Failed mot!

[ben420se]

Just put my 420SE through the yearly health check and its failed!! Bugger

Has anyone got any ideas where i can source the following bits from?

Track rod end ball joint dust cover missing!! Could do with two track rod ends to replace. Seen a pair for a Tasmin locally would these fit?

Rear wheel bearing has excessive play!! Not sure if the nut needs tightening or if its a new bearing. Any ideas on what hub assembly it is etc?

Also front bearings if possible.

Headlamp aim is low on offside. Pod stops half way up but when you turn them off it goes all the way up then down..

Guess the main one is the wheel bearing.

Cant grumble really cracking motor.

Really want to bring her back to spec, any thoughts etc. would be appreciated.

Cheers
Ben

[mrzigazaga]

Hi Mate…Sorry to hear that…You could try various stockists for the parts..Not sure about the track rod ends on a 420SE but most were Cortina mk4-5, Hubs Granada mk2 but rear wheel bearings have two seals instead of one..I had a similar problem with one of my pods and i removed it and found that the mechanism arm was out around 45 degree..Check against the side that is operating ok..If the arm goes up too much then the pod will automatically want to close but if its sitting too low it will go up and then down..By all means check or get someone to check the rear hub nut for tightness..They are torqued up to 234ftlbs..Care should be taken when replacing the rear wheel bearing..Do you have a wedge manual?..Hope this helps…Cheers..Ziga

Try these for parts.
www.mlperformanceparts.co.uk
www.obsoletetvr.co.uk
www.willowsportscars.co.uk
www.rtracing.co.uk

[ben420se]

Cheers buddy for the quick update much appreciated.

I have found these few items when having a sniff about not sure if they are right through -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TVR-TASMIN-280-350-400SE...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=&_dcat=...

Unfortunately i don't have a wedge manual mate :-(

Thought the rear bearing might be a pain, is it that bad.... Hope it doesn't need replacing :-(

[adam quantrill]

Hi Ben - good news all easy enough to fix and the parts are easily available. See the parts list at the top of the page ^^^ which will tell you where to get the bits from.

Let's get this beast back on the road!

I would start with ordering a rear bearing kit - make sure you get one with both oil seals correct for the Tasmin - the Ford standard one has only one correct side. I wouldn't bother trying re-torquind as they usually fail soon after - then it's a tow home. Track rod ends are standard and cheap.

The headlamp sounds like it just needs adjusting on the spline. But it will probably need re-aiming after if they have fiddled with it.

[mrzigazaga]

Adam could be right as it happens about the hub nut..You might be better in that case if you are changing the bearing to buy a couple of new ones from obsolete TVR..I wouldn't say that the rear wheel bearing is particularly hard but it must be done correctly..The hub nut can be a bugger to remove as they need a large socket..(38mm) and a good torque wrench with the capacity of around 300lbs..An extension bar of around 3ft is sometimes needed..Care should be taken once the hub has been removed not to get any dirt on the splines so covering by tying a plastic bags around them helps, The old wheel bearing should be pressed out and the new one gently pressed in making sure it is going in straight..It can be tapped in but it might get put in pished!…Once the hub nut has been fitted and torqued up properly then its advisable to mark with permanent marker that some garages use..(Usually yellow) across from the top to the bottom of the nut to monitor any movement..But if done correctly it should be ok.. They are worth checking every now and then…Ziga

PS:There was a bearing extraction tool that someone posted up previously but i can't remember who what where when...

[ben420se]

Cheers guys. Great info.
Are the two items i posted links to above the right ones?
Any ideas on what front end bush kit would be the best to get, poly or rubber etc? Could do with full replacement to stiffen up the handling etc.
Where about is the parts list you mentioned adam as i cant seem to find it :-)

[ben420se]

Also found this link, not sure if they are the right ones??

http://www.classicpartsshack.co.uk/tvr.html

[mrzigazaga]

Hi Ben..The parts you have posted up look right..The bushes from RT look right although I'm not sure if power flex or super flex are better..It might seem a bit rich as regards to what they are asking for the kit but wishbone bushes alone are 140 sobs for the set..I believe the front suspension set up is essentially Cortina mk4-5..I think Adam was talking about the wedge parts list at the top of the forum page, Although it needs updating and inputting of more info…Cheers..Ziga

[adam quantrill]

Wedge+part+numbers

Before blaming the rear wheel bearing have a good look as sometimes the outer UJ gives similar-looking play.

