More wedge questions.
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I'm going to re torque the heads and do the tappets this weekend, any tips, advice or things to watch out for would be much appreciated.
Also I had a hose blow off today while driving, steam came out of everywhere, bonnet, dashboard and even the gear stick! The hose in question goes into the body just behind the passenger side dashboard. I'm assuming its the windscreen heater? There's a return pipe on the other side that goes to the radiator. It's in poor condition and could do with being replaced, is it a big job?
The cooling system still bemuses me, is there a reservoir and expansion tank? If there is its we'll hidden. How do I check if I have enough coolant?
The car has been idling at about 2000, seems a bit high and it wavers up and down. It's slightly better since I repaired that hose. Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance everyone, I would never have bought this car if this forum wasn't here. On a side not it felt really good to fix my first snag today
I've a list as long as my arm now but I love driving this thing so it doesn't daunt me. Hi mate..That pipe is part of the heater matrix and shouldnt be too much grief to replace the hoses although im not sure what reg yours is and if it has the later style centre console.
You should see an expansion tank as thats what the passenger side matrix pipe is tee'd into..Or at least it is on my 1982 280i...
The idle is a bit too high..It could be a sticking auxillary air device, They can be removed and cleaned with some brake & clutch cleaner or carb cleaner and then tested with a heat gun gently warming it up to see if the plate inside the diaphragm that is visible through the pipe connection openings is closing.. Then it can be left to cool or wrapped in kitchen towel and placed in the fridge for a couple of minutes and then check if it opening again..Make sure the hoses are tight enough on the two ends as that can cause a leak..See if the idle drops after checking the auxillary air device before adjusting the idle screw.
Trying to upload pics but i cant??...Ziga
You should see an expansion tank as thats what the passenger side matrix pipe is tee'd into..Or at least it is on my 1982 280i...
The idle is a bit too high..It could be a sticking auxillary air device, They can be removed and cleaned with some brake & clutch cleaner or carb cleaner and then tested with a heat gun gently warming it up to see if the plate inside the diaphragm that is visible through the pipe connection openings is closing.. Then it can be left to cool or wrapped in kitchen towel and placed in the fridge for a couple of minutes and then check if it opening again..Make sure the hoses are tight enough on the two ends as that can cause a leak..See if the idle drops after checking the auxillary air device before adjusting the idle screw.
Trying to upload pics but i cant??...Ziga
Cheers Ziga,
Turns out I have an older model engine with no expansion tank. I topped up the rad, ran her for a bit and when the bubbles stopped I popped the cap back on. Temperature is stable now even when driving hard (holy crap this thing can pull, can't imagine what Delilah is like).
So this auxiliary air doo dah, where would I find that? I shall be buying carb cleaner in the morn.
Turns out I have an older model engine with no expansion tank. I topped up the rad, ran her for a bit and when the bubbles stopped I popped the cap back on. Temperature is stable now even when driving hard (holy crap this thing can pull, can't imagine what Delilah is like).
So this auxiliary air doo dah, where would I find that? I shall be buying carb cleaner in the morn.
Assuming it's a 2.8 ....
Common causes of high idle are a leak in the big hose between the fuel manifold and the engine - don't be surprised if you need to change fuel mixture if you fix this. (there is an adjustment on the fuel metering head, but it's just a hole, not very obvious). Other common one is gummed up idle valve (as Zig says).
Confusion over the rubber hoses is because there are quite a few air ones as well as water.
As Zig says, heater matrix is behind bulkhead, and so is the hot/cold valve, so you can only see two pipes (in and out) through the bulkhead.
There should be an expansion tank on passenger side, detail plumbing arrangemnets vary a bit by year, but trace them through and you should get to see that all the water pipes eventually connect to either thermostat housing (BOTTOM of engine - Yes, not common), or to front water outlet at top. All other pipes are AIR ones, most obvious is cold idle valve at front.
If you can find a workshop manual for 2.8i Capri, Granada II (pre 1985), or Sierra XR4 (pre 85)
then that should give a guide as to what's what...
DON'T overtighten valve clearances, if anything leave them a little slack - Cologne engines do tend to rattle a bit on the valves, and they like it that way !
Common causes of high idle are a leak in the big hose between the fuel manifold and the engine - don't be surprised if you need to change fuel mixture if you fix this. (there is an adjustment on the fuel metering head, but it's just a hole, not very obvious). Other common one is gummed up idle valve (as Zig says).
