280 fhc Hot gear stick - help!
Discussion
Finally, after 11 months off the road I now have an MOT and a sort-of running 280i.
Now I wondered if anyone else out there knows what is supposed to seal the gear lever to the body - mine just has a big hole in the tunnel, the heat is starting to get to me now, along with the fumes. Has anyone got a solution ?
-Jim
Now I wondered if anyone else out there knows what is supposed to seal the gear lever to the body - mine just has a big hole in the tunnel, the heat is starting to get to me now, along with the fumes. Has anyone got a solution ?
-Jim
On the 350 / 400 there is a rubber boot type seal that is quite large (sits in a recess under the trans tunnel), with the gear gaitor / centre console going over this for cosmetic value
I recently replaced one with a Chimera item (as available from TVR dealers for £15, so this may also do the job. ( Also had the same part number on as my dodgy 15 year old perished one !)
It certainly stopped the noise and smell coming through to the cabin.
I recently replaced one with a Chimera item (as available from TVR dealers for £15, so this may also do the job. ( Also had the same part number on as my dodgy 15 year old perished one !)
It certainly stopped the noise and smell coming through to the cabin.
guess i'll be taking mine off then!I've just sorted mine with a Sierra Diesel rubber gearstick gator! It came free with a Type 9 I bought years ago. The previous one was two small, fell down into the tunnel and filled the car with black smoke as it burnt on the exhaust, I s%$t myself when that happened!
Anyways, it fits quite well over the gearstick. Then made a gearlever surround out of reasonably thickish alloy sheet. Basically a square of alloy with a square cut out the middle. Then used this to sandwich the rubber gator in between it and the GRP round the hole. Intend to cover this up with a leather gator when I do the interior as it doesn't look that great but works quite well.
Draught+smell very much reduced but still gets quite hot, I wouldn't like to have an alloy knob
Anyways, it fits quite well over the gearstick. Then made a gearlever surround out of reasonably thickish alloy sheet. Basically a square of alloy with a square cut out the middle. Then used this to sandwich the rubber gator in between it and the GRP round the hole. Intend to cover this up with a leather gator when I do the interior as it doesn't look that great but works quite well.
Draught+smell very much reduced but still gets quite hot, I wouldn't like to have an alloy knob
Thanks york33 et al, it sounds like you have a much smaller hole in the tub above the gear lever than I do. My lever is connected to the gearbox by a dog leg of some 30mm, leaving a very narrow clearance betwen the lever and one of the chassis rails, when first gear is engaged. Perhaps my having a 2+2 with a four speed makes a difference ? I have various boots from Fords, including fiestas, and sierras some of which are rectangular, some are round, I have one less round one since it fell through the hole and caught light on the exhaust, much like yours! So I guess I am forced to use a rectangular one, and have to remove some tub material to make the base flat.
I wondered if I could fabricate a grp panel that sits over the big hole, making a smaller one, that I could mount the gaiter to, since if I use a square plate, I shall have to put two bends in it, leaving a rather large dangerous fumes hole.
So how do I make a grp panel? I have some chop strand, and a roll of woven grp mat, but if I use grp mat I have the same problem with two right angle bends. I also want to make the panel removeable, for access to the gear turret.
-Jim
I wondered if I could fabricate a grp panel that sits over the big hole, making a smaller one, that I could mount the gaiter to, since if I use a square plate, I shall have to put two bends in it, leaving a rather large dangerous fumes hole.
So how do I make a grp panel? I have some chop strand, and a roll of woven grp mat, but if I use grp mat I have the same problem with two right angle bends. I also want to make the panel removeable, for access to the gear turret.
-Jim
My hole (ahem
) is about 4"x5.5". Yup, my 2+2, has, or rather had that dog leg too, since removed as it offended me
I didn't worry about the GRP being flat. I used alloy sheet which is quite soft. Angles can be bent before fitting and the base bent to the right shape as I screwed it down, sealing things nicely. I did add a double thickness rubber strip down one side too.
I'm a little puzzled by your description
and what size+shape your hole (urmmm) is?
