Discussion
Gents.
Having not turned over my engine in 4 yrs I find that though the car starts first time, I have no oil pressure.
The gauge does not move and the red warning light tells me I have low pressure. Engine sounds OK.
The sump is full and having taken off the Fram filter I find this is full of oil too.
I dare not run the engine for than 1sec for fear of seizing.
What should I do next?
I'm hoping its just a corroded connection or a dodgy gauge.
Advice greatly appreciated.
Cheers, Stephen Sharp (B4 OOS)
Having not turned over my engine in 4 yrs I find that though the car starts first time, I have no oil pressure.
The gauge does not move and the red warning light tells me I have low pressure. Engine sounds OK.
The sump is full and having taken off the Fram filter I find this is full of oil too.
I dare not run the engine for than 1sec for fear of seizing.
What should I do next?
I'm hoping its just a corroded connection or a dodgy gauge.
Advice greatly appreciated.
Cheers, Stephen Sharp (B4 OOS)
the fact that neither the gauge or the warning light is registering pressure suggests that its not a sensor. As others have suggested, it could just need priming, but it could also be that the pressure relief valve is stuck open, which does happen to the RV8. If its the latter, you will need to take the oil pump cover off. You could try to build up the pressure by isolating the fuel system (relay or fuse for the pump) and the ignition system, and crank the engine over on the starter - say 10 second bursts - to see if anything registers. The light should go out before you see anything on the gauge. If there is evidence of oil reaching the filter, it could point to the relief valve. If you get that far come back and I'll give some pointers on how to deal with it.
Hi Steve ,you have a stuck pressure relief valve and you should not keep starting the car because you will cause damage mate .4 years of engine stood with damp and condensation in the engine will have caused the valve to seize so it needs removing cleaning out and a new valve fitting while inspecting the oil pump gears at the same time .regards Phil (AEROMOTIVE)
It certainly is possible the oil relief valve is stuck but most certainly the pump will need priming, please do not run the engine. The pump priming can be done through a specific tool or vasoline packed in the oil pump, but if the relief valve is open then the oil pressure will be extremely low.
Engine damage will occur if the engine is run without the pump being primed.
Engine damage will occur if the engine is run without the pump being primed.
Method:
Take off the oil filter.
Use an old squeezy bottle (washed and clean) or some types of 1l oil containers (the type with the nozzle and clear tube) squeeze half a litre of oil down the central hole.
The pump will now be primed. Put some oil into the filter too (if it's a bit dry) and replace.
After such a long layup I would also take off all the spark plugs, put a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder. Also put a half litre of oil down the filler cap, this will coat the camshaft. Leave the plugs off and crank the engine for at least 5 revs, to get rid of excess oil and coat the bores.
Then re-insert the plugs and start her up. You should see pressure within about 10 seconds, 20 at the most, or else cut the engine and look at the pressure relief valve. If the pressure builds up then raise the revs to 2000 and hold for a minute to get it circulating to the camshaft - don't let it idle until this is done.
Take off the oil filter.
Use an old squeezy bottle (washed and clean) or some types of 1l oil containers (the type with the nozzle and clear tube) squeeze half a litre of oil down the central hole.
The pump will now be primed. Put some oil into the filter too (if it's a bit dry) and replace.
After such a long layup I would also take off all the spark plugs, put a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder. Also put a half litre of oil down the filler cap, this will coat the camshaft. Leave the plugs off and crank the engine for at least 5 revs, to get rid of excess oil and coat the bores.
Then re-insert the plugs and start her up. You should see pressure within about 10 seconds, 20 at the most, or else cut the engine and look at the pressure relief valve. If the pressure builds up then raise the revs to 2000 and hold for a minute to get it circulating to the camshaft - don't let it idle until this is done.
Sounds like the oil pressure relief valve. There is an upgraded replacement available. Had mine stick years ago whilst on a track day. Luckily enough the engine wasnt damaged, only my wallet.
My Wedge has been stood for up to 18 months in the past and, with a flick of the key to get the oil moving, oil pressure has always been there after 1 second or so after the engine fires.
My Wedge has been stood for up to 18 months in the past and, with a flick of the key to get the oil moving, oil pressure has always been there after 1 second or so after the engine fires.
ssharp13 said:
I fancy fitting an upgraded pressure relief valve regardless. The car is nearly 24yrs old.
Is there a reliable source to buy one from?
What's that? The valves usually fail through fatigue and the spring snaps. The valve is down in the oil pump. FWIW in your case you may as well pull the pump of and refurbish it - probably just clean, reface the cover plate and fit a new spring. Are you anywhere near Sheffield? If so RT should be able to help if you get stuck.Is there a reliable source to buy one from?
If you are near Leeds then Haighy who has posted above run his garage at Birstall
and looks after many of the local TVR members cars inc my 400SE
Also my relief valve went while doing the Harewood Hillclimb Driving School
and has been "modified" not to happen again
HTH
Trickie
West Yorkshire TVRCC Regional Organiser
and looks after many of the local TVR members cars inc my 400SE
Also my relief valve went while doing the Harewood Hillclimb Driving School
and has been "modified" not to happen again
HTH
Trickie
West Yorkshire TVRCC Regional Organiser
Hello,
I had a TR8 with the same problem.
Had to take out the ignition and turned the oilpump with a long socket through this hole.
Fast turning with a electric drill (attached to socket) until oil came out in the head (cover removed).
Problem occurs some times after long stand still, all the oil runs out of the pump and he only sucks air.
Solution with grease in the pump (cannot suck air) sometimes works well but not for me.
Please do not run your engine without oil coming in the head!!!
Good luck.
Hans.
I had a TR8 with the same problem.
Had to take out the ignition and turned the oilpump with a long socket through this hole.
Fast turning with a electric drill (attached to socket) until oil came out in the head (cover removed).
Problem occurs some times after long stand still, all the oil runs out of the pump and he only sucks air.
Solution with grease in the pump (cannot suck air) sometimes works well but not for me.
Please do not run your engine without oil coming in the head!!!
Good luck.
Hans.
Yes you can do this but of course you have to re-set the ignition timing afterwards. I'd recommend not disconnecting any plug leads except the king lead. Take the dizzy cap off wholesale, and photograph the dizzy position before you start, to minimise the possibility of getting the dizzy back on 180 degrees out.
If you suspect the oil relief valve why not take off the nut that secures the spring, pull out the spring, push the valve right in and put in a metal rod in place of the spring, held with the nut.
Then at least you can prime the pump (as per the procedure above) and start/run the car and verify that everything else is still working. Gauges, cooling system, the lot. You don't need the relief valve to kick in below 3000 rpm anyways.
If you then put the spring back in and it goes back to zero you have definitely found the culprit.
If you suspect the oil relief valve why not take off the nut that secures the spring, pull out the spring, push the valve right in and put in a metal rod in place of the spring, held with the nut.
Then at least you can prime the pump (as per the procedure above) and start/run the car and verify that everything else is still working. Gauges, cooling system, the lot. You don't need the relief valve to kick in below 3000 rpm anyways.
If you then put the spring back in and it goes back to zero you have definitely found the culprit.
This may help. Removing the relief valve cover and having a prod around as Adam suggests might tell you something, especially if the valve and spring drop out. However, if it is stuck, you need to remove the pump cover (after removing the sandwich plate) - the securing bolts have a spline type head rather than a hex head, and need IIRC a 5/16 multi point ring spanner. Once you've got the cover off you should see where the steel cylinder (valve) is stuck in the alloy chamber. Sometimes all that is needed is to slightly radius the edges of the open portion of the chamber to remove any alloy causing the problem. If the valve is scored, its worth replacing and the spring. Similarly, if either of the gears show signs of damage (chips, missing teeth) replace them. Not sure if the covers are generally available new now though, but you need to inspect for any damage to the face. When re-assembling, use petroleum jelly (not grease) to completely pack out the pump chamber. This allow the system to prime, and will dissolve into the oil. In terms of modifying the valve, I think opinion is divided on the tadpole approach. Mine is standard.
Edited by Number 7 on Tuesday 17th September 19:31
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff