Strip out all the interior.
2. Fit a drivers seat sub frame and fit a race seat
3. Modify suspension points to allow more adjustment to camber, caster, toe etc
4. Fit coil overs
5. Fit a fire extinguisher
6. Fit a roll cage
7. Fit battery cut out switch
8. Fit anchor points for the 6 point harness
9. Cut off the whole of the front end and fit a one piece light weight one
10. Replace all the glass with poly
11. Fit race type dash
12. Close ratio box
13. 4.01:1 LSD
14. 4 pot front calipers and larger vented discs to the front (The rears are fine)
15. Change all the brake lines
16. fit an oil cooler
17. Send your V8 to John Eales (or your V6 to John Toovey) for spicing up
18. and lots of other stuff...........
In a very short space of time, your well into 5 figures even doing most of the work yourself..
Dave
NTEL said:
Stu, Don't know if this is any help or maybe an option but PeteSBC, on here, has 3 for sale...
350SE ex Greenstar(Micky Holden) Now running 4.6 RV8 £8500 (got a race engine already fitted)
Tasmin race car rolling chassis fully caged with Comp MO's £600 (the tyres and wheels alone are worth that!)
Tasmin 2.9 Cosworth class C. SEAC front end needs wiring and exhaust finishing. Rebuilt 4 speed new Quaife Diff £3000 (a good cheap option)
Its definitely cheaper to buy a racer than make one.....
For a basic mildly competetive Tasmin racer you'll need to:
1. Strip out all the interior.
2. Fit a drivers seat sub frame and fit a race seat
3. Modify suspension points to allow more adjustment to camber, caster, toe etc
4. Fit coil overs
5. Fit a fire extinguisher
6. Fit a roll cage
7. Fit battery cut out switch
8. Fit anchor points for the 6 point harness
9. Cut off the whole of the front end and fit a one piece light weight one
10. Replace all the glass with poly
11. Fit race type dash
12. Close ratio box
13. 4.01:1 LSD
14. 4 pot front calipers and larger vented discs to the front (The rears are fine)
15. Change all the brake lines
16. fit an oil cooler
17. Send your V8 to John Eales (or your V6 to John Toovey) for spicing up
18. and lots of other stuff...........
In a very short space of time, your well into 5 figures even doing most of the work yourself..
Dave
OOOOOOOOOOOOOK!!350SE ex Greenstar(Micky Holden) Now running 4.6 RV8 £8500 (got a race engine already fitted)
Tasmin race car rolling chassis fully caged with Comp MO's £600 (the tyres and wheels alone are worth that!)
Tasmin 2.9 Cosworth class C. SEAC front end needs wiring and exhaust finishing. Rebuilt 4 speed new Quaife Diff £3000 (a good cheap option)
Its definitely cheaper to buy a racer than make one.....
For a basic mildly competetive Tasmin racer you'll need to:
1. Strip out all the interior.
2. Fit a drivers seat sub frame and fit a race seat
3. Modify suspension points to allow more adjustment to camber, caster, toe etc
4. Fit coil overs
5. Fit a fire extinguisher
6. Fit a roll cage
7. Fit battery cut out switch
8. Fit anchor points for the 6 point harness
9. Cut off the whole of the front end and fit a one piece light weight one
10. Replace all the glass with poly
11. Fit race type dash
12. Close ratio box
13. 4.01:1 LSD
14. 4 pot front calipers and larger vented discs to the front (The rears are fine)
15. Change all the brake lines
16. fit an oil cooler
17. Send your V8 to John Eales (or your V6 to John Toovey) for spicing up
18. and lots of other stuff...........
In a very short space of time, your well into 5 figures even doing most of the work yourself..
Dave
Thanks Dave,
perhaps I need to rethink this then!
the 3K option sounds like the best option there, leaves me a bit to play with!
Thanks for the info
Stu
marcus1875 said:
Hi hallsie,
i bought mine as a racer. not raced it yet but will be doing so next season as well. have you got a license?
My interior is completely stripped. cage fitted, gaz shocks, rewired, exhaust, fire extinguisher, seats, harness, suit and lid, bonnet catches.
I'm going to restore mine in 2014. Have a look at youtube ...tvrmarcus1875 for a couple of small vids of my wedge to give you an idea. good luck.
Marcus, if your wanting to do any circuit racing you'll have to get a full roll cage installed. The one shown on the video will do for hillclimbing or sprints but nothing else.i bought mine as a racer. not raced it yet but will be doing so next season as well. have you got a license?
My interior is completely stripped. cage fitted, gaz shocks, rewired, exhaust, fire extinguisher, seats, harness, suit and lid, bonnet catches.
I'm going to restore mine in 2014. Have a look at youtube ...tvrmarcus1875 for a couple of small vids of my wedge to give you an idea. good luck.
hallsie said:
OOOOOOOOOOOOOK!!
Thanks Dave,
perhaps I need to rethink this then!
the 3K option sounds like the best option there, leaves me a bit to play with!
Thanks for the info
Stu
OOOOOrrrrr if you just want to go out and have some fun....Thanks Dave,
perhaps I need to rethink this then!
the 3K option sounds like the best option there, leaves me a bit to play with!
Thanks for the info
Stu
1. Strip out all the interior.
2. Fit a drivers seat sub frame and fit a race seat
3. Fit a fire extinguisher
4. Fit a roll cage
5. Fit battery cut out switch
6. Fit anchor points for the 6 point harness
7. 4 pot front calipers and larger vented discs to the front (The rears are fine)
8. Change all the brake lines
9. fit an oil cooler
Your still looking at about 5K
mrzigazaga said:
Its probably cheaper to have a trackday!..Just keep away from the gravel....
...
...
...
Or you could always enter this class...The only criteria you need is a decent pair of pyjamas..
Mr Hallsie,.........Or you could always enter this class...The only criteria you need is a decent pair of pyjamas..
Someone mentioned Sprinting and Speed hillclimbing, have you considered it with TVR Speed Championship?? You'll get a better idea if you want wheel to wheel or against the stop-watch??
In a season 24 different venues with as many as 25+ other TVRs?? Costs for an event from £85 to £160, range from Yorkshire to Brands (near you this Sat??) to Pembrey to Anglesey.
You'll need a Non-Race Nat B license (£35) and decide if you want List 1A or 1B tyres, one of the best handicap systems is used. Plus you need TVRCC membership and sign-on with Steve Cox.
More info on Yahoo web page: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/TVR_Speed_Cham...
This weekend is Brands Hatch for Sprint and Sunday for speed hillclimb at Shelshley Walsh??
Cheers
Trev
/\ /\ /\/\ /\
What He said! I did a season back in 2007 when I first decided I wanted to dip my toe into motorsport. Really enjoyed it and it wasn't too expensive to do. Good bunch of like minded lads too.
I was then invited to do a round in the Dunlop TVR Tuscan Challenge. Bad move!!!!!!!!! Now I'm hooked on circuit racing and not missed a single race since June 2008! The wedge has now gone and I drive a class B Tuscan. I'm skint but its all worth it when the red lights go out!!
What He said! I did a season back in 2007 when I first decided I wanted to dip my toe into motorsport. Really enjoyed it and it wasn't too expensive to do. Good bunch of like minded lads too.
I was then invited to do a round in the Dunlop TVR Tuscan Challenge. Bad move!!!!!!!!! Now I'm hooked on circuit racing and not missed a single race since June 2008! The wedge has now gone and I drive a class B Tuscan. I'm skint but its all worth it when the red lights go out!!
I think most has already been said.
It's not cost effective to convert or road car, or even convert a racer.
The more money you can send on a complete or completed car, the less money your spend in the long run.
I've spent maybe 12k on my Tasmin racer, and it still needs a spray job.
Dave (NTEL) spent more money on his project Tuscan rebuild then I'm sure he could have bought a completed car for (if there was one about) I'm sure Tim paid less for a slightly faster car that was ready to roll.
Also your going to need to add a bucket load of time sorting problems and testing.
Not sure on your track day experience, as you may just want to do some or some more, and get your licence sorted, and then looking getting a car, or do some track days and hill climbs, and see what you prefer.
There's quite a few Tasmin Racers about in various states of finish, so you be best to get the best one you can afford.
Just remember your need a good tow car/var and trailer, and somewhere to keep it all. this can be the biggest head ache, that's one big advantage with hill climb you can do it in a road car.
be good to get some more new blood in the series though.
It's not cost effective to convert or road car, or even convert a racer.
The more money you can send on a complete or completed car, the less money your spend in the long run.
I've spent maybe 12k on my Tasmin racer, and it still needs a spray job.
Dave (NTEL) spent more money on his project Tuscan rebuild then I'm sure he could have bought a completed car for (if there was one about) I'm sure Tim paid less for a slightly faster car that was ready to roll.
Also your going to need to add a bucket load of time sorting problems and testing.
Not sure on your track day experience, as you may just want to do some or some more, and get your licence sorted, and then looking getting a car, or do some track days and hill climbs, and see what you prefer.
There's quite a few Tasmin Racers about in various states of finish, so you be best to get the best one you can afford.