Been out again today and I'm really quite pleased with it
) is about 4"x5.5". Yup, my 2+2, has, or rather had that dog leg too, since removed as it offended me I didn't worry about the GRP being flat. I used alloy sheet which is quite soft. Angles can be bent before fitting and the base bent to the right shape as I screwed it down, sealing things nicely. I did add a double thickness rubber strip down one side too.
I'm a little puzzled by your description
and what size+shape your hole (urmmm) is? Been out again today and I'm really quite pleased with it
As part of the refurb of the Tasmin I covered the transmission tunnel with heat reflective material. When it came to the gear stick gaitor I didn't want to use one the original rubber one as I thought that all the heat trapped under the car would find it's way through the gaitor. So I made one out of the reflective material and sandwiched it between two Aluminium plates. The plates are screwed into the fiberglass of the transmission tunnel using self tappers with some RTV silicone to make sure it seals.
when i replaced mine I got hold of a Ford part, I think its from a Granada, I'd have to check the part number though. It came as a double gaiter. The two halves come apart easily enough and then the top of the leatherette gaiter sits underneath the rubber flange. No idea if these are still available but its worth a try. I also used some insulating matting and reflective sheet from Demon Tweeks to insulate the underneath of the centre console hopefully to rpevent the swtiches melting. Seems to have worked so far and my gear lever stays reasonably cool now.
Well, for future forum searchers, thought I'd mention how I got on with making the GRP gaiter plate.
I cut out a few templates for the gaiter plate out of polyethene sheeting. Since nothing sticks to it [Polyethene] I figured I'd use it as a mould release and template too, of which it worked well in both cases.
I laid one set of woven roven on the plastic sheeting in the car, and was going to do more, but the resin went stupid hot, and turned into jelly before I could put more layers down. Once set, I removed the thin grp plate from the car and retreated to the shed, to avoid ruining the interior completely. Two more layers of woven roven later on subsequent days and I got the thickness up to some 4mm - must take them ages to lay up a GRP body in this stuff, no wonder they use the cheap chopped strand mat.
For the next job I managed to buy a tiny cutting disc tool for £30 from B&Q - it looks like a dentists drill, with all sorts of attachments, and a long flexible drive to the chuck - great for scaring the girlfriend. Worked great to cut out a hole for the rubber gaiter, which was bolted down and sealed with silicone. ( Glad I had safety glasses on when the first cutting disc exploded !!)
The grp cover plate assembly works much better than I had hoped, totally fume-free in the car now, and I can even change gear without burning the skin off my hand, what luxury. However, after a fairly long drive I noticed that the gaiter was getting mighty hot in a traffic jam, and the handbrake will burn your elbow if you forget! so I think I shall try this heat reflective stuff too, Demon Tweeks you say eh?
-Jim
I cut out a few templates for the gaiter plate out of polyethene sheeting. Since nothing sticks to it [Polyethene] I figured I'd use it as a mould release and template too, of which it worked well in both cases.
I laid one set of woven roven on the plastic sheeting in the car, and was going to do more, but the resin went stupid hot, and turned into jelly before I could put more layers down. Once set, I removed the thin grp plate from the car and retreated to the shed, to avoid ruining the interior completely. Two more layers of woven roven later on subsequent days and I got the thickness up to some 4mm - must take them ages to lay up a GRP body in this stuff, no wonder they use the cheap chopped strand mat.
For the next job I managed to buy a tiny cutting disc tool for £30 from B&Q - it looks like a dentists drill, with all sorts of attachments, and a long flexible drive to the chuck - great for scaring the girlfriend. Worked great to cut out a hole for the rubber gaiter, which was bolted down and sealed with silicone. ( Glad I had safety glasses on when the first cutting disc exploded !!)
The grp cover plate assembly works much better than I had hoped, totally fume-free in the car now, and I can even change gear without burning the skin off my hand, what luxury. However, after a fairly long drive I noticed that the gaiter was getting mighty hot in a traffic jam, and the handbrake will burn your elbow if you forget! so I think I shall try this heat reflective stuff too, Demon Tweeks you say eh?
-Jim
jchase said:
so I think I shall try this heat reflective stuff too, Demon Tweeks you say eh?
-Jim
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