Discussion
Hi Mate..I know that the brake master cylinder is off of a Cortina mk4/5 and the servo from an early capri or mk3/4 cortina but the push rod that is connected to the brake pedal has been modified by TVR..At least it is on my 280.
I cant remember what was suggested to me a little while back but i will find out today, I think it was a fiesta but dont hold me to it until i find out which one...Cheers..Ziga
I cant remember what was suggested to me a little while back but i will find out today, I think it was a fiesta but dont hold me to it until i find out which one...Cheers..Ziga
Hi, as Zig says, the M/C is probably of Cortina 5 (82-88)
Did follow your brake thread, and if you looking to change the M/C to cure this, do think you are mistaken....as its a case of brake-fade (typical on a track/down a mountain, but in this cases due to binding brakes.........)
First up are the pistons in the calipers at the rear, understand they are hard to get at (I do not own a wedge....unfortunately) so....lowly maintained. BTW, you don't need new calipers, but a set of s/s pistons/seals and dust-cap
reading your posts, I would be suspicious of the front brake pistons as well.
Secondly, if your brake fluid is old (older then 3 years) it will attract moisture (cos its hygroscopic) and should be changed as in asap (good indication; tea-like colour)
Lastly the flex brake lines could be faulty through the moistue in the fluid (if they are old, change!)
Do appreciate the above is going to be the best part of £300, but we are talking safety here....
IOW, buy parts, find friendly neighbour/mate/uncle with a pit/lift and get spannering
Did follow your brake thread, and if you looking to change the M/C to cure this, do think you are mistaken....as its a case of brake-fade (typical on a track/down a mountain, but in this cases due to binding brakes.........)
First up are the pistons in the calipers at the rear, understand they are hard to get at (I do not own a wedge....unfortunately) so....lowly maintained. BTW, you don't need new calipers, but a set of s/s pistons/seals and dust-cap
reading your posts, I would be suspicious of the front brake pistons as well.
Secondly, if your brake fluid is old (older then 3 years) it will attract moisture (cos its hygroscopic) and should be changed as in asap (good indication; tea-like colour)
Lastly the flex brake lines could be faulty through the moistue in the fluid (if they are old, change!)
Do appreciate the above is going to be the best part of £300, but we are talking safety here....
IOW, buy parts, find friendly neighbour/mate/uncle with a pit/lift and get spannering
bluezeeland said:
Hi, as Zig says, the M/C is probably of Cortina 5 (82-88)
Did follow your brake thread, and if you looking to change the M/C to cure this, do think you are mistaken....as its a case of brake-fade (typical on a track/down a mountain, but in this cases due to binding brakes.........)
First up are the pistons in the calipers at the rear, understand they are hard to get at (I do not own a wedge....unfortunately) so....lowly maintained. BTW, you don't need new calipers, but a set of s/s pistons/seals and dust-cap
reading your posts, I would be suspicious of the front brake pistons as well.
Secondly, if your brake fluid is old (older then 3 years) it will attract moisture (cos its hygroscopic) and should be changed as in asap (good indication; tea-like colour)
Lastly the flex brake lines could be faulty through the moistue in the fluid (if they are old, change!)
Do appreciate the above is going to be the best part of £300, but we are talking safety here....
IOW, buy parts, find friendly neighbour/mate/uncle with a pit/lift and get spannering
Thanks for his mate, it's actually more like what I first thought.. Did follow your brake thread, and if you looking to change the M/C to cure this, do think you are mistaken....as its a case of brake-fade (typical on a track/down a mountain, but in this cases due to binding brakes.........)
First up are the pistons in the calipers at the rear, understand they are hard to get at (I do not own a wedge....unfortunately) so....lowly maintained. BTW, you don't need new calipers, but a set of s/s pistons/seals and dust-cap
reading your posts, I would be suspicious of the front brake pistons as well.
Secondly, if your brake fluid is old (older then 3 years) it will attract moisture (cos its hygroscopic) and should be changed as in asap (good indication; tea-like colour)
Lastly the flex brake lines could be faulty through the moistue in the fluid (if they are old, change!)
Do appreciate the above is going to be the best part of £300, but we are talking safety here....
IOW, buy parts, find friendly neighbour/mate/uncle with a pit/lift and get spannering
Would you know if the flexible hose is from a Jag XJS/XJ6 like the calapers?
As they arent too pricey.. I do already have a new set of seals.. But not the pistons,
Obviously while anything like this is being done a good bleed a new fluid will be done,
I'm getting a friend of the family to look at it for me, he's a good mechanic, but just thought it maybe cheaper to buy new calapers, than pistons and get him to strip and rebuild?
