Buying a 350i (hopefully).
Discussion
Went to see a TVR 350I today. Looks in good nick aside from a few niggles.
Handbrake is largely decorative, apparently it is all adjusted at the rear but the but near the handle needs attention. Or something like that.
Passenger side door has dropped slightly.
Passenger side door doesn't open from the outside. There is no resistance on the handle when you try to grab it open.
Needs rear brake pads.
As far as I know, the handbrake and the door not opening from the outside are MOT fails?
Simple problems to fix?
Handbrake is largely decorative, apparently it is all adjusted at the rear but the but near the handle needs attention. Or something like that.
Passenger side door has dropped slightly.
Passenger side door doesn't open from the outside. There is no resistance on the handle when you try to grab it open.
Needs rear brake pads.
As far as I know, the handbrake and the door not opening from the outside are MOT fails?
Simple problems to fix?
Hi Mate…As Adam say's as long as the door can be opened from inside..If it can't then it might need the door card removing to check to see if the rods that are attached to the handle are still attached!..The doors drop for various reasons…If you can hold the bottom of the door at its furthest point..(Towards the rear of the car) and gently lift it to see if the nut on the top of the hinge which is visible in the opening moves, It could just need a tighten..Ideally you need a bent spanner..Cant remember if its a 17mm or a 19mm?…I did manage it without a bent spanner!..Dont tighten it fully as it will be harder to close.
Handbrakes are a bit of a temperamental part, You can adjust them until the cow's come home and they will always eventually end up pointing to the sky with little holding ability…Which reminds me..Mine needs doing again.
Rear brakes can be fiddly as they are inboard, Its good to spray the bleed nipples a few times before attempting to change them..If the nipples break when you need to bleed the brakes then the callipers have to be removed and the bleed screws drilled out and re-tapped…A right pain…
It all sounds a bit daunting but please don't be put off..You will be smiling like a naughty schoolboy when its all done…Ziga
Handbrakes are a bit of a temperamental part, You can adjust them until the cow's come home and they will always eventually end up pointing to the sky with little holding ability…Which reminds me..Mine needs doing again.
Rear brakes can be fiddly as they are inboard, Its good to spray the bleed nipples a few times before attempting to change them..If the nipples break when you need to bleed the brakes then the callipers have to be removed and the bleed screws drilled out and re-tapped…A right pain…
It all sounds a bit daunting but please don't be put off..You will be smiling like a naughty schoolboy when its all done…Ziga
From the people I've talked to, I think I was blessed with a semi-useful handbrake on my chimaera. "They all do that, sir"
Had a good test drive and passenger ride, everything seems to work as it should, newish hood and very recent radiator refurb.
Hmmmm
He wants 5k for it. I was aiming for around 4.5k, does that sound a reasonable price for the car?
Had a good test drive and passenger ride, everything seems to work as it should, newish hood and very recent radiator refurb.
Hmmmm
He wants 5k for it. I was aiming for around 4.5k, does that sound a reasonable price for the car?
Hi Mate..If the car is low mileage or has had new cam with history file and the chassis clean with no rust..Interior and hood are good and all electrics working as it should then 4-5K is a fair price…However if the mileage is high with no engine build history or the interior is tatty and the chassis a bit flaky then i reckon more like 3-4K..You could ask on here as to anyone knowing the history of the car…Ziga
It's this car here, if anyone knows it.
http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/t...
A couple of the tyres are branded "First stop speed"
Certainly, when I stomped on the brakes the tyres locked up quicker than I expected.
Didn't manage to check the chassis properly, i'll take my ramps before parting with cash.
All the bits that matter are solid (engine, gearbox), it's just the details that let the car down. If I'm buying, I'm going to have to negotiate. Hard.
http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/t...
A couple of the tyres are branded "First stop speed"
Certainly, when I stomped on the brakes the tyres locked up quicker than I expected.
Didn't manage to check the chassis properly, i'll take my ramps before parting with cash.
All the bits that matter are solid (engine, gearbox), it's just the details that let the car down. If I'm buying, I'm going to have to negotiate. Hard.
Edited by MethylatedSpirit on Tuesday 5th November 18:38
At todays prices thats top dollar for a 350 but when i bought mine 10 years ago i paid 5 gees and dont regret it. Handbrakes are all dodgy i had to adjust mine for every mot until i took out diff and replaced discs,pads and re cond the calipers and now i have a handbrake that functions as it should and never needed adjusting 2 years down the line.Door handle prob is one of the linkages inside either come off or broken which is an easy fix. adjusting doors is also pretty easy but awkward to get a spanner on the nuts and ideally need a helper to speed process up.
There is nothing out there to compete on value for money/performance in the classic car world so go for it.
There is nothing out there to compete on value for money/performance in the classic car world so go for it.
Mmmm…It looks ok but in fairness i have seen much better examples for less money..Personally i think the price is a bit ambitious..60,000 miles on an RV8 could spell cam change although it might be ok but is inevitable.
The interior looks a bit grubby and the engine bay is a little unloved but again thats my personal opinion…If i was looking to buy then i wouldn't want to pay more than £3800..The BHP is a little ambitious also…Bit like the ruby one..250BHP…Dreamland.
The interior looks a bit grubby and the engine bay is a little unloved but again thats my personal opinion…If i was looking to buy then i wouldn't want to pay more than £3800..The BHP is a little ambitious also…Bit like the ruby one..250BHP…Dreamland.
