Random Questions

[gog440]

I have a raft of random questions to ask,

What sort of temperature should a v8 run at?
What rpm should it tick over at?
Does the v8 have a rev limiter? Or where is the redline
Where is the oil pressure sender and where can I buy one (it scares me when the oil pressure sits on red all the time~)
I assume the fuel level sender is in/attached to one of the tanks, which one and where do I get one.

Does anyone sell bezels for the gauges and vents, I think it would look much tidier with a chrome/aluminium bezel against the leather.
Anyone do a aluminium/chrome handbrake grip? mine looks like it came off an old ford and looks a bit naff.

anyone have any recommendations for cleaning the hood and rear window?




Thanks guys

edited to add

Is the handle on the back rest adjustment removeable/replaceable? Mine was looking a slightly odd shape and then my daughter accidentally broke it off! Looking at the break it had been half way broken through for years and has just failed

Edited by gog440 on Thursday 29th August 19:56

[Number 7]

gog440 said:

I have a raft of random questions to ask,

What sort of temperature should a v8 run at?
What rpm should it tick over at?
Does the v8 have a rev limiter? Or where is the redline
Where is the oil pressure sender and where can I buy one (it scares me when the oil pressure sits on red all the time~)
I assume the fuel level sender is in/attached to one of the tanks, which one and where do I get one.

Does anyone sell bezels for the gauges and vents, I think it would look much tidier with a chrome/aluminium bezel against the leather.
Anyone do a aluminium/chrome handbrake grip? mine looks like it came off an old ford and looks a bit naff.

anyone have any recommendations for cleaning the hood and rear window?




Thanks guys

edited to add

Is the handle on the back rest adjustment removeable/replaceable? Mine was looking a slightly odd shape and then my daughter accidentally broke it off! Looking at the break it had been half way broken through for years and has just failed

Edited by gog440 on Thursday 29th August 19:56

normal running temp should be around 90 deg. C - in traffic or high ambient temps, it will go higher, but the fan/s should cut in before the red. Gauges can be somewhat inaccurate. Tickover should be around 850 IIRC, but I always set mine to 1K on the basis that it circulates the water and oil slightly better. No limiter as standard. Depending on the engine variant, you could probably get it over 6K if you tried. However, there's no point: max power is around 5,200 on a 350, and a bit higher on the bigger engines - 5,500 - 5,700, and for all of them you're past peak torque at those levels. There is supposedly a natural limiting effect of hydraulic tappets, as they will have a tendency to pump up when revved high - unless you have high-rev versions of course. When you say oil pressure is on red, so you mean the warning light or the pressure gauge? You really don't wan't to be driving it without being sure it's a duff sensor. They're both down on the oil pump body. Fuel level sender is in the offside tank. Gauges notoriously wacky - just watch the level change dramatically when cornering, plus mine at least seems to permanently over read. Gauge bezels have occasionally been made up by people, but not for ages AFAIK - despite a possible demand - me included. Hood you can either brush off with a stiff brush, or clean with warm soapy water. Re-colour and proof with Renovo, who also do a plastic window cleaner which I use.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Edited by Number 7 on Thursday 29th August 20:37

[gog440]

Thanks mate.

I asked about the limiter because I got a bit giddy on an overtake and was up about the 5.5k mark yesterday.

The oil pressure gauge goes up to the red when the ignition is turned on (and before the engine starts)but the oil warning light goes out as soon as the engine fires so I am confident the sender is fked!
The fuel gauge was just going to just above 1/2 all the time but yesterday it started flicking around between zero and full and I think it might have started working.

I had heard of Renovo and was after peoples experiences (positive and otherwise)

[jon haines]

Mine runs at 80 degrees normally and about 85 in traffic, it ticks over at 900 rpm and never gets reved above 5500 rpm. The stainless or alloy handbrake or gear knob are great looking but when its hot they are not too touch and when freezing the same had both and returned to the originals even ghough they do look st!

