fuel metering head tasmin 280
Discussion
Hello,
Firstly let me apologise that my first post is a request for help, (longtime lurker) i am currently trying to breath some life into a tasmin that hasn't run in a long time and comes to me as someone else has already had a go at it.
The fuel metering head doesn't appear to be doing its job correctly, does anyone have one for sale or know where to point me to find one?
Simon
Firstly let me apologise that my first post is a request for help, (longtime lurker) i am currently trying to breath some life into a tasmin that hasn't run in a long time and comes to me as someone else has already had a go at it.
The fuel metering head doesn't appear to be doing its job correctly, does anyone have one for sale or know where to point me to find one?
Simon
Hi Mate..The only real option is to have it refurbed..Its a very slim chance that you will find a spare and whether it will be good to use is another matter..They have a ultra fine mesh inside that rots if its not used and the plunger that controls the fuel sticks..If the car has sat for a while then you need to see if there is any rust in the fuel tanks as this is a hazard of leaving them sat..The rust will get pulled all the way up to the injectors and you will be forever trying to sort it if you ignore this..Trust me ..I know...If you can get a sample of fuel from the pump or pipe pre-pump to see what condition its in..Hopefully there is no rust as the fuel tanks will need replacing or repairing..You will also need to change..The fuel pump..The accumulator...The bulkhead fuel filter..The metering head..The WUR/Warm up regulator and the injectors if rust is present as either one of these can cause an isseue with cold and hot starting..The worst thing you can do is trying to start or run the/a car that has sat for ages...There is a company called KMI petrol injection who can refurb the metering head and WUR and they sell the pumps and fuel filters..Its not cheap but there is little or no other solution...Hope this helps..Cheers..Ziga
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=k...
PS:Sorry forgot to say welcome to the madhouse...
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=k...
PS:Sorry forgot to say welcome to the madhouse...
Edited by mrzigazaga on Wednesday 10th April 11:33
Good advice from Mr Zigaziga. Since you have been trying to start it, any fuel contamination is probably already in sensitive parts, especially if the filter has failed. Personally I would pull the injectors and hang them in a bucket, swap the pink relay with one of the metal ones, and see if they spray uniformly with the ignition on and the air flap lifted.
The metering head can be a DIY job. - see this article: http://www.porsche928forums.com/download/manuals/C...
The Indian Head shellac might not be easy to find. I would try Yamabond, which is a sealant that is used to joint motorcycle engine cases.
The WUR has a small strainer on the inlet side, just remove the banjo fitting and you will see it.
Check for rust as suggested, replace the fuel filter for good measure regardless.
The metering head can be a DIY job. - see this article: http://www.porsche928forums.com/download/manuals/C...
The Indian Head shellac might not be easy to find. I would try Yamabond, which is a sealant that is used to joint motorcycle engine cases.
The WUR has a small strainer on the inlet side, just remove the banjo fitting and you will see it.
Check for rust as suggested, replace the fuel filter for good measure regardless.
Simon,
I am going through the same thing. The first thing was no spark at the plugs. I replaced the ignition amplifier and am trying to bypass the safety module (not the same as on UK versions)
At the back I changed the 5/8" hoses from tanks to swirl pot and to fuel pump. My tanks were empty so I did it the lazy way; I flushed them with fresh petrol + some injector cleaner into a gallon glass jar - CLEAN. I added an inline fuel filter after the swirl pot, before the pump; this will protect the pump, but is a bit of a restriction to flow. I also bought a new fuel pump.
Then I flushed some of the same petrol/B12 mix through the system to the main fuel filter inlet, added a new fuel filter and flushed to the fuel distributor. I removed the six injectors and tested them - five worked well and the sixth also with a bit of help (more psi)
I then put it all together and can now run the engine with a bit of rigging - a wire from battery +ve to distributor +ve, and a long wire via a remote starting switch to the fuel pump +ve.
My clutch pedal had no resistance, and after fitting a master cylinder kit and bleeding at top only, feels good. Next is an oil change and tidy up my "rigging" and put it together enough to drive it around the block.
Wilf.
I am going through the same thing. The first thing was no spark at the plugs. I replaced the ignition amplifier and am trying to bypass the safety module (not the same as on UK versions)
At the back I changed the 5/8" hoses from tanks to swirl pot and to fuel pump. My tanks were empty so I did it the lazy way; I flushed them with fresh petrol + some injector cleaner into a gallon glass jar - CLEAN. I added an inline fuel filter after the swirl pot, before the pump; this will protect the pump, but is a bit of a restriction to flow. I also bought a new fuel pump.
Then I flushed some of the same petrol/B12 mix through the system to the main fuel filter inlet, added a new fuel filter and flushed to the fuel distributor. I removed the six injectors and tested them - five worked well and the sixth also with a bit of help (more psi)
I then put it all together and can now run the engine with a bit of rigging - a wire from battery +ve to distributor +ve, and a long wire via a remote starting switch to the fuel pump +ve.
My clutch pedal had no resistance, and after fitting a master cylinder kit and bleeding at top only, feels good. Next is an oil change and tidy up my "rigging" and put it together enough to drive it around the block.
Wilf.
Wilf,
Not wanting to get off topic too much, but it sounds like your pink fuel pump relay might not be working correctly. Replace it temporarily with one of the metal relays and see if the pump runs. The pink relay needs to see the ignition module firing to keep the contacts closed. For the spark problem, the 2.8 gets power to the coil through the rev counter when it is running. When starting it is from the ignition switch, but after that if the rev counter is disconnected or faulty the engine won't run.
David
Not wanting to get off topic too much, but it sounds like your pink fuel pump relay might not be working correctly. Replace it temporarily with one of the metal relays and see if the pump runs. The pink relay needs to see the ignition module firing to keep the contacts closed. For the spark problem, the 2.8 gets power to the coil through the rev counter when it is running. When starting it is from the ignition switch, but after that if the rev counter is disconnected or faulty the engine won't run.
David
Thanks, David.
My reply was mostly to list all the things I have looked at (so far) after it stood for about 7 years. The fuel side was better than I expected; the electrics worse.
My 1987 280i is a US spec car, so it does not have the same pink or purple safety module (engine run sensor) Our is cream and wired differently. They are also near impossible to find as only TVR and Rolls/Bentley used them. I wonder how much work it would be to use a UK module.
Wilf.
My reply was mostly to list all the things I have looked at (so far) after it stood for about 7 years. The fuel side was better than I expected; the electrics worse.
My 1987 280i is a US spec car, so it does not have the same pink or purple safety module (engine run sensor) Our is cream and wired differently. They are also near impossible to find as only TVR and Rolls/Bentley used them. I wonder how much work it would be to use a UK module.
Wilf.
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