Stupid question time!
Stupid question time!
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Discussion

Mr Tank

Original Poster:

5,799 posts

305 months

Monday 29th April 2013
quotequote all
Hi Gents

Its stupid question time!

My latest car the (Blue 400SE from Stowmarket) has aircon.

I like all the things to work if fitted to a car. The car is at my friends workshop and the aircon clutch will not operate,

The Instruction book is in another address at present!

So the stupid question is does anybody know how the aircon switches on?

Off coures I expect various funny answers like take the roof off, lower the windows etc, but if its fitted I want it to work at least once while I own the car! biggrin

Andy

pasogrande

375 posts

287 months

Monday 29th April 2013
quotequote all
Andy,

My memory is failing me, but I know the problem with mine was the microswitch; but I don't remember where it is! I also have an inline fuse near the compressor and I am sure you have already checked that.

Wilf.

S2Mike

3,065 posts

180 months

Monday 29th April 2013
quotequote all
Not sure if TVR had this technology, but some aircon does not work below a preset ambient temperature. You just might have to wait for a warmer day.

mrzigazaga

18,816 posts

195 months

Monday 29th April 2013
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Hi Andy..I just remembered something with a saab i had years ago with AC..As said..Check fuses/Wires/switches..Is the compressor coming on when switched on?..I remember the saab's stopped working because the refrigerant was too low..

Mr Tank

Original Poster:

5,799 posts

305 months

Monday 29th April 2013
quotequote all
Hi

Thanks for the replies!

To make the system work the clutch on the aircon pump has to engage and that's done by the Aircon being switch on!

That's what we are trying to do but I don't know what turns it on!

On my Cerb I have a switch which turns the air con on i.e. press it the clutch engages thus driving the aircon pump etc.

What turns the aircon on on a wedge?

Has anybody got a wedge with aircon?

The were a few made (Stupid as it may seem!)

Andy


Barkychoc

7,848 posts

234 months

Monday 29th April 2013
quotequote all
There's probably also a gas pressure switch - so if it needs a gas topup the compressor won't run.

Not entirely sure but I think some old aircon systems can't be topped up with the old gas as it's now banned due to some ozone thingy. Not sure what the solution is to that.

pasogrande

375 posts

287 months

Monday 29th April 2013
quotequote all
Andy, I checked my manual.

Fuse 126 (20 amps) controls A/C pump and A/C cooling fan.
The A/C micro-switch is situated on heater box behind temperature dial.
Relay 129 is for A/C.
The A/C has high and low pressure switches.

As said above, the A/C will not come on unless there is sufficient Freon. If an A/C is not used every few months the various seals dry up and Freon leaks out. In the old days you just bought a can, and with the engine running you pumped it into the system. Unfortunately I think you will find you cannot buy the old Freon (hole in the ozone layer, etc.) and you will have to have the old Freon sucked out, and replaced with new - after which the A/C will not cool as well as it used to! To suck out the old Freon you need a special vacuum pump which stores it without releasing it to the environment; here most garages have them.

I doubt if you wanted to hear this!

Wilf.

pasogrande

375 posts

287 months

Monday 29th April 2013
quotequote all
p.s. In this country the old refrigerant is called R-12; and the new R-134a. R-134a does not cool as well in a system designed for R-12.

Wilf.

Mr Tank

Original Poster:

5,799 posts

305 months

Monday 29th April 2013
quotequote all
Hi

We tried to get the system toped up with gas on Sat and they could not conect on to the system as the connection were in a crapy place!
I think this is a problem which will take a while to resolve, but I will not let it beat me, it will work even if the best air con is to take the roof off!

Andy

GV

2,366 posts

254 months

Monday 29th April 2013
quotequote all
Rip it out and bin it...the stupid part relates to having aircon in a wedge in the first place!

Mr Tank

Original Poster:

5,799 posts

305 months

Monday 29th April 2013
quotequote all
Hi Andy

Thats typical you!

Rip out etc.

Sorry the car was made with it and I keep my cars as original as poss and if its there my task is to to keep it as it was!

TVR built it like this and I am trying to preserve TVR cars as they were built not treated as a custom car!

To many cars have had things done to them which have been detrimental and you should no this i.e a certain coil over suspension etc!
Yes some mods are OK but as I said before I prefer to keep them original because in 20 to 25 years time when I have to give up the collection if they are original I will get a premium return were if they are highly modified then no I will not it's a simple as that!

Andy

mrzigazaga

18,816 posts

195 months

Monday 29th April 2013
quotequote all
pasogrande said:
p.s. In this country the old refrigerant is called R-12; and the new R-134a. R-134a does not cool as well in a system designed for R-12.