[gog440]

I already have a shiny ally gearknob and the handbrake grip really does look st so was hoping to swap to a matching one.

Another random question, how hot does it get in the passenger compartment when you are out?
It was like a bloody sauna in there yesterday.

[400SE Dave]

Check the wires on the oil pressure sender, I had a panic when my gauage jsut dropped to zero and it just turned out to be one of the wires had come off the sender as the clip had worked lose.

Mine ticks over at 1k, on track days I always shifted at max 6k as by that point there was no additional acceleration/power

[JVaughan]

Renovo hood cleaner and colour restorer is top stuff.
You can use toothpaste (seriously) to clean the rear window, or you can buy Renovo plastic window cleaner too.

Im looking for a replacement handbrake grip too, so if you find one, let me know.

Jason

[voltage_maxx]

If it's a 3.5, they're unburstable engines and absolute turbines.
You can safely rev one out to 6k, and the bottom end will withstand occasional use up to 6.5k on a 3.5
Typically though, best progress is made by changing at 5500RPM, although holding 1st to 6k rpm will really get you rocketing away as the gear fall-back puts you bang on the power band (accompanied by chirping tyres too)

[gsx600]

I think I still have some shiny ali handbrake covers in a box somewhere, I'm away for a couple of weeks but will try an dig them out

Ta

Paul

[TVRIK]

voltage_maxx said:

If it's a 3.5, they're unburstable engines and absolute turbines.
You can safely rev one out to 6k, and the bottom end will withstand occasional use up to 6.5k on a 3.5
Typically though, best progress is made by changing at 5500RPM, although holding 1st to 6k rpm will really get you rocketing away as the gear fall-back puts you bang on the power band (accompanied by chirping tyres too)

I'm scared of pushing mine past 4.5.. I always think its gonna blow!
Still need to get used to the v8 growl I guess!
Drive a diesel daily
When ya say chirping?? The reason I ask is, I dipped my clutch and booted it, and there was like a squeak or Chirp, is that normal?

[voltage_maxx]

TVRIK said:

voltage_maxx said:

If it's a 3.5, they're unburstable engines and absolute turbines.
You can safely rev one out to 6k, and the bottom end will withstand occasional use up to 6.5k on a 3.5
Typically though, best progress is made by changing at 5500RPM, although holding 1st to 6k rpm will really get you rocketing away as the gear fall-back puts you bang on the power band (accompanied by chirping tyres too)

I'm scared of pushing mine past 4.5.. I always think its gonna blow!
Still need to get used to the v8 growl I guess!
Drive a diesel daily
When ya say chirping?? The reason I ask is, I dipped my clutch and booted it, and there was like a squeak or Chirp, is that normal?

Bloody hell, 4.5? The Vitesse cam only really starts coming on at about 3-3.5k!
The old man used to build and rally RV8s. Believe me when I say the 3.5s are unbusrtable. Even in competition they never, ever managed to throw a rod or anything nasty like that, and that was revving consistently to 6.5

Yup, the chirp is the fact that there's so much power at the back wheels, they're momentarily breaking traction
Just go steady in the wet

[TVRIK]

voltage_maxx said:

Bloody hell, 4.5? The Vitesse cam only really starts coming on at about 3-3.5k!
The old man used to build and rally RV8s. Believe me when I say the 3.5s are unbusrtable. Even in competition they never, ever managed to throw a rod or anything nasty like that, and that was revving consistently to 6.5

Yup, the chirp is the fact that there's so much power at the back wheels, they're momentarily breaking traction
Just go steady in the wet

Bloody hell Bob your a handy bloke to know.
You have really put my mind at rest there, I thought there was something wrong.
Hope ya don't mind me askin.. My oil pressure is acting a bit odd, it starts at 3 and gradually rises to 5 but when reved or driven it drops, but when you pull up to the lights etc it rises again.
Better than low pressure I know but just seems odd to me??

[carob]

The hood a tin of black boot polish and a sponge from your supermarket £1. Apply in straight lines . you will be amazed.