In my opinion from what I can see in the advert the car looks pretty neat for a twenty six year old Wedge. Problems you have mentioned seem trivial and can easily be sorted. On the downside the price is on the higher end of the scale for an early Mk2 350i but you would have to travel a fair distance to the south, if you want to get anything cheaper though not necessarily better. Dash and gear knob not original but if you like the look then it's fine.
In conclusion, if you like the drive and are please with the looks, if you like the owner and what he is saying, if you can find no major mechanical faults, if the chassis is sound after a thorough check, if the engine is dry with no excessive oil or water leaks, if the car doesn't overheat in traffic and you've fallen in love with it, make him an offer and go for it.
Tony. TCB.
In conclusion, if you like the drive and are please with the looks, if you like the owner and what he is saying, if you can find no major mechanical faults, if the chassis is sound after a thorough check, if the engine is dry with no excessive oil or water leaks, if the car doesn't overheat in traffic and you've fallen in love with it, make him an offer and go for it.
Tony. TCB.
Okay, after speaking to a few people. I've pretty much decided what I'm doing now.
It has potential to be a really good car. But unless he can give me a really, really, really good offer on it. I'm out.
Remember, never take cash to the first viewing of a car
It has potential to be a really good car. But unless he can give me a really, really, really good offer on it. I'm out.
Remember, never take cash to the first viewing of a car
Edited by MethylatedSpirit on Tuesday 5th November 12:24
Have to agree that £5k is really ambitious for that model at this time of year and in our location. I am not a million miles away from you and bought my 350i for £3k a couple of months ago. Needed the bonnet painted, hand brake was pretty poor but I got away with adjusting it (for now) but had a newish roof, 390 body kit and a full MOT. Also came with a huge history folder and had the outriggers done a few years ago.
Jonny Weggie's old 350i was for sale on here a few months ago for £4.5k and it was a stunning car.
Jonny Weggie's old 350i was for sale on here a few months ago for £4.5k and it was a stunning car.
May be ambitious but I hope it brings it. About time the true value of our cars is realised.
I didn't buy mine as an investment, I bought it to use (although that has been a struggle this year due to moving house and renovating
) but it does give you a warmer feeling if you know you are not losing your shirt!
I didn't buy mine as an investment, I bought it to use (although that has been a struggle this year due to moving house and renovating
) but it does give you a warmer feeling if you know you are not losing your shirt!mrzigazaga said:
60,000 miles on an RV8 could spell cam change although it might be ok but is inevitable.
Sorry for the o/t, but would a 1988 wedge with a 3.9 on 58k miles which is original (apart from head gaskets) need anything doing to it soonish?You mention a cam. How many miles does these go for and how much to replace it? Thanks.
JumboBeef said:
Sorry for the o/t, but would a 1988 wedge with a 3.9 on 58k miles which is original (apart from head gaskets) need anything doing to it soonish?
You mention a cam. How many miles does these go for and how much to replace it? Thanks.
Hi Mate..I did read that premature cam wear was attributed to the Mobil1 that was being used, Its a thin oil..If you have valvoline then it should last longer..Some cars have gone up to 80,000 miles + with no problems..I think high Co and a change in HC..Lack of power and high fuel consumption are signs of cam lobe wear..Dont quote me on it though as I'm still learning…I believe most people use V8 developments for engine work..Sorry I'm not sure of how much it cost's..Im sure someone with more experience will be along to confirm or alleviate any worries..Cheers…ZigaYou mention a cam. How many miles does these go for and how much to replace it? Thanks.
jon haines said:
At todays prices thats top dollar for a 350 but when i bought mine 10 years ago i paid 5 gees and dont regret it. Handbrakes are all dodgy i had to adjust mine for every mot until i took out diff and replaced discs,pads and re cond the calipers and now i have a handbrake that functions as it should and never needed adjusting 2 years down the line.Door handle prob is one of the linkages inside either come off or broken which is an easy fix. adjusting doors is also pretty easy but awkward to get a spanner on the nuts and ideally need a helper to speed process up.
There is nothing out there to compete on value for money/performance in the classic car world so go for it.
I've been told that the biggest problem with Wedge handbrakes is lack of use, as it is with many cars that don't see regular use.There is nothing out there to compete on value for money/performance in the classic car world so go for it.
Hi
Those people in the know would use J E Developments - probably the best there is (from experience)
The cams are good for alot more miles that 60k - if the engine has been looked after. Not going to comment on the oil that should be used but I dont think there was a Mobil 1 20 years ago!
Have a look at the car and check the chassis etc - negotiate the price and see what they will take.
Just my 2 pen'orth
Richard
Those people in the know would use J E Developments - probably the best there is (from experience)
The cams are good for alot more miles that 60k - if the engine has been looked after. Not going to comment on the oil that should be used but I dont think there was a Mobil 1 20 years ago!
Have a look at the car and check the chassis etc - negotiate the price and see what they will take.
Just my 2 pen'orth
Richard
V8 Fettler said:
I've been told that the biggest problem with Wedge handbrakes is lack of use, as it is with many cars that don't see regular use.
probably right, plus they get an awful lot of road crap thrown at them in that inboard location, and the linkages are impossible to lubricate without covering the discs with it as well. And they should really be left off and car in gear when parked (preferably in a garage).Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff