shes a cow

[utternutter]

been trying to part my gearbox from the engine (v8 lt77) but will it part...............nooooooo, all bolts out, starter out, slave cylinder out my patience "OUT"

i have he engine moved forward to part gearbox

anyone out there with any ideas before i result to my neanderthal ways and use a 20lb sledge hammer on it

[The Hatter]

Dowels corroded and swelled. Had it on my SEAC, one on each side of the engine. One side you can get to the back of the dowel and tap (Ha!) it out; passenger side from memory. The other side I had to grit my teeth and belt the belhousing - not nice but it worked. Just take it as gently as possible with WD40 where you can get it and blocks of wood to spread the impact from the mallet/hammer.

and don't forget the flywheel splash shield under the engine that bolts to the gearbox but is the engine side of the flywheel...

[GV]

Agreed to the above - check all the bolts have been removed WD40 etc. I would also ensure you have the weight of the engine fully supported so that gearbox's weight is not sagging down then it should be a case of using a suitable lever to prise apart the 2 units levering at different points between the 2. Don't get tempted to clout at the box the bell housing otherwise you may end up cracking a piece off.

[andym1603]

Would it be possible to use the clutch action to seperate both units. You would have to
put the slave back on for this though.

ETA Spelling.

Edited by andym1603 on Wednesday 23 January 19:04

[Danny Hoffman]

If it is a rusted dowel some localised heat might free it

[adam quantrill]

I usually find that they are reluctant to split even when the dowels are fine. But do double check you have removed EVERY bolt ;^)

So what I do is jack up the rear of the box as far as it will go - that will result in a very thin crack appearing between bellhousing and engine - at the bottom. Wedge a bit of thin metal in the crack (e.g. some sheet aly).

Then jack up near the rear of the engine and check for a crack appearing at the top - repeat jamming in a bit of metal. Wiggle the back of the box from side to side, too.

After a few cycles of widening your crack it should get easier. Once it's as wide as 5mm you can jam in something wide enough to start levering it apart.

Now, what was this about gearboxes???? ;^)

[wooly350i]

Adams idea sounds spot on says me boy who works on gearboxes. From memory reckons a dowel each side.

[utternutter]

Thanks for all the ideas, I've soaked everything in WD40 and will attack it in the morning and will try all the ideas, 10 pounder waiting on the sideline just in case I lose it lol

[utternutter]

Well the box is out, used every trick supplied to me and it finally worked, many thanks all

[wooly350i]

We'll done matey,which trick was most successful?

[utternutter]

I used the Jack to wiggle and part the box slightly from the engine and then used large screwdrivers in the gaps and gently tapped them till the box popped off, now I want to redesign the chassis where the problem lies with removing the box by the gearbox mounts so it's easier to install the new box in and for future gearbox work

[wooly350i]

Would you be talking cutting out the bottom cross member? Carefull now coz it can weaken ya chassis, I have heard of somebody doing a removable cross member sleeved and bolted.

[utternutter]

that's what I've been looking at doing, it's just a matter of designing it.