Discussion
Not that familiar with the trailing arm suspension, although I have owned a 280i - but over 20 years ago. Play in the uj's should be visible, or you can feel it with a finger, if someone gently rocks the wheel top to bottom (i.e. push in from the outside at the top whilst pulling out from the inside at the bottom with the wheels off the ground. Typically the outer will wear quicker than the inner uj. Wheel bearings are non-adjustable, and by pushing the wheel side to side you should be able to see / feel any play. Worth checking that the hub nut is done up properly - 230 ft lbs IIRC.
Hi mate..A lot of play does not sound too good..Check the hub nut..234lbs of torque..Check the trailing arm mounts/bushes for wear and excessive movement..Jack up the rear and pull the wheel towards you then push back again..If it has a lot of play there then it could be your trailing arm bushes..Then hold the top of the wheel with one hand and the bottom with your other and then push the top in whilst pulling the bottom out then the bottom in ..Top out and repeat a few times..If its rocking badly then that could be a wheel bearing or UJ's..spin the wheel to see if you can hear any grinding that would point to a wheel bearing..Check your wheel nuts for tightness and inspect the rear of the hub for any damage..If you have a removeable hub carrier then check that the four bolts are tight..I noticed a lot of negative camber when mine were shot..Hope this helps...
Pic of wheels..
If it is your trailing arm bushes then i would not but any of the old style as they are mostly old stock and will fail again soon after..If you can buy the superflex kit, They are more expensive but then so is doing the same job twice in one year..here is a link to the superflex..Cheers...Ziga
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Pic of wheels..
If it is your trailing arm bushes then i would not but any of the old style as they are mostly old stock and will fail again soon after..If you can buy the superflex kit, They are more expensive but then so is doing the same job twice in one year..here is a link to the superflex..Cheers...Ziga
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Edited by mrzigazaga on Saturday 22 June 17:20
Thanks for you great advice , i am having a better look at it right now , there is a lot of up n down movement , not so much side to side ! the trailing arm is looking OK...either in the hub or the uj not sure as of yet , the nut on the hub feels tight (torque fingers)is there anything inside the hub would to cause movement
Hi Bob it's 2 ball races squished in place by the nut. When the balls wear down you can get play. But as you suspect it could be the outboard UJ too causing the symptoms you describe, jack it up then jack up the suspension too and you'll be able to assess it better. UJ will be obvious if you try and rotate the wheel against the (working!) handbrake.
well having played about it seems like its bushes or what ever is inside the hub....now i will have to find out a link to price out this job ...looks like a lot of work have any of you chaps done this job before....i know mr tank has some replacement nuts....so that will rule out some running around.....
Hi Bob..Yes they use granada mk2 wheel bearings but with two seals rather than one..There is a listing for TVR Tasmin rear wheel bearings..These have to be fitted with care as not to score the inside of the hub or ill-fit them..When mine were done the new ones were gently pressed in with a press, It is also advisable to change both sides at the same time..There are a couple of different makes and they all vary in price..I used these from veco...Ziga
http://www.google.co.uk/aclk?sa=L&ai=CAlhiZA_G...
http://www.google.co.uk/aclk?sa=L&ai=CAlhiZA_G...
Hi Mate..I think the wheel bearings are still the same..Just be careful not to get any dirt on the splines once the hub carrier is off..I think you might have the type which has the hub assembly attached to the trailing arm..I think it was only early tasmins that had the seperate hub assemblies..Ziga
yeah zig i think your right 'the hud is attach to the trailing arm! so link you had posted should be the right ones ?cheers mate always there to help ...i wish i could make it to the bbwf to meet you guys and check out all the wedges ....but i will miss this one flying over in August ....
Bob - I've done this myself but it needs a big press usually to get the bearing carrier out of the middle and put the new one in. One tip is to get a spare old bearing housing and turn off a few thou so it's snug but not a press fit. Then you can use the old housing to press the other one in without it getting stuck and it doesn't press onto the new bearing races.
Yes all the bearing innards are the same across all the years.
Yes all the bearing innards are the same across all the years.
You can change the bearing without removing the trailing arm (not sure about A frame) using a tool like this
http://arnnworx.com/BearingTool1.htm
http://arnnworx.com/BearingTool1.htm
t that would make life easy 
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff