Rear Hub Removal
Discussion
Hi Mate...Its a bit of a minefield but basically you will need a torque wrench that is about 2ft and is capable of torquing to 250lbs, You might even need an extra bar over the wrench to get the hub nut un-done..It will need re-torquing to 234lbs..You have to be extra careful not to get any dirt on the splines, You can cable tie a sandwich type bag over it to stop any dirt..It would be advisable to replace the hub nuts with new as undoing them can weaken the nylon thread as it is a nyloc nut..You will also need a large socket for the nut itself..(I always forget the actual size) i think its around 38mm..New hub nuts were obtainable last year from Mr Tank but he has left the forum so im not sure if they are still available...Cheers..Ziga
Its easy. half hour tops. as mark(mr zigazaga) says its a 38mm (or 36mm) nut. cover the splines, change whatever you need. I removed and replaced my hub on a trailing arm set up on a 280i in under half an hour. three foot extension on the torque.
Andy tank has the nuts for sale on ebay. i think he is going by the name tvrcatlady or similar.
Honestly the hub job is easy peasy.
Marcus
Andy tank has the nuts for sale on ebay. i think he is going by the name tvrcatlady or similar.
Honestly the hub job is easy peasy.
Marcus
No there is no space to spin the hubs in situ and push the stud out.
That said once I had located a 38mm socket they came off easily. Surprised how little tension there was on the holding nut. Is there some sort of bearing in there to watch for and not over tighten?
Someone mentioned 230lbs plus of torque and I was expecting the release nut to be a little more of a handfull to remove?
Next problem is replacement studs.
That said once I had located a 38mm socket they came off easily. Surprised how little tension there was on the holding nut. Is there some sort of bearing in there to watch for and not over tighten?
Someone mentioned 230lbs plus of torque and I was expecting the release nut to be a little more of a handfull to remove?
Next problem is replacement studs.
Hmmm. It's saying something that the bearings were fine (not loose) and the torque was down to (pretty much) nil.
Personally when re-torquing old bearings I only use 150lbf because (I think) part of the pre-load is to "bed in" new bearings, I've experienced bearing failure after retorquing to the full monty.
I'll leave it to you to decide...
Also if you are re-installing split pins don't drill new holes in the stub axle, mark the end and re-use the old hole.
Personally when re-torquing old bearings I only use 150lbf because (I think) part of the pre-load is to "bed in" new bearings, I've experienced bearing failure after retorquing to the full monty.
I'll leave it to you to decide...
Also if you are re-installing split pins don't drill new holes in the stub axle, mark the end and re-use the old hole.
adam quantrill said:
Also if you are re-installing split pins don't drill new holes in the stub axle, mark the end and re-use the old hole.
Yikes now you have me worried. No torque on the nut.... THERE WERE NO SPLIT PINTS IN EITHER. Had a look this morning and the shaft clearly has the holes for pins....That said and disaster avoided.... If I replace the nut tightened to a point past the hole and replace the split pin, is that not job done?
ibroker said:
Yikes now you have me worried. No torque on the nut.... THERE WERE NO SPLIT PINTS IN EITHER.
Had a look this morning and the shaft clearly has the holes for pins....That said and disaster avoided.... If I replace the nut tightened to a point past the hole and replace the split pin, is that not job done?
Unless your arm is properly calibrated, no Had a look this morning and the shaft clearly has the holes for pins....That said and disaster avoided.... If I replace the nut tightened to a point past the hole and replace the split pin, is that not job done?
Do you not have access to a torque wrench in that range?
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