Started on Head Gasket Replacement
Discussion
Looks like the inlet manifold will come off without removing the stuff on top - which will save a job. In fact some of the retaining bolts were quite loose anyway. One loos as though it was lost and a longer one was put in with almost an inch of washers on it!!!
One (the easy one) rocker cover off...
Researching cams it looks like most available now are for serp engines - according to the Rev these won't be suitable for a pre-serp. So - nothing off the shelf for me.
Seems the way to go - I've got the manifold off and will hoist it on a rope to the garage roof to keep it out of the way.
Still kept the fuel lines and most of the electrics on there (most of the drivers side is unplugged though to get the loom loose enough).
Looks like the previous person in there was very keen on red hermetite - it's all over the place and even one of the water ports at the back had an almost complete veil of red hermetite over it - can't be good for the water circulation!
I had to swing away the rear air duct on the supercharger for access to a manifold bolt and I'm hoping not to take the whole thing off for remaining access but time will tell. Looks like the alternator will have to come off though as it hangs off the RHS cylinder head.
Still kept the fuel lines and most of the electrics on there (most of the drivers side is unplugged though to get the loom loose enough).
Looks like the previous person in there was very keen on red hermetite - it's all over the place and even one of the water ports at the back had an almost complete veil of red hermetite over it - can't be good for the water circulation!
I had to swing away the rear air duct on the supercharger for access to a manifold bolt and I'm hoping not to take the whole thing off for remaining access but time will tell. Looks like the alternator will have to come off though as it hangs off the RHS cylinder head.
Yes I know you have to be careful with the breaker bar on the rear ones - to make sure you don't whack the windscreen when the bolt cracks open!
So - it has cylinder head bolts on there - do I fit a stud kit? If so presumably 10 studs on each side and re-use the smaller bolts but torque them up only 25lbf to avoid canting the head over?
So - it has cylinder head bolts on there - do I fit a stud kit? If so presumably 10 studs on each side and re-use the smaller bolts but torque them up only 25lbf to avoid canting the head over?
I thought you had to at least have the bolts in the holes to stop leaks.
Last I saw was use threadlock and 20lbf torque on the 4 small ones.
But to put head studs in there for the 4 small bolts each side seems madness - not only is the kit 40 quid more, but you would never want to torque these studs up anyway, so why pay the extra?
Last I saw was use threadlock and 20lbf torque on the 4 small ones.
But to put head studs in there for the 4 small bolts each side seems madness - not only is the kit 40 quid more, but you would never want to torque these studs up anyway, so why pay the extra?
Not a problem as such, just that there a lot of serp cams out there on websites etc.
I have been looking into it and the early serp cams may well work OK in the pre-sep engine, just going to take measurements.
However so far the cam looks fine, the lobes are clean enough, and all the valves move equally, will check the tappets for rotation next before splitting the heads off. Compression seems fair/consistent on all cylinders and may already point to a lowish CR as I get around 9 bar.
I have been looking into it and the early serp cams may well work OK in the pre-sep engine, just going to take measurements.
However so far the cam looks fine, the lobes are clean enough, and all the valves move equally, will check the tappets for rotation next before splitting the heads off. Compression seems fair/consistent on all cylinders and may already point to a lowish CR as I get around 9 bar.
This conversation looks very familiar, just trying to get that B$@st*rd rear cylinder head bolt out. Did anyone have any bright ideas? What socket size is it (metric, AF??). I'll get a decent hex socket on it with a UJ socket adapter and an extension bar and just apply some muscle. Bit concerned that it the bolt rounds off I'm stuffed! Any other suggestions?
Yes -
1. Put the other bolts back in and torque them half-way.
2. Use a breaker bar and 16mm socket with the face-gripping profile, or a hex (not 12 point) socket (probably 5/8"). I have some long-reach sockets that are hex so you can kill two birds with one stone and get a set of long-reach.
3. On the breaker bar stick a 3 foot length of steel pipe for extra leverage.
Progress on mine has been steady if not spectacular. I have realised that the manifolds must come off to get access to the outer head bolts. I am currently stuck with one manifold bolt not wanting to come out, I toyed with the idea of drilling through the head and chiseling it off, but then realised that the stud still protruding will prevent removal, and I then won't be able to get the head out! That is unless I cant the engine over to give more clearance. So I think I'll try welding something to the bolt - the heat usually helps too.
I've also removed the "ancillaries" - alternator and supercharger - it doesn't half look naked without that lump hanging off the side. I'll take the opportunity to measure up and document the brackets in case anyone else wants to make one ;^)
1. Put the other bolts back in and torque them half-way.
2. Use a breaker bar and 16mm socket with the face-gripping profile, or a hex (not 12 point) socket (probably 5/8"). I have some long-reach sockets that are hex so you can kill two birds with one stone and get a set of long-reach.