Just remember your need a good tow car/var and trailer, and somewhere to keep it all. this can be the biggest head ache, that's one big advantage with hill climb you can do it in a road car.
be good to get some more new blood in the series though.
TVR_owner said:
prep and race the M with an eye on HSCC as well as some of the other series
When built it will have some reasonable value.
Go the wedge route and its lost cash or an uncompetitive car.
Have to disagree a little on that.When built it will have some reasonable value.
Go the wedge route and its lost cash or an uncompetitive car.
You can buy a complete ready to run, wedge and be just as competitive as a M, plus if you buy a sorted car, you be able to sell it again what you paid, Keith and Tim both did this and even made money on the cars I think.
Long term a M maybe better as you can do more series, but as said to sort your M will cost a lot of money a lot of which will be wasted.
hallsie said:
TVR_owner said:
prep and race the M with an eye on HSCC as well as some of the other series
When built it will have some reasonable value.
Go the wedge route and its lost cash or an uncompetitive car.
When built it will have some reasonable value.
Go the wedge route and its lost cash or an uncompetitive car.
go on, I dare ya 
NTEL said:
hallsie said:
TVR_owner said:
prep and race the M with an eye on HSCC as well as some of the other series
When built it will have some reasonable value.
Go the wedge route and its lost cash or an uncompetitive car.
When built it will have some reasonable value.
Go the wedge route and its lost cash or an uncompetitive car.
go on, I dare ya At least Im getting some constructive ideas though!
Keep em coming..
Stu
OK Stu, Ignore the car for a minute and lets weigh up the base costs:
Fire proof suit = £300
Decent Lid = £300
Fireproof underwear = £150
Boots = £100
Gloves = £50
Total = £900.00 to just sit in the car with budget safety gear (if you want a HANS device add £500 and a more expensive helmet)
If you want to race
Go Racing Pack off the MSA= £50
ARDS Test = £280
Medical = £80
Nat B Race licence = £55
Total = £465 for a Nat B licence (not including any instruction or practice)
If you want to hillclimb
Non race licence = £35
OK, so you'll want to trailer the car to the track / hill:
You'll need something that can pull 2 tonnes (£££££ vary)
A trailer (Second hand) £1000.00
You'll need to stay over night if its a weekend event so either camp, hotel, motorhome, or kip in the tow vehicle.(££££ vary)
Fuel for the tow vehicle (££££ vary)
Fuel for the race vehicle (£20 for hill climbing, £100 for circuit racing)
Joining a race club such as BRSCC as a race member £150
Series registration £210.00
Race entry fee £360 - £380 per meeting (hill climb / sprint £90-£160)
Set of Tasmin / M road tyres for sprinting £400
Set of Tasmin / M slicks for racing £800 (can last a season if you are brave)
Set of Tasmin / M wets for racing £800 (will probably never use them but still needed)
Repairs and service
Crash Damage
Spare set of wheels
Blah, blah, blah.........
Oh...... and then there is the car (££££ vary but all of a sudden, the car is the cheap bit of the equation )
Still thinking about racing???????
.....and that's why I'm always broke
Fire proof suit = £300
Decent Lid = £300
Fireproof underwear = £150
Boots = £100
Gloves = £50
Total = £900.00 to just sit in the car with budget safety gear (if you want a HANS device add £500 and a more expensive helmet)
If you want to race
Go Racing Pack off the MSA= £50
ARDS Test = £280
Medical = £80
Nat B Race licence = £55
Total = £465 for a Nat B licence (not including any instruction or practice)
If you want to hillclimb
Non race licence = £35
OK, so you'll want to trailer the car to the track / hill:
You'll need something that can pull 2 tonnes (£££££ vary)
A trailer (Second hand) £1000.00
You'll need to stay over night if its a weekend event so either camp, hotel, motorhome, or kip in the tow vehicle.(££££ vary)
Fuel for the tow vehicle (££££ vary)
Fuel for the race vehicle (£20 for hill climbing, £100 for circuit racing)
Joining a race club such as BRSCC as a race member £150
Series registration £210.00
Race entry fee £360 - £380 per meeting (hill climb / sprint £90-£160)
Set of Tasmin / M road tyres for sprinting £400
Set of Tasmin / M slicks for racing £800 (can last a season if you are brave)
Set of Tasmin / M wets for racing £800 (will probably never use them but still needed)
Repairs and service
Crash Damage
Spare set of wheels
Blah, blah, blah.........
Oh...... and then there is the car (££££ vary but all of a sudden, the car is the cheap bit of the equation
)Still thinking about racing???????
.....and that's why I'm always broke
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