Especially for Zig (Supercharger is Go!!!)

[ChimpofDarkness]

Hi Zig, all your Supercharger dreams can now be a reality for just £200.

http://www.aldonamethyst.co.uk/

It's the perfect cheap solution to the problem of detonation, the reason I warned you off the supercharger while still sporting a distributor.

Have a look, others with distributor based ignition systems (which is most of on here I'd guess) could benefit massively from a mappable ignition system.

You can now perfect your ignition timing and alter it based on vacuum/boost, throttle position & engine speed.

That's three dimensional ignition for anyone running a distributor, and for a price everyone can afford.

There's a vacuum for the normally aspirated amongst you.

And a boost model that appears to have been made just for our mate Zig

At £200 it's got to be this years must have mod for everyone still running a distributor

[mrzigazaga]

Thanks Dave..I will ring them and have a chat..I do have the distributor that came with the kit..MAP sensor is probably more for me although i will have to tap into the plenum to get a manifold pressure reading..I dont really want to start adding trigger wheels and ECU's as it might complicate things although a must for full boost..Cheers..Ziga

Will try to get to the Ace on the 20th of this month if you are up for it...

[ChimpofDarkness]

mrzigazaga said:

Thanks Dave..I will ring them and have a chat..I do have the distributor that came with the kit..MAP sensor is probably more for me although i will have to tap into the plenum to get a manifold pressure reading..I dont really want to start adding trigger wheels and ECU's as it might complicate things although a must for full boost..Cheers..Ziga

Will try to get to the Ace on the 20th of this month if you are up for it...

Mate, I dont think you've quite grasped how good this new Amethyst mappable ignition system is for you.

At the very least you should be jumping up & down with excitement

It's the answer to your prayers and makes supercharging your Wedge a safe reality all for the princely sum of £200.

That's remarkable

You absolutely have to buy it if you want to fit the supercharger and be safe from detonation.

You'd be mad if you dont

[mrzigazaga]

ChimpofDarkness said:

You'd be mad if you dont

I thought you knew me???......I was having the compression lowered to avoid detonation but here you go.........................

I see the unit has a vacuum inlet so i will need a MAP sensor check valve?..Mechanical not electrical...

Edited by mrzigazaga on Monday 18th February 00:10

[ChimpofDarkness]

mrzigazaga said:

ChimpofDarkness said:

You'd be mad if you dont

I thought you knew me???......I was having the compression lowered to avoid detonation but here you go.........................

That's better mate

For the record on the Aldon Amethyst Mappable Ignition System uses your existing distributor to reference engine speed, so no messing about with fitting a trigger wheel.

The unit is also your MAP sensor, if you look at the unit you can see where you fit the vacuum pipe, or in your case the boost reference pipe

So Amethyst is really the answer to all your payers in one little box of joy

It also appears to be really simple to fit, just a few wires & lock up the mechanical advance in your dizzy.

Then download an advance curve into it's brain, I suggest using an advance strobe to plot your current advance curve, 500rpm increments should be fine,

You can then replicate this curve in your Aldon Amethyst as as a good starting point .

From there you can tell it to progressively pull an escalating number of degrees of timing out based on the rising amount of boost.

I expect your distributor currently offers a maximum of 30 degrees or so mechanical advance at a little over 3000rpm.

After that the only additional advance you'll ever get is from the vacuum advance module, say another 8 degrees of advance when you create a strong depression in the inlet manifold IE small a throttle opening at higher engine speeds.

You need to disconnect the vac advance when you put the blower on anyway so this is a bit irrelevant.

What is relevant is how much timing you pull out as the boost goes up, every engine will be slightly different so it'll be a bit of trial & error, it's obviously dependent on how much boost you're running too.

However, detonation is bad news so you should always start with a more retarded setting than you think you need.

If your blower delivers a maximum of 8psi you want to be pulling about 15 degrees of timing out at max boost to start with.

That's a lot, but it allows you to safely walk the advance up slowly towards detonation.

The problem with tuning by ear is that the onset of detonation is inaudible to the human lug hole, but if you're careful you should be fine.

Maximum power is ideally found on the rolling road & with knock sensors, but it'll probably end up 3-4 degrees before the onset of detonation.

You can improve your ability to detect detonation by adapting a pair of ear defenders with some washer pipe; two tin cans & a piece of string stylee

Or by training your neighbours dog to bark when it hears the early onset of detonation

It certainly looks like the Amethyst is a cost effective way to make your blower work a treat

[RCK974X]

Well, I have a disassembled EEC-IV of a standard 2.8 twin MAF Granada Scorpio, including the ignition maps, which would be a good starting point I guess - you're welcome to a listing, just ask.

I'm very tempted myself, given that we all have to run with unleaded fruit cocktail instead of 4 star, and the burn charactaristics must be different.... I run my 280 with about 2 degress reatrd and vac adv disconnected. I know the vac adv is supposed to improve economy, but it seems to make no difference except that engine definitely runs better on light throttle without it.
(NZ 'Super' unleaded grade. 96-98 Octane claimed)

[mrzigazaga]

ChimpofDarkness said:

The unit is also your MAP sensor, if you look at the unit you can see where you fit the vacuum pipe, or in your case the boost reference pipe.

Hi mate..I can see the inlet for the MAP sensor on the unit..(Very cool) but where and how would i take the pressure being delivered from the blower ?..Would i have to tap into the pipe that goes into the plenum from the blower or the plenum itself?.(Being the last point of delivery)..There is a vacuum feed on the throttle body which normally goes to the dizzy..Would this be adequate enough as it would literally make the unit a total plug and play...Yummy....I have to confess that i didnt read the info at the bottom of the link at first but when i did..Well im very impressed to say the least and would agree that it would be worth having..Somehow all the previous as regards to TPS..Trigger wheels...Aftermarket ECU's..Coil packs and EFI manifolds just seemed to spiral up the money tree but for 200 smackers this little bit of kit makes more sense, Especially as i will only be running low boost.(4-6psi)..For now anyway's..Thanks again for finding it, I owe you a....or two...Ziga

[ChimpofDarkness]

mrzigazaga said:

Hi mate..I can see the inlet for the MAP sensor on the unit..(Very cool) but where and how would i take the pressure being delivered from the blower ?..Would i have to tap into the pipe that goes into the plenum from the blower or the plenum itself?.(Being the last point of delivery)..There is a vacuum feed on the throttle body which normally goes to the dizzy..Would this be adequate enough as it would literally make the unit a total plug and play...Yummy....I have to confess that i didnt read the info at the bottom of the link at first but when i did..Well im very impressed to say the least and would agree that it would be worth having..Somehow all the previous as regards to TPS..Trigger wheels...Aftermarket ECU's..Coil packs and EFI manifolds just seemed to spiral up the money tree but for 200 smackers this little bit of kit makes more sense, Especially as i will only be running low boost.(4-6psi)..For now anyway's..Thanks again for finding it, I owe you a....or two...Ziga

Zig, it's really simple mate, you'll just need the following:

1) The Aldon Amethyst

2) A boost reference fuel pressure regulator

3) Some pipe

4) A "T" piece

5) Six larger injectors (there are simple equations to help you choose how big)

The boost reference for both he Aldon Amethyst and the forced induction FPR can be taken from the same point, simply connect a hose using a "T" piece to the plenum directly AFTER the throttle butterfly.

Both the Amethyst & the FPR need to know how much true boost the combustion chambers are being subjected to at any given time, that's why you take the reference after the throttle butterfly & not before it.

The reference causes the FPR to vary pressure such that the pressure across any injector remains constant as boost/vacuum varies.

The same reference is seen by the Aldon Amethyst which you have configured to retard your ignition timing by a chosen number of degrees given the amount of boost going in.

For starters you could get busy with Excel, first off plot your advance curve IE:

• X axis = RPM & Y axis = Standard normally aspirated degrees of advance

Then measure & overlay your boost graph, IE:

• X axis = remains RPM & a Axis = Amount of boost

But I wouldn't spend too much time doing this as the Aldon Amethyst will have software that allows you to create such a graph.

You can then start to configure how much timing you want to pull out at a given amount of boost, as the boost rises you'll need to retard the timing more & more to avoid detonation but remain in the sweet spot for optimum burn & cylinder pressures so consequently optimum power.

The point at which you initiate combustion is critical to both achieve this point of maximum power & avoid the dreaded detonation.

Heat will also dramatically affect the point at which you experience detonation.

Ideally you need to reference the temperature of the compressed air being forced into the combustion chamber as well as how much of it you're stuffing in, this feature is not available on the Amethyst but you can still create a nice safe timing map without it.

For just £200 the Aldon Amethyst gives you all the ignition control you need to make the supercharger work very nicely indeed while protecting your engine from deadly detonation at the same time.

I notice it also offers two switchable ignition maps, so in theory you could fairly easily run it on LPG & Petrol, which is nice ;-)

I'd get your fuel leak sorted first though mate

[B@man]

My megajolt cost about the same and gets rid of the dizzy altogether and for a 6 pot most of the EDIS-6 parts you need can be purchased in the UK !!

[adam quantrill]

I'll have a look into this one for the V8 too - ta. The use of the dizzy to get timing is interesting although there's maybe less precision than using a trigger wheel - on the V8 the dizzy being driven off the oil pump shaft.

»» You need to disconnect the vac advance when you put the blower on anyway so this is a bit irrelevant.

Is this really true? When running my 400SX I'm almost permanently under heavy vacuum = it's only when running 80% WOT or more that the vacuum disappears (and then the boost kicks in).