3. On the breaker bar stick a 3 foot length of steel pipe for extra leverage.
Progress on mine has been steady if not spectacular. I have realised that the manifolds must come off to get access to the outer head bolts. I am currently stuck with one manifold bolt not wanting to come out, I toyed with the idea of drilling through the head and chiseling it off, but then realised that the stud still protruding will prevent removal, and I then won't be able to get the head out! That is unless I cant the engine over to give more clearance. So I think I'll try welding something to the bolt - the heat usually helps too.
I've also removed the "ancillaries" - alternator and supercharger - it doesn't half look naked without that lump hanging off the side. I'll take the opportunity to measure up and document the brackets in case anyone else wants to make one ;^)
Edited by adam quantrill on Sunday 12th May 13:09
Last manifold bolt: well I figured that welding to it was pointless because I wouln't be able to rotate it more than 1/2 turn. So plan B: removed the engine mount bolts on that side and jacking up the engine is splendid and gives much better clearance to the chassis, also allows access to that manifold if you wanted to do any welding. Drilling seemed to have no effect but luckily the angle grinder was a tight fit and reached the bolt head, so now it's off!
[Pauses for the start of the F1...]
I didn't fall into the trap of doing the hardest head bolt last, so starting with the one right at the back I have cracked all the head bolts on the left hand side (incidentally the side I suspect it's leaking but it is 50/50...)
Same philosophy used on the RHS manifold - jack up the engine on that side - start with the hardest-to-get-to bolt, then go round all cracking them open a quarter turn. So both sides are now off - some of the pistons (the 4 middle ones mainly) showed over a millimetre of carbon on them which must have raised the CR appreciably.
Have decoked the pistons and one cylinder head, jobs left to do are remove the stud from the exhaust port, weld up large cracks in the LHS manifold, then paint the manifolds and chassis rails that are now exposed, install the stud kit and then start putting it all back together.
[Pauses for the start of the F1...]
I didn't fall into the trap of doing the hardest head bolt last, so starting with the one right at the back I have cracked all the head bolts on the left hand side (incidentally the side I suspect it's leaking but it is 50/50...)
Same philosophy used on the RHS manifold - jack up the engine on that side - start with the hardest-to-get-to bolt, then go round all cracking them open a quarter turn. So both sides are now off - some of the pistons (the 4 middle ones mainly) showed over a millimetre of carbon on them which must have raised the CR appreciably.
Have decoked the pistons and one cylinder head, jobs left to do are remove the stud from the exhaust port, weld up large cracks in the LHS manifold, then paint the manifolds and chassis rails that are now exposed, install the stud kit and then start putting it all back together.
Edited by adam quantrill on Sunday 12th May 22:42
Welding done today on the manifold I took off, where it had started cracking around the seams. Also built up the flange at the end which was getting a bit thin. As it turned out this job might have needed the head off anyway to get the siezed stud out ;^)
Also welded an iron pipe to the siezed stud which then turned easily so that's all out and good to go.
Have decoked both cylinder heads too - looking at the valve guides and ports it looks mildly ported too - which saves a job ;^)
Problem to resolve on the ARP studs - I need to sort that out somehow (see other thread).
Also welded an iron pipe to the siezed stud which then turned easily so that's all out and good to go.
Have decoked both cylinder heads too - looking at the valve guides and ports it looks mildly ported too - which saves a job ;^)
Problem to resolve on the ARP studs - I need to sort that out somehow (see other thread).
Wow Adam, you don't give up easily! On the studs question, did you use them because it's recommended to dump the bolts, or can you re-use them OK (provided you clean them off well in petrol...)? Thks for the tips, I'll try the breaker bar (when I've bought one), with the engine mount trick if necessary.
I have been here before - previous wedge has composite gaskets which I installed with a new camshaft. This sorted out the occasional fluid burp for good - obviously there was a small leak (can't remember what the old gaskets looked like now it's that long ago). In that case I reused the old bolts and also torqued up the third row to spec.
This time it's ARP studs - this is such a pain of a job I don't want to do it again on this car for a good few years! Looking at how the studs work they must pull the heads down 2 times harder - 15% more torque plus a finer (UNF) thread on the top nuts.
Progress tonight - well one head is in place, just sorting out some straight pushrods and then I can torque it down...
This time it's ARP studs - this is such a pain of a job I don't want to do it again on this car for a good few years! Looking at how the studs work they must pull the heads down 2 times harder - 15% more torque plus a finer (UNF) thread on the top nuts.
Progress tonight - well one head is in place, just sorting out some straight pushrods and then I can torque it down...
Edited by adam quantrill on Friday 31st May 12:18
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff