Discussion
HI ALL,
Here is a car that's being hiding from us all.
I have just bought a tvr 390se here in Ireland.
Its a 1989 irish car from new.
chassis and outriggers are in great condition,probably down to no salt being used
on our roads until recent years.
Two previous owners.
was originally blue but now yellow,black hood,with blue tint glass.
It has the flared arches and underfoil spoiler.
Just getting it recomissioned at present.
I need advise on some items,suppliers, new and secondhand,carpets etc.
1- carpet for floor,centre console,back shelf.
2- Both hinges for boot.
3- Rubber for both windows external.
4- glove shelf has the hinges but need internal hinge.
5- seat belts are tatty and don't return well advise.
6- new tyres have 1000 miles on them but badly cracked, what is best to replace with.
7- pair of round rubber protectors for underside of bonnet.
8- car was running rich on fuel before being stored,got new fuel regulator and injectors with the sale/not fitted yet,
will this solve the problem.
9- the coil is reading normal charge on entry and high on exit,
engine turn over but wont start,wrong coil maybe.
It also guzzles petrol starting.
all above technical queries may be wrong and are based on a brief chat with my mechanic.
All help on problem solving,part suppliers new or s/hand,and rough cost would be a great help and much appreciated.
will send photos shortly.
Here is a car that's being hiding from us all.
I have just bought a tvr 390se here in Ireland.
Its a 1989 irish car from new.
chassis and outriggers are in great condition,probably down to no salt being used
on our roads until recent years.
Two previous owners.
was originally blue but now yellow,black hood,with blue tint glass.
It has the flared arches and underfoil spoiler.
Just getting it recomissioned at present.
I need advise on some items,suppliers, new and secondhand,carpets etc.
1- carpet for floor,centre console,back shelf.
2- Both hinges for boot.
3- Rubber for both windows external.
4- glove shelf has the hinges but need internal hinge.
5- seat belts are tatty and don't return well advise.
6- new tyres have 1000 miles on them but badly cracked, what is best to replace with.
7- pair of round rubber protectors for underside of bonnet.
8- car was running rich on fuel before being stored,got new fuel regulator and injectors with the sale/not fitted yet,
will this solve the problem.
9- the coil is reading normal charge on entry and high on exit,
engine turn over but wont start,wrong coil maybe.
It also guzzles petrol starting.
all above technical queries may be wrong and are based on a brief chat with my mechanic.
All help on problem solving,part suppliers new or s/hand,and rough cost would be a great help and much appreciated.
will send photos shortly.
HI,
bodywork and paint is v good,
engine and gearbox fine.
needs good clean up on interior,bits of trim etc, and new carpets.
delighted with it hope to have engine starting by next week.
Hit lucky with a decent seller no messing.
Looking for one of these since 87,that I could afford.
On price it was a great buy,needs about 1000 euro spent.
I have a 79 450slc was going to swap but dug deep and will keep both.
bodywork and paint is v good,
engine and gearbox fine.
needs good clean up on interior,bits of trim etc, and new carpets.
delighted with it hope to have engine starting by next week.
Hit lucky with a decent seller no messing.
Looking for one of these since 87,that I could afford.
On price it was a great buy,needs about 1000 euro spent.
I have a 79 450slc was going to swap but dug deep and will keep both.
gary390se said:
1- carpet for floor,centre console,back shelf.
2- Both hinges for boot.
3- Rubber for both windows external.
4- glove shelf has the hinges but need internal hinge.
5- seat belts are tatty and don't return well advise.
6- new tyres have 1000 miles on them but badly cracked, what is best to replace with.
7- pair of round rubber protectors for underside of bonnet.
8- car was running rich on fuel before being stored,got new fuel regulator and injectors with the sale/not fitted yet,
will this solve the problem.
9- the coil is reading normal charge on entry and high on exit,
engine turn over but wont start,wrong coil maybe.
It also guzzles petrol starting.
all above technical queries may be wrong and are based on a brief chat with my mechanic.
All help on problem solving,part suppliers new or s/hand,and rough cost would be a great help and much appreciated.
will send photos shortly.
