Problems problems
Discussion
It's a TVR so there's gonna be teething issues!
Brake squeal - christ it's making me grind my teeth. Seems he's got a set of fast road pads at the front (granada 2 pot callipers) and once they warm up a bit on light duty they squeal like a piggy boy!
Copper slip on the back plate?
Missing on wide open throttle - the car really hasn't had much use but it seems to hiccup and miss on full throttle. light to medium response is great and as expected. No ignition amp on this one as it's a John Eales flapper engine. It's had new leads but haven't been back through receipts to see when it last had service (all by previous owner). Not had rotor or cap. Might even be running rich - wondering about new dizzy and pokey electronic ignition plus plugs and full service.
This cockpit fan thing - is there any way on gods earth you can coax it into delivering cool air? I seem to have the option of hot or farking hot!! Maybe a ducting solution?
Brake squeal - christ it's making me grind my teeth. Seems he's got a set of fast road pads at the front (granada 2 pot callipers) and once they warm up a bit on light duty they squeal like a piggy boy!
Copper slip on the back plate?
Missing on wide open throttle - the car really hasn't had much use but it seems to hiccup and miss on full throttle. light to medium response is great and as expected. No ignition amp on this one as it's a John Eales flapper engine. It's had new leads but haven't been back through receipts to see when it last had service (all by previous owner). Not had rotor or cap. Might even be running rich - wondering about new dizzy and pokey electronic ignition plus plugs and full service.
This cockpit fan thing - is there any way on gods earth you can coax it into delivering cool air? I seem to have the option of hot or farking hot!! Maybe a ducting solution?
Now you sound like a wedge owner...
..Sorry that i can be of much help as regards to the V8 issues but i think i will set up some more Bookmarks as i have seen all the symptoms you are describing over the past..... 
...3 years...If you can get cool air coming out of the vents then your Wedge if not TVR will become very sort after...
..Sometime the airbox construction that houses the fan motor leaves a lot to be desired..Its probably leaking around the flaps..ooo missus...Ziga
..Sorry that i can be of much help as regards to the V8 issues but i think i will set up some more Bookmarks as i have seen all the symptoms you are describing over the past..... ...3 years...If you can get cool air coming out of the vents then your Wedge if not TVR will become very sort after.....Sometime the airbox construction that houses the fan motor leaves a lot to be desired..Its probably leaking around the flaps..ooo missus...Zigaadam quantrill said:
Brakes - copaslip or anti-rattle pads.
I would try a new dizzy cap first I changed mine and it improved no end. Then the rotor arm after that.
As for the fan wait for winter - then it'll be either cold or lukewarm!
+1 be glad you're getting some heat, (if nothing else it's helping cool the engine?) mine has 2 settings, OFF and "is it working?", Finding and fixing the "issues" is part of the "fun" of wedge ownership.I would try a new dizzy cap first I changed mine and it improved no end. Then the rotor arm after that.
As for the fan wait for winter - then it'll be either cold or lukewarm!
There are plenty of people on here (and the TVRCC if you want to pay to join) who can help you out.
Whilst at the time I often get REALLY peeved with a fault, the times when its working well more than make up for it.
I know it sounds nuts, but...
Are the pads symmetric ? If so, try putting them in the other way around (i.e. swopped over and therefore upside down from where they are now). I had that problem with a Triumph once (PB16 calipers) and it completely fixed it.
I know, I know, it shouldn't make any difference at all - but it DID !
Are the pads symmetric ? If so, try putting them in the other way around (i.e. swopped over and therefore upside down from where they are now). I had that problem with a Triumph once (PB16 calipers) and it completely fixed it.
I know, I know, it shouldn't make any difference at all - but it DID !
Edited by RCK974X on Monday 2nd September 01:04
smash said:
OK will do - if it's anything like the ones on some of the minis I've had they can seize up.
Or the clip that holds the outer has gone or not secure, or the screw that hold the wire is slack. Might even be behind the dash (the wire connection adrift not the valve). Think I bought one from Frost or Vehicle wiring products or Car builder solutions as a spare. (cannot remember the firm but off the shelf for a few quid).Edited by jmorgan on Monday 2nd September 06:41
Ive recently replaced the control cables on my heater. if there is a kink in the control cable, its easier to replace. Follow the advice above to verify its working.
Ive seen some people modify their heater to take a cold feed on Wedges, but this is just ducting a pipe into the cabin and sacrificing the center vents to act as cols ducts (this works but you risk getting a face full of leaves / dust if you dont put a filter inline)
Ive seen some people modify their heater to take a cold feed on Wedges, but this is just ducting a pipe into the cabin and sacrificing the center vents to act as cols ducts (this works but you risk getting a face full of leaves / dust if you dont put a filter inline)
Is there any explanation of test anywhere? I've got Steve Heath wedge book.
Yesterday huge hiccups on flooring after coasting around 30/40 just didn't react to start with an bogged then the old will she won't she routine.
In other matters started cleaning the upholstery and noticed a colour change - looks like it's had a non too permanent dye done at some stage. Now thinking best way forward is reconnelising over winter so the inside matches the outside (and underneath!).
Yesterday huge hiccups on flooring after coasting around 30/40 just didn't react to start with an bogged then the old will she won't she routine.
In other matters started cleaning the upholstery and noticed a colour change - looks like it's had a non too permanent dye done at some stage. Now thinking best way forward is reconnelising over winter so the inside matches the outside (and underneath!).
Edited by smash on Tuesday 3rd September 17:09
Edited by smash on Tuesday 3rd September 17:10
Re the Pads you may find the copperslip doesn't solve the problem
I uprated the brakes on my previous 350, with 4 pot calipers, new pads and new discs
The 1st set of pads squealed, as did the 2nd and 3rd although slightly less
The supplier then gave me grooved and drilled discs to try solve this
Tried pads No 3 squealed, pads no 2 squealed then back to no 1 and hey presto all ok ever after
I also know a friend runs his Vixen on race pads and they squeal like a pig - until warmed up
Sorry that isn't much help - just hang in there and keep trying - it's worth the wait
Cheers
Trickie
I uprated the brakes on my previous 350, with 4 pot calipers, new pads and new discs
The 1st set of pads squealed, as did the 2nd and 3rd although slightly less
The supplier then gave me grooved and drilled discs to try solve this
Tried pads No 3 squealed, pads no 2 squealed then back to no 1 and hey presto all ok ever after
I also know a friend runs his Vixen on race pads and they squeal like a pig - until warmed up
Sorry that isn't much help - just hang in there and keep trying - it's worth the wait
Cheers
Trickie
No it makes sense - I'm pretty sure he's put EBCredstuff pads on - something I did with my cerbera and had exactly the same squealing problem. OEM pads may be the way forward but I'm not sure what the calipers come off. Steve Heath Wedge book just says they are the larger of the two Granada calipers - what Granada though?
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