Another daft question. steering this time
Discussion
Hi all
Are you fed up of me asking questions yet?
Been putting the front suspension back together this evening. NOT! Scared myself whitless with a set of spring compressors, then gave up. Will be going down the 12mm rod route tomorrow.
Anyway while I was under there generally getting myself in a lather. My mate Ade was reading the Bible out loud. He got to the bit about the steering UJ's possibly being TVR specific. So I thought lets have a look while I'm here.
The top one has a far bit of play and the bush could do with a replacement as well. I've seen the article on here and Wedga pages about the bush.
But are the UJ'S available?
Thanks again Karl
Are you fed up of me asking questions yet?
Been putting the front suspension back together this evening. NOT! Scared myself whitless with a set of spring compressors, then gave up. Will be going down the 12mm rod route tomorrow.
Anyway while I was under there generally getting myself in a lather. My mate Ade was reading the Bible out loud. He got to the bit about the steering UJ's possibly being TVR specific. So I thought lets have a look while I'm here.
The top one has a far bit of play and the bush could do with a replacement as well. I've seen the article on here and Wedga pages about the bush.
But are the UJ'S available?
Thanks again Karl
There are a few different ones apparently, speak to Richard at http://www.rtracing.co.uk/
Yatesy350i said:
Are you fed up of me asking questions yet?
No..Its the only way to learn...The bible is a good read..The pictures are very helpful but unfortunately some of the info is in-correct as i have found out and others may tell you..As far as steering joints/knuckles/UJ's i got mine from David gerald...Apparently there are several different types..Ideally it would be best to measure the diameter of the shaft's both sides of the knuckle/UJ with vernier caliper's and also measure the length of the knuckle itself before contacting either supplier...Ziga
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=d...
When it comes to vehicles, there's no such thing as a daft question.....
Bottom UJ on my 280 is Triumph (several models) where shaft/spline is the same on both sides. Upper one I don't know, it has a small/large spline (perhaps TR7 ??)
Spring compressors - there are a lot of marginal ones out there, which really don't have enough of a 'hook' to safely latch onto the spring. My tips....
Put compressors on at a slight angle from vertical, so it's 90 degrees from the wire angle - this way hooks will engage better. (i.e pair of compressors will be offset from each other to fit the coils) Always fit compressors as a pair, and tighten together equally, so the coil spring stays straight. NEVER hit or drop them, as springs can jump out of the compressors - treat as if they are fragile. Compress only just enough to dismantle.
If you're not sure about hooks, try wrapping wire or rope around the compressors to keep them on the spring, but be careful it doesn't foul in the screw threads...
All sounds obvious, but I've seen friends do stuff that makes me shudder....
Bottom UJ on my 280 is Triumph (several models) where shaft/spline is the same on both sides. Upper one I don't know, it has a small/large spline (perhaps TR7 ??)
Spring compressors - there are a lot of marginal ones out there, which really don't have enough of a 'hook' to safely latch onto the spring. My tips....
Put compressors on at a slight angle from vertical, so it's 90 degrees from the wire angle - this way hooks will engage better. (i.e pair of compressors will be offset from each other to fit the coils) Always fit compressors as a pair, and tighten together equally, so the coil spring stays straight. NEVER hit or drop them, as springs can jump out of the compressors - treat as if they are fragile. Compress only just enough to dismantle.
If you're not sure about hooks, try wrapping wire or rope around the compressors to keep them on the spring, but be careful it doesn't foul in the screw threads...
All sounds obvious, but I've seen friends do stuff that makes me shudder....
Edited by RCK974X on Monday 28th January 22:17
+1 for david gerald, very helpful guys.
be careful when putting uj's back in, you have to get them just right otherwise they foul, when you fit them gently check the you can turn lock to lock (preferably with front end jacked up), if you feel any resistance STOP! and adjust them, otherwise you'll bust the top seal on steering rack...........been there done that!
be careful when putting uj's back in, you have to get them just right otherwise they foul, when you fit them gently check the you can turn lock to lock (preferably with front end jacked up), if you feel any resistance STOP! and adjust them, otherwise you'll bust the top seal on steering rack...........been there done that!