Confusion over the rubber hoses is because there are quite a few air ones as well as water.
As Zig says, heater matrix is behind bulkhead, and so is the hot/cold valve, so you can only see two pipes (in and out) through the bulkhead.
There should be an expansion tank on passenger side, detail plumbing arrangemnets vary a bit by year, but trace them through and you should get to see that all the water pipes eventually connect to either thermostat housing (BOTTOM of engine - Yes, not common), or to front water outlet at top. All other pipes are AIR ones, most obvious is cold idle valve at front.
If you can find a workshop manual for 2.8i Capri, Granada II (pre 1985), or Sierra XR4 (pre 85)
then that should give a guide as to what's what...
DON'T overtighten valve clearances, if anything leave them a little slack - Cologne engines do tend to rattle a bit on the valves, and they like it that way !
Thanks Andy,
As luck would have it my Capri haynes manual arrived while I was at work. I'll have a really good look at this tomorrow and hopefully get it all sorted. There's no harm I guess in checking all the hoses anyway. I will probably replace them all eventually but for now there are more pressing items on the agenda.
As luck would have it my Capri haynes manual arrived while I was at work. I'll have a really good look at this tomorrow and hopefully get it all sorted. There's no harm I guess in checking all the hoses anyway. I will probably replace them all eventually but for now there are more pressing items on the agenda.
No worries - study the manual to get an idea of how the injection works and meters fuel - that's the key to understanding what those extra modules on the engine actually do...
Then we can help with stuff like high idle speed.
e.g. a quick test to see if idle valve stuck is to compress the air pipe between the module and the throttle with your fingers, so cutting off any air flow - if idle speed drops, then chances are the valve is stuck (carb cleaner etc...)
Then we can help with stuff like high idle speed.
e.g. a quick test to see if idle valve stuck is to compress the air pipe between the module and the throttle with your fingers, so cutting off any air flow - if idle speed drops, then chances are the valve is stuck (carb cleaner etc...)
Hi Steve
Because its one of those pesky but rare 2+2s is actually 6 inches shorter in the engine bay area, and DOES NOT HAVE SPACE for an expansion tank on the 280i model.
So give up looking for it, you'll never find it!
The head torques should be in the manual, just be aware that you will need the crows foot 19mm for one of the head bolts whilst the rockers are in place, and I went 1 thou up on the recommended clearances.
With reference to youre 'its bloody fast' comment, I reckon it would give zigs motor a run for its money, the heads on it made it sooooo much more revvy and it always felt a lot faster than my 350i, it would be great to know figures if you ever dyno it.
The idle may simply be the screw on the cable connector, wind it out and drop the revs, see if that helps?
Stu
Because its one of those pesky but rare 2+2s is actually 6 inches shorter in the engine bay area, and DOES NOT HAVE SPACE for an expansion tank on the 280i model.
So give up looking for it, you'll never find it!
The head torques should be in the manual, just be aware that you will need the crows foot 19mm for one of the head bolts whilst the rockers are in place, and I went 1 thou up on the recommended clearances.
With reference to youre 'its bloody fast' comment, I reckon it would give zigs motor a run for its money, the heads on it made it sooooo much more revvy and it always felt a lot faster than my 350i, it would be great to know figures if you ever dyno it.
The idle may simply be the screw on the cable connector, wind it out and drop the revs, see if that helps?
Stu
..
Grabbed a minute before going into work to give the pipes going into the aux air a good squeeze and it made no difference. I'll check the adjuster on the throttle on my lunch break but It looks like its almost all the way out anyway.
The other thing I've noticed is that she takes an age to warm up.
Stu I probably will pop her up on a dyno when she's sorted just out of curiosity. Any idea if halfords do crows feet?
Zig, that's a sexy looking engine, I didn't realise they allowed porn like that here
Cheers for the pic, slowly but surely I'm getting to know my way round this thing.
Andy I'll be sure to give her a bit of breathing space when doing the tappets, thanks for the tip.
The other thing I've noticed is that she takes an age to warm up.
Stu I probably will pop her up on a dyno when she's sorted just out of curiosity. Any idea if halfords do crows feet?
Zig, that's a sexy looking engine, I didn't realise they allowed porn like that here
Cheers for the pic, slowly but surely I'm getting to know my way round this thing.
Andy I'll be sure to give her a bit of breathing space when doing the tappets, thanks for the tip.