You could torque up the hub nut just to get it through the MOT as long as you do change the bearing soon after and don't go driving it far. But in this case only torque it just enough - I'd say 100-150lbf.

[marcus1875]

I used mlperformance for my rear bearings, i'd recommend them.
The headlamp took me a few attempts to line up, i gave up in the end. the nearside sits about half an inch below the nose bit sits upright at the same level!?!
The rest is fairly straightforward.
Marcus

[ben420se]

Cheers chaps
Adam whats the best way to check the outer UJ?
My offside pod sits about an inch lower than the nearside but does go up as i turn it off, guess the stop is at the wrong point.
Difficult to tell if its the wheel bearing or the UJ i guess. I was surprised how much play their was in the wheel!!

[adam quantrill]

Jack up the rear and also jack up the suspension a bit on the bad side (e.g. under the hub) to take the weight off the driveshaft.

If it's the bearing you'll get play if you hold the wheel in the horizontal line (grab the front/rear of the tyre) and try rocking it around a vertical axis, and also play if you grab top and bottom of tyre and try rocking it around a horizontal axis. (I hope that makes sense...)

If it's the UJ you might get the second type but not the first type, and you'll see the hub carrier moving too with the wheel.

My MOT place is really good and will demonstrate the failure if I ask them.

[PHJayV8]

I have an interest in this thread because I've just checked my MOT history for the wedge, and the rear wheel bearing had been advised for play for the last three years! Yet can't see anything in the big pile of bills to show they'd been replaced, hence can only assume they've just been tightened up?

So for peace of mind, I think I'll change them as one of my winter projects, and I do note Adam's advice on the possibility of it being play in the UJ's - therefore this will be investigated too...

a) Can I confirm the rear wheel bearing kits are standardised across the wedge range? ie would the 280i ones fit my 400SE?

b) Anyone in South Wales have the required 38mm socket and big torque wrench?

c) UJs available?

d) is it a tough job? :/

Also slightly off topic, also advised for slightly corroded front springs, and shock "misted" with oil, hence intend changing these too

Regards

Jay

[Number 7]

PHJayV8 said:

I have an interest in this thread because I've just checked my MOT history for the wedge, and the rear wheel bearing had been advised for play for the last three years! Yet can't see anything in the big pile of bills to show they'd been replaced, hence can only assume they've just been tightened up?

So for peace of mind, I think I'll change them as one of my winter projects, and I do note Adam's advice on the possibility of it being play in the UJ's - therefore this will be investigated too...

a) Can I confirm the rear wheel bearing kits are standardised across the wedge range? ie would the 280i ones fit my 400SE?

b) Anyone in South Wales have the required 38mm socket and big torque wrench?

c) UJs available?


d) is it a tough job? :/

Also slightly off topic, also advised for slightly corroded front springs, and shock "misted" with oil, hence intend changing these too

Regards

Jay

Rear wheel bearings are non-adjustable, although you need to ensure that the hub nut is properly torqued. It's been years since I had a 280i, but I suspect that they are the same across the Wedge range - mk 2 Granada with an extra oil seal. Got the 1 1/2" x 3/4" socket etc. but nowhere near you I'm afraid. UJs for a 400 are HS 179 (now 18200) and I get mine from GKN direct 0121 313 1661. £53 all in inc. delivery for a pair about a year ago, although you could probably get them from a decent motor factor, although I suspect they would just order them from GKN anyway.
Changing a wheel bearing probably needs a press, although its possible to do it without if you are lucky. Either way you really need to take the hub off, although I have seen it done in situ, which is far from ideal. UJs can be done without a press, as long as you have a decent engineers vice and an old socket or similar of the right size to knock them out / press the caps in with. Not difficult, but you do need to be careful not to allow one of the needle rollers to fall over before pressing the caps back in, otherwise it will not fit properly and you will ruin the needle. You really need to take the entire driveshaft out to do both ends properly. I wouldn't bother changing springs for a bit of corrosion, just clean up and repaint if necessary. As for misting, is it definitely damper oil that's leaking, or from somewhere else?