If your indicator/wiper stalks are the stubby design then the top shaft may well be triangular although im not 100% on the year..It might be better also to scribe where the knuckle sits on each shaft...But make sure you do check for any abnormal play or stiffness as mentioned..You dont want to mess about with steering!..Maybe check the steering bulkhead bush while you are at it and replace if needed...Cheers..Ziga
As a last resort it's possible to replace the cruciform bearing assembly in the column UJs, but if you don't know what you're doing, don't try it.
I think it was Steve Evans some years ago who spent absolutely ages trying to establish what the donor was (for the dual-splined version) and I think he arrived at the conclusion that the UJ was assembled from two different sized units. I think Nacam (or similar) was the maker but you won't find them now...
I have an old Car Builder Solutions catalogue that lists a dead ringer for the joint, but I can't find my book of words that has the Tasmin column joint drawing that I did waaaaay back in about '96. The CBS one is 14mm (9/16") diameter each side which 'feels' about right but it has 36 splines and that's the bit I can't recall.
I have a new MGB UJ kicking around that I picked up for buttons on the 'Bay (despite Steve saying, I'm sure, that it wasn't an MGB one
) and it's too big, so maybe the TVR column is only half-inch 
I think it was Steve Evans some years ago who spent absolutely ages trying to establish what the donor was (for the dual-splined version) and I think he arrived at the conclusion that the UJ was assembled from two different sized units. I think Nacam (or similar) was the maker but you won't find them now...
I have an old Car Builder Solutions catalogue that lists a dead ringer for the joint, but I can't find my book of words that has the Tasmin column joint drawing that I did waaaaay back in about '96. The CBS one is 14mm (9/16") diameter each side which 'feels' about right but it has 36 splines and that's the bit I can't recall.
I have a new MGB UJ kicking around that I picked up for buttons on the 'Bay (despite Steve saying, I'm sure, that it wasn't an MGB one
) and it's too big, so maybe the TVR column is only half-inch Edited by Wedg1e on Tuesday 29th January 01:25
Zig's comment - info - as far as I know, the triangular column end and UJ is a Ford design, so the later wedges with Ford columns would probably have that one.
I know definitely that the Mk4 Cortina and the Mk2 Granny had triangular steering column ends, and it seems that Sierras do too, but not seen them with my own eyes....
I know definitely that the Mk4 Cortina and the Mk2 Granny had triangular steering column ends, and it seems that Sierras do too, but not seen them with my own eyes....
When two joints are used on a shaft, the forks of the yokes closest to each other should be in line, or “in phase.” Premature wear or binding can result if the u-joints are not phased properly.
If the u-joints are at a severe angle, even if they are phased correctly, a hard spot in the steering may occur for no apparent reason. If this happens, index the u-joints two or three splines in one direction. The hard spot should disappear or be minimized.
I got this from a US company Borgeson site but couldn't copy the pictures
If the u-joints are at a severe angle, even if they are phased correctly, a hard spot in the steering may occur for no apparent reason. If this happens, index the u-joints two or three splines in one direction. The hard spot should disappear or be minimized.
I got this from a US company Borgeson site but couldn't copy the pictures
Well I made myself an internal spring compressor. Ok it's a bit of 12mm threaded rod, so it didn't take much fabricating. I did go to town on the base plate though and shaped it to fit inside the lower wishbone.
What a piece of cake. Both sides rebuilt in no time. No drama and no screaming like a girl while compressing the spring :-)
I did manage to remove the springs with conventional external spring compressors. But couldn't get them refitted.
Hope I won't be needing it again in the near future. But it's there just in case.
Got barrel nut and enough rod left to make another one if anyone needs one.
What a piece of cake. Both sides rebuilt in no time. No drama and no screaming like a girl while compressing the spring :-)
I did manage to remove the springs with conventional external spring compressors. But couldn't get them refitted.
Hope I won't be needing it again in the near future. But it's there just in case.
Got barrel nut and enough rod left to make another one if anyone needs one.
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