Stog said:
The adjuster on the throttle looks like its almost all the way out.
I think that should only be about 2.5 turns from its closed off position..(Fully wound in) Stog said:
The other thing I've noticed is that she takes an age to warm up.
What do you mean by an age?..Are the revs higher and then drop or do they take ages to drop?..Could be a sticking Air device. Stog said:
Zig, that's a sexy looking engine, I didn't realise they allowed porn like that here
Thanks..But ssshhh..If the mods know we are looking at porn they will close the topic..
Cheers..Ziga
Right so adjusting that little screw a little big makes a HUGE difference!
Now it's idling away at 1000 I can hear what else is going on in the engine bay. So she is a little chuggy and I can hear a definite ssshhhhhh sound that changes pitch when I put my hand around the hose leading into the os of the auxiliary air device. When I think about it she doesn't change revs much hot or cold so I think I found the culprit. That would make sense tha pinching the hose makes no difference if its leaking. I examined it, looks fine and tightened it but the sound is still there so I'll just replace it and clean the device anyway.
There's also a rubbing noise, kinda like a scraping sound from the rear end when I move, I'll jack her up and inspect closer over the weeken. Is there anything common? Handbrake? It seems to work surprisingly good for a 30 year old car.
Now it's idling away at 1000 I can hear what else is going on in the engine bay. So she is a little chuggy and I can hear a definite ssshhhhhh sound that changes pitch when I put my hand around the hose leading into the os of the auxiliary air device. When I think about it she doesn't change revs much hot or cold so I think I found the culprit. That would make sense tha pinching the hose makes no difference if its leaking. I examined it, looks fine and tightened it but the sound is still there so I'll just replace it and clean the device anyway.
There's also a rubbing noise, kinda like a scraping sound from the rear end when I move, I'll jack her up and inspect closer over the weeken. Is there anything common? Handbrake? It seems to work surprisingly good for a 30 year old car.
Hey Stog, be careful when removing the hoses where they attach to the heater matrix; they are probably seized on- after the clips are off-resist the temptation to try & grab the hose with pliers in this area as you are likely to crush the matrix tubing beneath. if you can reach- try slitting axially with a sharp knife on both side- should be easier to peel it off. Smear washing up liquid onto the connections before you fit the new ones (with new clips of course!)
Hi Mate..Scraping or rubbing could be slightly sticky rear calipers, Warped disc's..Check for any play in the trailing arm mounts, Prop and UJ's and the hub nuts if you have a socket big enough and a good 3ft torque wrench that goes up to 250lbs, You will need 234lbs!..It might just be the case that the car has become a little settled due to it sitting about for a time..It does sound like the hose is leaking, Check for condition of all hoses..The AAD is supposed to have a raised ring on the openings so that the hose grips better but these can become worn off and getting pipe to grip can be difficult, There is a company who can refurbed pretty much most parts like the AAD..WUR..(Warm up reg)...Metering head and supply a new accumulator if needed...Obviously these parts are not the cheapest but are specialist and worth the money..I can forward the details if needed..Cheers..Ziga
All good advice - sorry about the expansion tank - didn't realise it was a 2+2.
Those aux air devices do typically roar a bit, so don't be too worried. It should get quieter when hot, but I can still hear mine, even when hot (which means it's probably leaking a little bit, but my idle is happy at 850 rpm, so I don't care !)
NB. the little screw on the top is NOT supposed to be the idle speed adjuster, but a safety stop for the throttle plate. The real adjuster is the big screw underneath, which is not very visible. A lot of people do adjust the top screw, because it's so obvious..
I assume the crows feet reference is the later type bolts with the six point star drive - these are a standard type, and should be available from local car shop - don't get cheapest ones though, as they can round off and ruin the bolts....
Those aux air devices do typically roar a bit, so don't be too worried. It should get quieter when hot, but I can still hear mine, even when hot (which means it's probably leaking a little bit, but my idle is happy at 850 rpm, so I don't care !)
NB. the little screw on the top is NOT supposed to be the idle speed adjuster, but a safety stop for the throttle plate. The real adjuster is the big screw underneath, which is not very visible. A lot of people do adjust the top screw, because it's so obvious..
I assume the crows feet reference is the later type bolts with the six point star drive - these are a standard type, and should be available from local car shop - don't get cheapest ones though, as they can round off and ruin the bolts....
Edited by RCK974X on Friday 13th September 22:46
mrzigazaga said:
Hi Mate..Scraping or rubbing could be slightly sticky rear calipers, Warped disc's..Check for any play in the trailing arm mounts, Prop and UJ's and the hub nuts if you have a socket big enough and a good 3ft torque wrench that goes up to 250lbs, You will need 234lbs!..It might just be the case that the car has become a little settled due to it sitting about for a time..It does sound like the hose is leaking, Check for condition of all hoses..The AAD is supposed to have a raised ring on the openings so that the hose grips better but these can become worn off and getting pipe to grip can be difficult, There is a company who can refurbed pretty much most parts like the AAD..WUR..(Warm up reg)...Metering head and supply a new accumulator if needed...Obviously these parts are not the cheapest but are specialist and worth the money..I can forward the details if needed..Cheers..Ziga
The rear hubs are fine Zig, stop panicking the poor fella!!!!Itll be the rear calipers Steve, as its sat for a while they probaly need a bit of freeing off, and the handbrake has been 'adjusted' to give a good operation, mostly by placing a shim on the cable adjustment to get better movement.
Itll work forever now!
Stu
Oh, and the crows feet are the normal 19mm type for the head bolts, available at halfords, and you only need it for 1 bolt as the rest are accesible.
Make sure you do it though, as this is one of the most common reasons for the cologne to pop head gaskets as people get to the point of no return witout a crows foot spanner and leave it.
Stu
Make sure you do it though, as this is one of the most common reasons for the cologne to pop head gaskets as people get to the point of no return witout a crows foot spanner and leave it.
Stu
Progress report and yet more questions.
Not much progress unfortunately, couldn't get a crows foot anywhere so I've ordered it online.
Bought some new hose in halfords, fitted it and the engine was running really badly, the suction caused the crappy halfords hose to completely flatten! Put the old hoses back on
Fed up I put new mirrors on and glued my head lining in place to cheer myself up.
A few other things have cropped up too, I've got a definite exhaust leak but for the life of me I can't find it.
One of my headlamps is squeeling when opening and closing, how do I get at them? Remove the bumper?
My battery is constantly at a low voltage, about 11v. Windows, wipers etc all move very slowly. It's consistently at that voltage rather than going flat so I don't think it's the alternator. Stu recently put a new battery in it, any thoughts?
And neat tricks to stop my doors sagging?
And last but by no means least when I went to start her this morning nothing happened. I could hear power going to the starter if that makes sense but it wouldn't turn. I put her in gear and rolled backwards to turn the engine and then when I flicked the key the starter chugged away and she burst into life. This is the same behaviour as when I broke down in London,
I stalled her queuing on the off ramp of the M1 this morning too and the same thing happened, got a push start and was on my way ( there was a collision and I was rubber necking rather than focussing on my clutch ).
The starter was replaced in London, it's like something is seized and its freaking me out.
Not much progress unfortunately, couldn't get a crows foot anywhere so I've ordered it online.
Bought some new hose in halfords, fitted it and the engine was running really badly, the suction caused the crappy halfords hose to completely flatten! Put the old hoses back on
Fed up I put new mirrors on and glued my head lining in place to cheer myself up.
A few other things have cropped up too, I've got a definite exhaust leak but for the life of me I can't find it.
One of my headlamps is squeeling when opening and closing, how do I get at them? Remove the bumper?
My battery is constantly at a low voltage, about 11v. Windows, wipers etc all move very slowly. It's consistently at that voltage rather than going flat so I don't think it's the alternator. Stu recently put a new battery in it, any thoughts?
And neat tricks to stop my doors sagging?
And last but by no means least when I went to start her this morning nothing happened. I could hear power going to the starter if that makes sense but it wouldn't turn. I put her in gear and rolled backwards to turn the engine and then when I flicked the key the starter chugged away and she burst into life. This is the same behaviour as when I broke down in London,
I stalled her queuing on the off ramp of the M1 this morning too and the same thing happened, got a push start and was on my way ( there was a collision and I was rubber necking rather than focussing on my clutch ).
The starter was replaced in London, it's like something is seized and its freaking me out.
Hi Mate..As mentioned it could be a faulty battery albeit new..The starter may be sticking due to lack of use, Unfortunately there are quite a few issues that can arise from a car that has sat for a while..Dont worry im not trying to scare you but just being realistic.
If you are buying new hose then i personally would use:
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...
