Discussion
h to re place ,(job for spring time )Sounds like you've got a seized piston. Rear brakes are jag. I got a recon set from a company in Colchester Essex called ward engineering (google jag axles) paid about £110 but ithink they've gone up quite a bit in the last couple of years since. Got mine off ok - it's a bit of an awkward job but do-able 
They are XJ6 and some XJS... earlier Jags had a slightly different version and later ones went to outboard calipers which are different again.
You can get stainless pistons for them if you want to push the boat out. You may find the bleed nipple shears off when you try to bleed them so crack it off (or drill it out, as I had to) when the calipers are on the bench.
Here are my calipers being overhauled...
http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p11.ht...
How you extract them may be down to the route your exhaust takes: on my car it was easiest to move the calipers across to the lefthand side and do a Krypton Factor Wiggle (tm) to get them out through the chassis tubes.
The most fun is probably in getting the caliper bolts out...
In hidsight it'd be quicker to drop the diff and work on the brakes in comfort... but then dropping the diff opens various other cans of worms:
http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p13.ht...
Good luck!
You can get stainless pistons for them if you want to push the boat out. You may find the bleed nipple shears off when you try to bleed them so crack it off (or drill it out, as I had to) when the calipers are on the bench.
Here are my calipers being overhauled...
http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p11.ht...
How you extract them may be down to the route your exhaust takes: on my car it was easiest to move the calipers across to the lefthand side and do a Krypton Factor Wiggle (tm) to get them out through the chassis tubes.
The most fun is probably in getting the caliper bolts out...
In hidsight it'd be quicker to drop the diff and work on the brakes in comfort... but then dropping the diff opens various other cans of worms:
http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p13.ht...
Good luck!
Not sure which jag models are fitted with the same set-up but it's pretty much any model with the jaguar IRS definitely E-types and early xj saloons and I think the xjs - someone on here will be able to give you a definitive answer. Was able to remove the rear calliper s in about 40 mins getting them back on took longer. You have to work round/through the chassis tubes and prop - awkward and dirty but not impossible
Danny Hoffman said:
Any tips for getting the rear calliper bolts out Ian?
I bought a complete trailing arm rear end (inc drive shafts, diff, brakes etc) for peanuts off fleeb@y a while ago and when I came to strip it down one of the bolts is seized with a mashed head.
Hmmm, good one that Danny... if the usual suspects of heat and chisels won't persude the bolt to turn, can you get a thin cutting disc or hacksaw through the head, flush with the caliper casting? If you could do that you could prise the caliper enough towards the diff to get a saw through the shank of the bolt, lift the caliper and disc off and drill out the remains from the caliper bracket.I bought a complete trailing arm rear end (inc drive shafts, diff, brakes etc) for peanuts off fleeb@y a while ago and when I came to strip it down one of the bolts is seized with a mashed head.
That could work as well but I'm always nervous about welding anything with bearings in it in case the weld current finds a path through the balls and spot-welds them to the races. Of course they'd break free but the resultant surface damage wouldn't bode well.
Another way I thought of earlier when I test-assembled one caliper and disc to my diff which is still on the bench, would be to remove the 4 bolts joining the caliper halves. You could then split the caliper, get the disc out of the way and drill the bolt out from the threaded end. Start off small and work up, by the time you're close to the bolt diameter the head should chisel off no problem. Sometimes the heat of drilling frees the bolt off anyway.
Not sure you would get a grinder in there; maybe with a brand new disc fitted.
Either way, once the bolt is free to turn there are only about 10-12 threads into the caliper bracket.
Another way I thought of earlier when I test-assembled one caliper and disc to my diff which is still on the bench, would be to remove the 4 bolts joining the caliper halves. You could then split the caliper, get the disc out of the way and drill the bolt out from the threaded end. Start off small and work up, by the time you're close to the bolt diameter the head should chisel off no problem. Sometimes the heat of drilling frees the bolt off anyway.
Not sure you would get a grinder in there; maybe with a brand new disc fitted.
Either way, once the bolt is free to turn there are only about 10-12 threads into the caliper bracket.
I would definitely replace both of the calipers - if one is seized, the other will probably be in similar condition internally. Don't forget to remove (and replace) the lockwire securing the caliper bolts - not easy to do in situ, but definitely needed. I seem to recall the NS is the one which is very tight on clearance btween the chassis tubes to remove the caliper, but it should eventually go.
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