2. Hillman Imp.2- Both hinges for boot.
3- Rubber for both windows external.
4- glove shelf has the hinges but need internal hinge.
5- seat belts are tatty and don't return well advise.
6- new tyres have 1000 miles on them but badly cracked, what is best to replace with.
7- pair of round rubber protectors for underside of bonnet.
8- car was running rich on fuel before being stored,got new fuel regulator and injectors with the sale/not fitted yet,
will this solve the problem.
9- the coil is reading normal charge on entry and high on exit,
engine turn over but wont start,wrong coil maybe.
It also guzzles petrol starting.
all above technical queries may be wrong and are based on a brief chat with my mechanic.
All help on problem solving,part suppliers new or s/hand,and rough cost would be a great help and much appreciated.
will send photos shortly.
3. Woolies, Paul Beck Vintage Supplies, Edgeware Motors all stock rubber profiles that will fit.
5. They rub against the (probably rusty) steel tube that crosses the cabin behind the seats, which chafes the belts. If they need replacing there have been threads about it here recently but classic Mini ones fit. Someone on Ebay sells new Securon ones for about thirty quid. Wrap some vinyl around the tube to improve the return, it's a design cock-up.
6. Correct size is 225/55-15 if on original wheels. Not many makers do that size anymore, arguments will run and run over which is 'best'. I use some cheap sh!t and drive accordingly.
8. Could be a number of things and depends on who's been messing with it. Don't go swapping injection system parts willy-nilly, the 390SE is NOT standard Rover V8 tune. Could be dry solder joints in the ECU or various other problems but I'd have that checked first.
9. Don't understand what you're saying about the coil. Do you mean you have sparks? Injectors are likely to be blocked if it's been stood without starting for a while.
Wedg1e said:
gary390se said:
1- carpet for floor,centre console,back shelf.
2- Both hinges for boot.
3- Rubber for both windows external.
4- glove shelf has the hinges but need internal hinge.
5- seat belts are tatty and don't return well advise.
6- new tyres have 1000 miles on them but badly cracked, what is best to replace with.
7- pair of round rubber protectors for underside of bonnet.
8- car was running rich on fuel before being stored,got new fuel regulator and injectors with the sale/not fitted yet,
will this solve the problem.
9- the coil is reading normal charge on entry and high on exit,
engine turn over but wont start,wrong coil maybe.
It also guzzles petrol starting.
all above technical queries may be wrong and are based on a brief chat with my mechanic.
All help on problem solving,part suppliers new or s/hand,and rough cost would be a great help and much appreciated.
will send photos shortly.
2. Hillman Imp.2- Both hinges for boot.
3- Rubber for both windows external.
4- glove shelf has the hinges but need internal hinge.
5- seat belts are tatty and don't return well advise.
6- new tyres have 1000 miles on them but badly cracked, what is best to replace with.
7- pair of round rubber protectors for underside of bonnet.
8- car was running rich on fuel before being stored,got new fuel regulator and injectors with the sale/not fitted yet,
will this solve the problem.
9- the coil is reading normal charge on entry and high on exit,
engine turn over but wont start,wrong coil maybe.
It also guzzles petrol starting.
all above technical queries may be wrong and are based on a brief chat with my mechanic.
All help on problem solving,part suppliers new or s/hand,and rough cost would be a great help and much appreciated.
will send photos shortly.
3. Woolies, Paul Beck Vintage Supplies, Edgeware Motors all stock rubber profiles that will fit.
5. They rub against the (probably rusty) steel tube that crosses the cabin behind the seats, which chafes the belts. If they need replacing there have been threads about it here recently but classic Mini ones fit. Someone on Ebay sells new Securon ones for about thirty quid. Wrap some vinyl around the tube to improve the return, it's a design cock-up.
6. Correct size is 225/55-15 if on original wheels. Not many makers do that size anymore, arguments will run and run over which is 'best'. I use some cheap sh!t and drive accordingly.
8. Could be a number of things and depends on who's been messing with it. Don't go swapping injection system parts willy-nilly, the 390SE is NOT standard Rover V8 tune. Could be dry solder joints in the ECU or various other problems but I'd have that checked first.
9. Don't understand what you're saying about the coil. Do you mean you have sparks? Injectors are likely to be blocked if it's been stood without starting for a while.
When Wedg1e say 'drive accordingly' he means 'irrelevant of what tyre is on it, drive it like its stolen'
Cant help with much else, sorry!
Stu
Thanks for replies lads that will get me started.
On the coil issue I have a spark,engine turns so blocked injectors will be a good bet.
On the driving I had a 280s and that was hard to resist givin it socks,
this motor will sort the man from the boys,
roll on next summer.
On the coil issue I have a spark,engine turns so blocked injectors will be a good bet.
On the driving I had a 280s and that was hard to resist givin it socks,
this motor will sort the man from the boys,
roll on next summer.
Edited by gary390se on Monday 2nd September 21:22
If it guzzles petrol cranking it's unlikely the injectors are blocked! Does the exhaust stink of fuel?
By now you probably have wet plugs. Try/check the Engine Temperature Sensor (that tells the ECU what temperature it is) first - it's easier to change then fix the ECU. A blocked fuel regulator could also cause problems here - changing with the spare won't take long (but be careful to depressurize the fuel system).
What diagnostic equipment do you have handy? An oscilloscope is very useful.
By now you probably have wet plugs. Try/check the Engine Temperature Sensor (that tells the ECU what temperature it is) first - it's easier to change then fix the ECU. A blocked fuel regulator could also cause problems here - changing with the spare won't take long (but be careful to depressurize the fuel system).
What diagnostic equipment do you have handy? An oscilloscope is very useful.
adam quantrill said:
If it guzzles petrol cranking it's unlikely the injectors are blocked! Does the exhaust stink of fuel?
Good point. You'd think if the cold start injector is still fitted and firing away, it would at least try to catch. The ECU could be switching one bank of injectors hard on (the old blown output transistor gag
) which would be tantamount to emptying a jerrycan into the plenum...
adam quantrill said:
Possible - pull all 4 injector connectors on one side and do the "throttle tweak" - you should hear the connected bank "click". Then repeat over on the other bank. That was you can test ECU operation (at least to the drivers) one bank at a time.
Up there for thinking, down here for dancing 
We'll make a techie out of you yet
It is you that's an accountant, isn't it? 
Fitting the regulator will bring down the mixture normally runs about the 38psi..pull the plugs and check if wet . If dry try the contacts on the rectifier pack on the n/s wing that can have an effect on the injectors firing. Apart from that it may be a check of wiring from the Ecu to the injectors.
HI,
Heres where im at,we have power coming to the coil but no spark on the lead which
goes to the distributor.
Got the coil tested this morning and its working fine.
The lead to the distributor seems to be quite new.
There is a loose wire going back towards the starter ????
We are thinking the icu could have dry solder joints.
The coil will be fitted back tomorrow and I might get a auto electrician to go through the wiring and see have we got a problem there.
the car was last tested in 2006 so it was stored for a long period.
Heres where im at,we have power coming to the coil but no spark on the lead which
goes to the distributor.
Got the coil tested this morning and its working fine.
The lead to the distributor seems to be quite new.
There is a loose wire going back towards the starter ????
We are thinking the icu could have dry solder joints.
The coil will be fitted back tomorrow and I might get a auto electrician to go through the wiring and see have we got a problem there.
the car was last tested in 2006 so it was stored for a long period.
Edited by gary390se on Monday 16th September 20:43
HI,
The engine is turning but no spark coming from coil lead to distributor so he thinks it could be electrical problem/ecu.
I will get a ecumat and plug into the ecu and see what that tells us.
The auto electrician will have a look through the wiring also see if that throws up anything.
The engine is turning but no spark coming from coil lead to distributor so he thinks it could be electrical problem/ecu.
I will get a ecumat and plug into the ecu and see what that tells us.
The auto electrician will have a look through the wiring also see if that throws up anything.
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