Foxgaurd Immobiliser
Discussion
Hi anyone got one of these in there 350 / 400. I think may be wired to alarm - which I've nearly ripped out 
Anyone know about or have a wiring diagram for them as trying to see which circuit they disable
Seems to be the fuel pump after 10 seconds,
But before I took out alarm could not start the car at all with out the immobiliser key in place, but now will turn over with out the immobiliser key in place
Really want to remove completly and replace with a CAT 2 item, but at worst will rewire to get car running again.
Anyone know about or have a wiring diagram for them as trying to see which circuit they disable
Seems to be the fuel pump after 10 seconds,
But before I took out alarm could not start the car at all with out the immobiliser key in place, but now will turn over with out the immobiliser key in place
Really want to remove completly and replace with a CAT 2 item, but at worst will rewire to get car running again.
Well think I have removed al evidence of imobiliser and alarm
Found out why the central locking did not work - now works
But every time I start the engine if fires but only runs for a couple of seconds. Anyone got any suggestions as to what to look for first ?
Could the ecu be picking up a fault and shutting down the engine ? Seems to do it on both ecus
Found out why the central locking did not work - now works
But every time I start the engine if fires but only runs for a couple of seconds. Anyone got any suggestions as to what to look for first ?
Could the ecu be picking up a fault and shutting down the engine ? Seems to do it on both ecus
Well think I have removed al evidence of imobiliser and alarm
Found out why the central locking did not work - now works
But every time I start the engine if fires but only runs for a couple of seconds. Anyone got any suggestions as to what to look for first ?
Could the ecu be picking up a fault and shutting down the engine ? Seems to do it on both ecus
Found out why the central locking did not work - now works
But every time I start the engine if fires but only runs for a couple of seconds. Anyone got any suggestions as to what to look for first ?
Could the ecu be picking up a fault and shutting down the engine ? Seems to do it on both ecus
No probably there is no connection from the ECU to the pump to keep it switched on. Been there etc. What happens is the pump is energised initially, the engine fires and the ECU should then keep the fuel pump relay energised and running... Except if it is not connected when the engine dies through a lack of fuel.
The fuel pump gets power under two circumstances.
1) when the starter motor is running.
2) when the air flap in the air meter is open i.e. the engine is running.
It sounds as though you may not be getting fuel pump power in case 2. Try holding the flap open with ignition on and can you hear the fuel pump?
There are lots of other things that could give this symptom.
Russ
1) when the starter motor is running.
2) when the air flap in the air meter is open i.e. the engine is running.
It sounds as though you may not be getting fuel pump power in case 2. Try holding the flap open with ignition on and can you hear the fuel pump?
There are lots of other things that could give this symptom.
Russ
Rus / Steve
Yep I can hear the fuel pump cutting in when I open the flap
Tried with the flap held open then started the engine, but still cuts out after a couple of seconds.
Mind you the engine sounds nice and healthy and seems to want to hit 2000 rpm on startup and then die. Did have it running for 3 - 4 secs and revved up to about 4000 and then died as normal. Sounded superb
Yep I can hear the fuel pump cutting in when I open the flap
Tried with the flap held open then started the engine, but still cuts out after a couple of seconds.
Mind you the engine sounds nice and healthy and seems to want to hit 2000 rpm on startup and then die. Did have it running for 3 - 4 secs and revved up to about 4000 and then died as normal. Sounded superb
Given the age of the car and the mention of Foxguard, I thought I might have had a few answers for you, since I was in car security in the early 90s. Alas I can't find any info on a Foxy immobiliser, only their alarm systems, so it may have been a more recent fit.
However, reading from another maker's info that I have, there may be some similarities.
Micro Alarms used to market an immob. that could be used standalone or with an alarm system. In the latter case the immob. was disarmed when the alarm was. If used as a standalone, there were two inputs that would be 'committed' by the installer. We'd connect one to, say, the brake lamp switch and the other to , eg, the washers. So when you got into the car, you turned on the ignition, stood on the brakes and pressed the washer button, and the immob. would switch off allowing the car to start.
All the wiring was black, but if you cut open the cover of the immob. you would find letters printed on the wires adjacent to the plug where they were connected to the PCB. So in theory I could say 'link A and F, B and G' or whatever and away you go. The Micro system had a 5 second delay rather than the 10 you mention.
It may be that now you've removed the alarm system, the immob. is defaulting to standalone mode and expecting some inputs, which of course it's not going to get since they were probably never connected - though you may want to check for wires going to odd places like the cigar lighter, wash/wipe, reverse light switch...
Ian
However, reading from another maker's info that I have, there may be some similarities.
Micro Alarms used to market an immob. that could be used standalone or with an alarm system. In the latter case the immob. was disarmed when the alarm was. If used as a standalone, there were two inputs that would be 'committed' by the installer. We'd connect one to, say, the brake lamp switch and the other to , eg, the washers. So when you got into the car, you turned on the ignition, stood on the brakes and pressed the washer button, and the immob. would switch off allowing the car to start.
All the wiring was black, but if you cut open the cover of the immob. you would find letters printed on the wires adjacent to the plug where they were connected to the PCB. So in theory I could say 'link A and F, B and G' or whatever and away you go. The Micro system had a 5 second delay rather than the 10 you mention.
It may be that now you've removed the alarm system, the immob. is defaulting to standalone mode and expecting some inputs, which of course it's not going to get since they were probably never connected - though you may want to check for wires going to odd places like the cigar lighter, wash/wipe, reverse light switch...
Ian
Thanks for the alarm issue, it now appears the immobilizer is a micro mark (with a bulky key that you need in all the time to disable)tucked away under the dash which following the wires back from the black box only seems to be connected to the ignition switch
Have taken out of loop and connected the original wires back together again
Alarm was not connected before I had this issue but now fixed the central door locking.
Engine is still starting revving to about 2000 rpm and then cutting out
Will immeadiatly start on turning the key again. So I'm a bit confused now
I'm assuming if timing was out, would not start at all (when running sounds sweet), but will check anyway
There appears to be fuel feeding the injection system so possibly an electical fault on the LT side ?
Thanks for the alarm issue, it now appears the immobilizer is a micro mark (with a bulky key that you need in all the time to disable)tucked away under the dash which following the wires back from the black box only seems to be connected to the ignition switch
Have taken out of loop and connected the original wires back together again
Alarm was not connected before I had this issue but now fixed the central door locking.
Engine is still starting revving to about 2000 rpm and then cutting out
Will immeadiatly start on turning the key again. So I'm a bit confused now
I'm assuming if timing was out, would not start at all (when running sounds sweet), but will check anyway
There appears to be fuel feeding the injection system so possibly an electical fault on the LT side ?
Checked everything out and it appears to be running now until I switch it of. But now trying to sort out distributor position / timing as the one that came with the 450 is slightly different to my original one, so making it award to position and then move to adujst timing
May have to refit the older unit that has more play in it than Andrew Lloyd Webber
Boy is it loud had it running against the 350 (well trying to jump it ) and a guy up the road thinks I've started a classic Norton up as well
Oil presure seems strange as keep on having to prime it to get the pressure back up, maybe cause keep leaving a couple of days without having fully run it properly. Well I hope thats the reason as I don't want to do this again this year !!
May have to refit the older unit that has more play in it than Andrew Lloyd Webber
Boy is it loud had it running against the 350 (well trying to jump it ) and a guy up the road thinks I've started a classic Norton up as well
Oil presure seems strange as keep on having to prime it to get the pressure back up, maybe cause keep leaving a couple of days without having fully run it properly. Well I hope thats the reason as I don't want to do this again this year !!
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