Rear window, although never tried, I have heard of brasso and duraglit works a treat. Same again about £1.

[MrPicky]

The engine temp should depend on the temp of the thermostat. There are 88 degree stats and 82 degree stats.

If you have a fairly standard EFi engine then you should stick to an 88 degree one because the fuel is metered for that temp when fully warm, modified and carb engines can run with 82 degrees to give an extra bit of overhead - but if things are that marginal you should be looking at a better radiator.

The fans should cut in around 95 degrees and one of the best modifications you can make is to put a switch (and a big warning lamp) so you can think ahead and manually switch on the fans when coming to a halt after coming off the motorway.

The oil sender sounds like a connection problem. Take the connector off at the sender end and see what changes. If the oil pressure light is behaving as you describe then there isn't a lot wrong.

Oil level was provided on the Rover SD1 but I have never seen a TVR with one, they all have convenient dipsticks.

Russ

[adam quantrill]

A bit late now (for a pre-buying check) but this is a test you can do for the engine temp:

After your next run park it on the drive and let it idle.
Observe the engine temp rise.
Note that the fans cut in - this may be before or just after the red depending on gauge accuracy.
Leave it idling - the temp should come back down to 90-95C.
The fans will turn off. The cycle should repeat and there shouldn't be any leaks or fluid dumping.

[TVRIK]

gog440 said:

I have a raft of random questions to ask,

What sort of temperature should a v8 run at?
What rpm should it tick over at?
Does the v8 have a rev limiter? Or where is the redline
Where is the oil pressure sender and where can I buy one (it scares me when the oil pressure sits on red all the time~)
I assume the fuel level sender is in/attached to one of the tanks, which one and where do I get one.

Does anyone sell bezels for the gauges and vents, I think it would look much tidier with a chrome/aluminium bezel against the leather.
Anyone do a aluminium/chrome handbrake grip? mine looks like it came off an old ford and looks a bit naff.

anyone have any recommendations for cleaning the hood and rear window?




Thanks guys

edited to add

Is the handle on the back rest adjustment removeable/replaceable? Mine was looking a slightly odd shape and then my daughter accidentally broke it off! Looking at the break it had been half way broken through for years and has just failed

Edited by gog440 on Thursday 29th August 19:56

This any good?

[mrzigazaga]

gog440 said:

how hot does it get in the passenger compartment when you are out?
It was like a bloody sauna in there yesterday.

Hi Mate..What you have to remember is that the heat generated by the engine is either pushed by the rad fan or when you are moving into the transmission tunnel and so the car does get pretty hot inside, I disconnected my heater pipes for two years and even driving around in winter my wedge was well toastie...Also makes sure that all your vents are closed as this can let in hot air..Mind you some of the floor vents are just a pipe behind the trim and have no vent as such..If the flap that seals it all up is naff inside which it probably will be then that dont help either...Saying all that Wedges are still cool..Ziga

[gog440]

gsx600 said:

I think I still have some shiny ali handbrake covers in a box somewhere, I'm away for a couple of weeks but will try an dig them out

Ta

Paul

That would be fantastic

[JVaughan]

gog440 said:

gsx600 said:

I think I still have some shiny ali handbrake covers in a box somewhere, I'm away for a couple of weeks but will try an dig them out

Ta

Paul

That would be fantastic

Me too please

[gog440]

mrzigazaga said:

Hi Mate..What you have to remember is that the heat generated by the engine is either pushed by the rad fan or when you are moving into the transmission tunnel and so the car does get pretty hot inside, I disconnected my heater pipes for two years and even driving around in winter my wedge was well toastie...Also makes sure that all your vents are closed as this can let in hot air..Mind you some of the floor vents are just a pipe behind the trim and have no vent as such..If the flap that seals it all up is naff inside which it probably will be then that dont help either...Saying all that Wedges are still cool..Ziga

Cheers mate, it just seemed hotter in the v8 than it did in the v6.