There are complete kits available but they are not cheap!..Albeit a worthy cause you are better off just replacing the ones that need it and concerntrate on the other niggly issues...
If you are thinking of getting a full kit then i would use ACT, Tim is a very nice chap who will always sort a problem, He also loves his TVR's..Here is a price for complete kits..ACT kits come with the clips and all the hoses whereas others dont..The JS kit needs rad hoses and clips...
ACT:
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...
JS Performance:
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...
The exhaust could be laking from the downpipe where it joins the manifold, Mine does it frequently as there is no real movement in these systems, Fitting flexi sections do help..
Sagging doors...Well unfortunately its one of the wedge signs of age, There is a nylon bush that runs inside the main door hinge which wears to an oval over the years..Not sure what they were from but its one of the things that will need looking into for all of us sooner or later..(Note to self)..Sometimes its possible to lift the bottom point of the door and tighten the 19mm nut on the top hinge, Although it states that you need a special tool..A bent spanner in this case..It can be done with a ring spanner..But if the bush is worn, Like mine then its only a temporary fix.
Try not to be disheartened by things that have started to appear after you have bought it as this is part of wedge ownership, It happens most of the time..As with ANY car being sat in one place even if its well kept there is a possibility of parts seizing, Sticking or perishing, when i bought mine it had sat in a garage for 11 years and when i drove it it was the worst car i had ever driven..It reminded me of a laurel and hardy car...Screeching round roundabouts at 20 mph..Constantly rattling and shaking..(Me that is)..i thought it was going to fall apart if i stopped!..But through blood sweat..Tears of joy and dispair..Sleepless night's of stress and anxiety...Thousands of pounds spent..Cuts, Scratches and bruises later....
.."ITS STILL BLOODY DOING IT"...
Seriously though it will be worth it..Once you get back behind the wheel the love affair will continue..Just have a bit of patients..Well maybe more than just a bit..Not too much mind...I have had some wonderful moments in mine and although she might have to under go another operation which this time wont be a major one..(Hopefully)..i will be a very happy man when i get her back...Also we are all here to help and to boost your faith in a wedge if needed so dont worry the fraternity is a good one...
...Ziga
If you are buying new hose then i personally would use:
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...
There are complete kits available but they are not cheap!..Albeit a worthy cause you are better off just replacing the ones that need it and concerntrate on the other niggly issues...
If you are thinking of getting a full kit then i would use ACT, Tim is a very nice chap who will always sort a problem, He also loves his TVR's..Here is a price for complete kits..ACT kits come with the clips and all the hoses whereas others dont..The JS kit needs rad hoses and clips...
ACT:
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...
JS Performance:
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...
The exhaust could be laking from the downpipe where it joins the manifold, Mine does it frequently as there is no real movement in these systems, Fitting flexi sections do help..
Sagging doors...Well unfortunately its one of the wedge signs of age, There is a nylon bush that runs inside the main door hinge which wears to an oval over the years..Not sure what they were from but its one of the things that will need looking into for all of us sooner or later..(Note to self)..Sometimes its possible to lift the bottom point of the door and tighten the 19mm nut on the top hinge, Although it states that you need a special tool..A bent spanner in this case..It can be done with a ring spanner..But if the bush is worn, Like mine then its only a temporary fix.
Try not to be disheartened by things that have started to appear after you have bought it as this is part of wedge ownership, It happens most of the time..As with ANY car being sat in one place even if its well kept there is a possibility of parts seizing, Sticking or perishing, when i bought mine it had sat in a garage for 11 years and when i drove it it was the worst car i had ever driven..It reminded me of a laurel and hardy car...Screeching round roundabouts at 20 mph..Constantly rattling and shaking..(Me that is)..i thought it was going to fall apart if i stopped!..But through blood sweat..Tears of joy and dispair..Sleepless night's of stress and anxiety...Thousands of pounds spent..Cuts, Scratches and bruises later....
.."ITS STILL BLOODY DOING IT"...Seriously though it will be worth it..Once you get back behind the wheel the love affair will continue..Just have a bit of patients..Well maybe more than just a bit..Not too much mind...I have had some wonderful moments in mine and although she might have to under go another operation which this time wont be a major one..(Hopefully)..i will be a very happy man when i get her back...Also we are all here to help and to boost your faith in a wedge if needed so dont worry the fraternity is a good one...
...ZigaEdited by mrzigazaga on Wednesday 18th September 15:32
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