Wilf.
Very true..I forgot about that..when i had a G reg saab topped up it was a total waste of money as they used the R134a instead of R12..It was banned already!..It never gave out any cool air let alone cold..The R134a is a synthetic based oil and the R12 was a mineral based oil, I took it to a saab guy i used to know who flushed it out and topped up with R134a and it was cool but not cold like my toyota camry's AC..BBbbbrrr that was cold but then it was designed to use the later gas in the system..On a different note you can buy tins of refrigerant R134a in howlfrauds...Scary!!...The switch for AC on most cars is on or around the heater control area..But then it is a TVR...Ziga

Jack Valiant

1,894 posts

266 months

Monday 29th April 2013
quotequote all
I remember reading somewhere that TVR just put a microswitch behind the hot cold slider. When it was switched to max cold i.e. fully to th right it turned on the aircon via a relay. Flush and gas the system as their machines will tell if there is any leaks then try the operation with the car running with the blower on and cold setting.

( a small test is to take the belt off the compressor pulley and make sure the clutch is free to operate and not siezed)

Chris

chief1

104 posts

224 months

Monday 29th April 2013
quotequote all
Andy,

There should be some sort of info on what gas is in the system on your wedge, be it R12 or R22, which were commonly used in the 80's.
R-401A is the replacement gas for R12
R-404A is the replacement gas for R22.
The expansion valve may need to be changed for the new gas as they will have different characteristics.

R12 has been banned for quite a number of years now and R22 has not been manufactured since the start of 2010. However, you can still get reclaimed R22 through until 31/12/2014. After that it is totally banned.

Hope this helps

Dave.

Mr Tank

Original Poster:

5,799 posts

305 months

Monday 29th April 2013
quotequote all
Hi Chris

Thanks for that info, that would make sense as we cant see a obvious switch any were!

Andy

Edited by Mr Tank on Monday 29th April 17:45

redwedge5

583 posts

291 months

Monday 29th April 2013
quotequote all
My SEAC had A/C fitted and there is a separate multi -position rotary switch on the dash to the left of the steering wheel to operate it.

pasogrande

375 posts

287 months

Monday 29th April 2013
quotequote all
Dave,

On this side of the pond R-22 is the old refrigerant for houses. New home A/C units use R-410A.

Andy,

The info I wrote earlier today (that the microswitch is on the heater box behind the temperature dial) came from my 280i USA spec 1986 manual. It may not be right for your model.

Wilf.

jeff m2

2,060 posts

181 months

Monday 29th April 2013
quotequote all
To convert from 12 to 134a the R12 connections need to be changed to accept 134A ones. You'll need a new drier, expansion valve if not clogged can be left. Very convenient considering it is on the the evaporatorsmile

Then it's off to get it charged. comp oil and 134A.

If you happen to know someone with a AC vacuum pump it is worthwhile vaccing it down to make sure it holds a vacuum first. Vacuum for ten minutes, needle should not have moved after sitting for one hour.

If it does not hold, change all the "O" rings. Make sure you use the green AC ones with a little PAG oil on them. Vac and repeat test.
This will make the recharging much cheaper. It will save you at least 2 hours labour.

OR... look for someone that does 134A converions. (from R12)

Edited by jeff m2 on Monday 29th April 18:26

redwedge5

583 posts

291 months

Monday 29th April 2013
quotequote all
This is the A/C switch on my car:


honestjohntoo

576 posts

246 months

Tuesday 30th April 2013
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From the various comments about your CCOT A/C it seems yours may be similar to the later SD1 Clutch Cycling Orifice Tube system. This circuit diagram may help



if so, then in 16 simple steps, the basic CCOT requirements and function are as follows:

1 the system must be filled with refrigerant for the compressor to generate any pressure.

2 after that the rotary switch must be away from the 'OFF' position,

3 that in turn feeds power to the system mode switch, which,

4 if on, allows current to flow via the low pressure switch (which disallows any function when most refrigerant is lost)

5 to the magnetic clutch relay which, in turn

6 energises the clutch

7 and the compressor fires into action

8 the circulating refrigerant can now do its cooling work thro' the

9 condenser, orifice tube and evaporator, where the refrigeration takes place to extract heat from cabin air.

10 If the refrigerant temperature (and therefore pressure) get too high

11 the Ranco high pressure switch energises the

12 cooling fans relay which in turn

13 switches on the fans to cool the condenser and reduce pressure.

14 There is another switch fitted to the radiator to help the same fans cool the rad if the engine coolant gets too hot.

15 There are some additional features such as fast idle solenoid for auto cars and a disablement of the HRS if fitted.

16 The rotary switch control the blower motor speed via a relay and various control resistors.

If your TVR CCOT system is not the same as the SD1, then the above descriptions will still roughly apply to your similar circuit and its components.

Phew, its hot in here but hopefully that is the whole process. E&O's welcome!

Edited by honestjohntoo on Tuesday 30th April 22:04