after 7 years it was so close!
Discussion
MOT failed on Friday due to my lights deciding that they will now no longer select dipped beam (well if we ignore the fact it needed new number plates and a brake light bulb)! I get a flicker as i play with the switches but no change to dipped lights 
They did last time i checked but it's been away for a new exhaust fitting and a few bits doing and now it doesn't. Time to drop the steering wheel again and tinker with that massive mess of wires so i can get it back down the MOT station.
Any hidden reasons why they might fail that people have come across before or has something just gone wrong in the switch gear?
They did last time i checked but it's been away for a new exhaust fitting and a few bits doing and now it doesn't.
Time to drop the steering wheel again and tinker with that massive mess of wires so i can get it back down the MOT station. Any hidden reasons why they might fail that people have come across before or has something just gone wrong in the switch gear?
Hi mate...when mine were playing up the main beam wouldnt come on and i found that the wires from the drivers side were the culprit..I gave them a bit of a wiggle and they worked again..I checked all the connections and cleaned them..Replaced any fittings that looked iffy, So far so good but i know sooner or later they will need a proper run of new wire..Wah...Ziga
Just had a thought, it could be the switch..Do you have a spare to test with?..
Just had a thought, it could be the switch..Do you have a spare to test with?..
Edited by mrzigazaga on Monday 12th November 17:57
i had a spare which i drove over (garage is too small, if at the side of the car you don't have room to bend over and look for things!).
I've had the column out before and fiddled/replaced a lot of the connections already and cleaned the connectors. The switch should sit in dipped setting but i now have main beam for all three positions.
I'll have a check of the connections in the pods while i have my mits in there lifting them up
I've had the column out before and fiddled/replaced a lot of the connections already and cleaned the connectors. The switch should sit in dipped setting but i now have main beam for all three positions.
I'll have a check of the connections in the pods while i have my mits in there lifting them up
I have had brand new headlight switches that have failed as the copper contacts have become loose..If you remove the switch and look on the underneath there will be a section where you can see the two copper contacts..They should both be touching when in the off position..The left hand one will lift on sidelight position and they will both be lifted on main beam..Clean them carefully if they are operating properly..It may help..Ziga
I've had trouble with headlamp and heater switch too (they are mechanically the same ) and the headlamp one was actually badly burned on the contacts.
You can get the switch apart quite easily with a bit of care, check for broken/loose bits and then clean (a bit of wet-n-dry on the contacts) and reassemble it, and with a bit of luck it may fix the problem. I bent the contact strips slightly on mine to make sure they had good contact.
It could also be a relay - the early wedges had a relay for both dip and main beam, I think that's the same on later wedges too.
NB> Careful ! the switch has little springs and pins in it, which can fly out....
You can get the switch apart quite easily with a bit of care, check for broken/loose bits and then clean (a bit of wet-n-dry on the contacts) and reassemble it, and with a bit of luck it may fix the problem. I bent the contact strips slightly on mine to make sure they had good contact.
It could also be a relay - the early wedges had a relay for both dip and main beam, I think that's the same on later wedges too.
NB> Careful ! the switch has little springs and pins in it, which can fly out....
Edited by RCK974X on Monday 12th November 19:30
Are the main beam lights working on both lights and do the lights flash when you pull the stalk? If the lights work on main beam then its not the light dash 2 position switch. Take the light out of the pod and check for voltage on the dipped feed to the bulb. If not then trace the wires back through the loom. In many cases it is bad connections down by the pods or the main earth return on the passenger side front suspension mount. Be systematic and you will find the fault. The other area to look at is at the various connection blocks down by the pods the cable wire turns black due to age and weather and introduce high resistances, the best way is to chop out the bad wire and replace. Finally assume that you have checked and tested the fuses...?
Chris
Chris
I had a similar problem and traced the fault to the main loom connector behind the steering column. It links up the electrics from the switches & gagues into the main loom. A few jiggles with a rogue connector did the trick. Invariably with our cars it's going to be a dodgy connection. Whenever I tinker with something electrical I end up knocking something else out and have to retrace what I did before to find the fault.
Best of lot was pressing the brake pedal only to see the pods pop up!!!!! Traced to a loose earth of course!!!
Best of lot was pressing the brake pedal only to see the pods pop up!!!!! Traced to a loose earth of course!!!
Mine is an all black loom in a 2.8
I have to say the standard of the wiring loom finish wasn't very good in the first place, with crimped connectors not properly done, and what appears to be nothing more than insulation tape over some joins (are they original ? I think so, but can't be sure).
Plus on the 2.8 engine TVR used two Ford connectors. These were designed for inside the car, but TVR put them right at the front in the 'Sh*t zone' where they get all the muck and water.... a STUPID decision !
So my wedge was HUGELY better after going through and cleaning up the wiring connectors and greasing them, some new replacements, and I had to remake/clean most of the earth returns. Since then it's been fine (fingers crossed). I have had problems with the switches (as above) and also with the indicator stalk switch part too. behind the dash, I put proper heatshrink on several joins and cleaned up.
It is worth the effort, but doesn't seem like it at the time....
I have to say the standard of the wiring loom finish wasn't very good in the first place, with crimped connectors not properly done, and what appears to be nothing more than insulation tape over some joins (are they original ? I think so, but can't be sure).
Plus on the 2.8 engine TVR used two Ford connectors. These were designed for inside the car, but TVR put them right at the front in the 'Sh*t zone' where they get all the muck and water.... a STUPID decision !
So my wedge was HUGELY better after going through and cleaning up the wiring connectors and greasing them, some new replacements, and I had to remake/clean most of the earth returns. Since then it's been fine (fingers crossed). I have had problems with the switches (as above) and also with the indicator stalk switch part too. behind the dash, I put proper heatshrink on several joins and cleaned up.
It is worth the effort, but doesn't seem like it at the time....
RCK974X said:
NB> Careful ! the switch has little springs and pins in it, which can fly out....
That's the exact reason that i had a spare, first attempt to dismantle the original and off went the springs. I bought a cheap one so i could figure out how to put it all back together and have a spare... then i ran it over Edited by RCK974X on Monday 12th November 19:30
Both lights are on main beam regardless of the position of the column switch, they don't change if i flash or wiggle the column switch. I figure it likely to be the contacts round the back of the switch have gone wonky. However i can check the back of the light switch and the pods while i'm at it.
RichChef said:
Both lights are on main beam regardless of the position of the column switch, they don't change if i flash or wiggle the column switch. I figure it likely to be the contacts round the back of the switch have gone wonky. However i can check the back of the light switch and the pods while i'm at it.
It just dawned on me - if both the DIP and the MAIN are lit together, it could be the diode has failed, which would behave as if both circuits are connected together ....(The diode(s) which sends 'UP' signal to the pod relays)
Looks like Detective Andyp has solved another one!
I have a general comment on TVR rewiring. Consider using marine wiring. Boat wire is superior in several ways. It is stranded copper, which is tinned. This resists corrosion better than copper alone. The cost is not prohibitive, but if you need more than black, white or red, you will need to go to a specialty shop. Because boats also do not use the bodywork for earthing (grounding), boat wire is also available with two wires inside. It looks like Romex, the wire used in a lot of house wiring - but it is also stranded and tinned.
Wilf.
I have a general comment on TVR rewiring. Consider using marine wiring. Boat wire is superior in several ways. It is stranded copper, which is tinned. This resists corrosion better than copper alone. The cost is not prohibitive, but if you need more than black, white or red, you will need to go to a specialty shop. Because boats also do not use the bodywork for earthing (grounding), boat wire is also available with two wires inside. It looks like Romex, the wire used in a lot of house wiring - but it is also stranded and tinned.
Wilf.
I thank you ... takes a bow.....
What I used to do is to find a vehicle in the scrappers which hasn't been wrecked too much, and strip out all the wiring loom. That's a good source of wire of different sizes with colour coding, connectors, relays, switches sometimes, etc etc.
When I then rewire, I make a plan of what colour code does what, and keep it. Have done several kit cars this way. You do need to add earth returns, but I scrounged a full reel of fairly thick black wire from someone's bin (I think it was at work a long time ago ?) so that works perfectly.
You can buy 1/4 inch spade connectors in bulk, which is the cheapest way IMHO (Radiospares etc)
What I used to do is to find a vehicle in the scrappers which hasn't been wrecked too much, and strip out all the wiring loom. That's a good source of wire of different sizes with colour coding, connectors, relays, switches sometimes, etc etc.
When I then rewire, I make a plan of what colour code does what, and keep it. Have done several kit cars this way. You do need to add earth returns, but I scrounged a full reel of fairly thick black wire from someone's bin (I think it was at work a long time ago ?) so that works perfectly.
You can buy 1/4 inch spade connectors in bulk, which is the cheapest way IMHO (Radiospares etc)
Now this is going to be a silly question, where does the diode live? I have some kicking about as i replaced all the ones inside the light pods (one was knackered so i figured in for a penny...). Does not seem to be one near the fuse box/relay board. Its a early '85 if that helps
Re-wiring is very tempting. I plan to re-do the interior at some point in the next year or so, if i get the dash and carpets out i might build a new loom for the dash section (stick waterproof junction boxes into the old parts no behind the dash). I figure it can be done painlessly in a couple of sections... humm may regret saying that.
Re-wiring is very tempting. I plan to re-do the interior at some point in the next year or so, if i get the dash and carpets out i might build a new loom for the dash section (stick waterproof junction boxes into the old parts no behind the dash). I figure it can be done painlessly in a couple of sections... humm may regret saying that.
For the early ones (like mine, 1982), they have the fuses and relays on the driver's side of engine compartment, and there is a diode strung between two relay bases - quite hard to spot for the first time...
As far as I know, the later ones have (some ?) fuses and relays behind the glove box, and the diode is on that panel - someone confirm please ? thanks...
As far as I know, the later ones have (some ?) fuses and relays behind the glove box, and the diode is on that panel - someone confirm please ? thanks...
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