I could always buy the pistons at a later date and rebuild them and sell them I guess!
The servo is off a Mk 4/5 Cortina 1600 / Mk3 Capri 1600, but as Zig says the push rod from the brake pedal was modified by TVR.
Note that the 1600 servo's are smaller, 2.0, 2.8, 3.0 etc. servo's won't fit as they're bigger in overall circumference and foul on the bodywork directly underneath. The throttle cable would also need to be re-routed.
Note that the 1600 servo's are smaller, 2.0, 2.8, 3.0 etc. servo's won't fit as they're bigger in overall circumference and foul on the bodywork directly underneath. The throttle cable would also need to be re-routed.
Hi mate...As mentioned ward engineering are good value..The only thing you need to be careful of on the rear calipers is un-doing the bleed nipples, They can just snap off and are a bugger but a squirt of WD40 a few times should help to free them up, Also with ward engineering i believe they will only take working calipers in exchange..i:e If anything is seized they wont accept them..I might be wrong but im sure thats what i read...Ziga
Cheers Guys.. I've found a ace on EBay that do remanufactured units (no exchange)
£80.00 a side.. Is there a year if XJ they calapers are off?
Just confused Zig.. If the old Units need to be in working order why would you be exchanging em??
Not bad business might give it s go! Ha ha 😄
£80.00 a side.. Is there a year if XJ they calapers are off?
Just confused Zig.. If the old Units need to be in working order why would you be exchanging em??
Not bad business might give it s go! Ha ha 😄
Hi Rik,
Some info on flexes
http://www.brake-lines.co.uk/hel-brake-lines-for-t...
the pistons(+seal/cap) are 10-15 a piston (bng-barrett')
If you are not familiar with reconning them, try to google 'how to', or pm me (its really simple, after the first one..........)
i've done this twice on my M', its a bit of a job, but not anywhere hard....(requires a small compressor and a block of soft wood)
Funny this actually, you wedge peeps are running into repairs/maintainance us old 'classic' buggers have grown used to for years !
grtz
Frank
Some info on flexes
http://www.brake-lines.co.uk/hel-brake-lines-for-t...
the pistons(+seal/cap) are 10-15 a piston (bng-barrett')
If you are not familiar with reconning them, try to google 'how to', or pm me (its really simple, after the first one..........)
i've done this twice on my M', its a bit of a job, but not anywhere hard....(requires a small compressor and a block of soft wood)
Funny this actually, you wedge peeps are running into repairs/maintainance us old 'classic' buggers have grown used to for years !
grtz
Frank
Thanks very much for this..
I'm actually having a friend of the family do the job, mainly because its gonna be to hard to access without a ramp, there has been a few suggestions on how to, without a ramp, but I'm not wanting to risk it with brakes.
I'm guessing a mechanic will sort the Callipers if I supply the bits.
The hoses seem to be 4 times the price than Jag XJS ones.. And I was hoping they would be the same hose, with them being XJS brakes?
Hopefully in a few weeks this will all be history, and I can get my head back into making it look nice!
Ps... I visited Antwerp about 3 years ago, lovely place, bloody cold at the time, still loved it thorough!
I'm actually having a friend of the family do the job, mainly because its gonna be to hard to access without a ramp, there has been a few suggestions on how to, without a ramp, but I'm not wanting to risk it with brakes.
I'm guessing a mechanic will sort the Callipers if I supply the bits.
The hoses seem to be 4 times the price than Jag XJS ones.. And I was hoping they would be the same hose, with them being XJS brakes?
Hopefully in a few weeks this will all be history, and I can get my head back into making it look nice!

Ps... I visited Antwerp about 3 years ago, lovely place, bloody cold at the time, still loved it thorough!
TVRIK said:
Just confused Zig.. If the old Units need to be in working order why would you be exchanging em??
Hi mate..Basically if the seals go then they are in refurbishable condition but no longer work properly...Here is their site and you will see at the bottom of the page what im talking about...Cheers..Zigahttp://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...
mrzigazaga said:
Hi mate..Basically if the seals go then they are in refurbishable condition but no longer work properly...Here is their site and you will see at the bottom of the page what im talking about...Cheers..Ziga
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...
Ah right I see the Zigmeister. Havin a guy check things out,http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...
Hopefully be razzin round in it for more than ten minutes when I get it back!
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t sorry guys... I wasn't really clear there, I know where it is on the car.