Discussion
Excuse the ignorance lads. But as the car keeps cutting out after a struggle to keep running when the engine has warmed up, is adjusting the idle screw is all i need to do. I'm assuming the idle screw is in the recess just left to the center of the piccy? Or will it be something else that needs adjusting? Its currently running about 600 revs and i know it should usually be around 900.
Cheers boys
Dix

Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Cheers boys
Dix

Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Edited by dixiebabes on Tuesday 12th March 09:15
We had the plenium off last year when i replaced the head gaskets danny. I gave it all a good clean out then. Just another thing that may be nothing. When the car cuts out there is a humming from under the seat is this just the fuel pump still running it stops when i switch of the ignition is that normal or is it a problem.
Have you always had the problem?
The air holes by the idle screw are quite small so it is possible that one has got blocked again.
Can't think why the fuel pump would continue to run after it's stalled unless the flapper is sticking open?
Is you ignition timing correct? A few degrees can make a big difference to the idle speed.
The air holes by the idle screw are quite small so it is possible that one has got blocked again.
Can't think why the fuel pump would continue to run after it's stalled unless the flapper is sticking open?
Is you ignition timing correct? A few degrees can make a big difference to the idle speed.
i had the same problem with mine 2 years ago and after days of cleaning and messing around with the idle screw, airflow meter and timing still couldn't get it right and when fan cut in engine would cut out on idle so for £120 i took the car to a specialist with a rolling road and got him to fine tune the engine for me.........................perfect after so she goes there every year now for my piece of mind, if you're still having problems then that may be an idea :-)
Danny Hoffman said:
Another possible cause is blocked breather pipe/flame trap/filter
Reminds me it's been a while since I did mine.Another cause is the timming is out (see related thread of mine from last week).
( I now spell it "timming" since I bought that baargin serp "timming cover" off fleabay)
adam quantrill said:
I now spell it "timming" since I bought that baargin serp "timming cover" off fleabay
Lordy, the abuse the English language has to suffer when there's an internet involved...'Loose' instead of 'lose'
'Prolly' for 'probably'
'Could of' instead of 'could have' (or even could've)
Some of my pet hates are Americanisms:
Gotten, swapped out/ changed out, in back of, from the get-go, let's invade (
)...and don't get me started on running things up flagpoles going forward or touching base with blue-sky ducks in a row...

Jonny weggie said:
Normally with the Idle screw you would screw in until taught then turn anti clockwise for about 11/2 turns [it's either 11/2 or 21/2 cant remember bud].
Only do it when car is warm.
Not wanting to sound like a nugget johnny but whats 11/2 in relation to. Oh aye and what does it mean obviously not that is got a goid chance with a decent jockey on it's back? Only do it when car is warm.
Dix
Call it one and a half to two and a half turns out from being fully screwed in.
Even that will be dependent upon other system settings such as the Air Flow Meter (AFM) and how clean the various air galleries are.
Mine has always been about 4 1/2 to 5 1/2 (that's four and a half to five and a half) turns out from fully home.
If you need any help in following how your flapper system works you can uncover it's mysteries from this archive, here.
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Rover_Te...
and a simple 'find it' diagram too! Pretty similar to your car, methinks?

you might even find the ops manual especially helpful?
Even that will be dependent upon other system settings such as the Air Flow Meter (AFM) and how clean the various air galleries are.
Mine has always been about 4 1/2 to 5 1/2 (that's four and a half to five and a half) turns out from fully home.
If you need any help in following how your flapper system works you can uncover it's mysteries from this archive, here.
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Rover_Te...
and a simple 'find it' diagram too! Pretty similar to your car, methinks?

you might even find the ops manual especially helpful?
Dix, think you car is about the same age as mine. Just re-timed mine after distributor replacement, and idle speed for re-timing is 850 (making sure engine is warm first, but i tend to run mine closer to 900/950 as when the electric fans kick in, it will reduce idle by about 100. The hum/buzz under the seat is the fuel pump,nothing to worry about i think.
Cheers
Rog
Cheers
Rog
bradderztvr said:
Dix, think you car is about the same age as mine. Just re-timed mine after distributor replacement, and idle speed for re-timing is 850 (making sure engine is warm first, but i tend to run mine closer to 900/950 as when the electric fans kick in, it will reduce idle by about 100. The hum/buzz under the seat is the fuel pump,nothing to worry about i think.
Cheers
Rog
Yeah cheers Rog that's pretty much exactly what i done myself. Certainly is a noticeable drop in revs when them fans come in like!!!Cheers
Rog
Dix
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff



