Tracking on rear end (trailing arm)
Discussion
On my '82 2.8, There are spacing washers between the front bushes and the trailing arms, and NO diff shims.
must be 10mm or more on each side.
Is this unusual ?
I am wondering if anyone else has this.
Being old now the rear wheels also have quite a lot of camber, probably as rear springs are compressed a bit. (which makes sense to me for this type of suspension setup)
No it's never been bashed at the rear, no rewelding, all plastic coat looks to be in place, arms a bit rusty but straight, etc,etc, checked all that. Have changed one bush, the other seems to be a replacement too.
Are replacement bushes different to originals enough for these extra spacers ?
Comments please.
must be 10mm or more on each side.
Is this unusual ?
I am wondering if anyone else has this.
Being old now the rear wheels also have quite a lot of camber, probably as rear springs are compressed a bit. (which makes sense to me for this type of suspension setup)
No it's never been bashed at the rear, no rewelding, all plastic coat looks to be in place, arms a bit rusty but straight, etc,etc, checked all that. Have changed one bush, the other seems to be a replacement too.
Are replacement bushes different to originals enough for these extra spacers ?
Comments please.
Thanks Adam, I added a couple when changing the bush, to get the tracking about right (by using a couple of long steel bars and a tape measure).
It was just that 10mm on each side seems like a LOT to be added....
So thinking about it, adding diff shims would REDUCE camber ? (longer driveshaft, same susp arms....)
Or am I going slightly mad ?
It was just that 10mm on each side seems like a LOT to be added....
So thinking about it, adding diff shims would REDUCE camber ? (longer driveshaft, same susp arms....)
Or am I going slightly mad ?
Hi Mate…Is it negative camber?..I would check for play in the UJ's and trailing arm bushes…I remember when my rear wheels had a real bad negative camber and flexing to a positive camber on acceleration…Very strange but after having the geo done and a re-pack of the shims it was a lot better..Its also worth remembering that if the car is on an arm lift when the trailing arm pin bolts are tightened then the weight of the car when lowered will stress the bushes a lot sooner than normal…I have about the same amount of washers also...Ziga
Thanks Zig, not had a particular problem with the bushes, just noticed one was starting to fall apart (it looked like the original one, so would be 30+ years old after all). Had replaced other side a while ago.
I do have a lot of negative camber, but just wanted to check with fellow wedgers for the washers/tracking, as it seemed like a lot of washers !
I think I'll buy some diff shims next.....
I do have a lot of negative camber, but just wanted to check with fellow wedgers for the washers/tracking, as it seemed like a lot of washers !
I think I'll buy some diff shims next.....
Edited by RCK974X on Monday 18th November 20:36
the shims i got from a jaguar part supplier !
RCK974X said:
Thanks Zig, not had a particular problem with the bushes, just noticed one was starting to fall apart (it looked like the original one, so would be 30+ years old after all). Had replaced other side a while ago.
I do have a lot of negative camber, but just wanted to check with fallow wedgers for the washers/tracking, as it seemed like a lot of washers !
I think I'll buy some diff shims next.....
I do have a lot of negative camber, but just wanted to check with fallow wedgers for the washers/tracking, as it seemed like a lot of washers !
I think I'll buy some diff shims next.....
The original trailing arm pin design is flawed, I'm convinced it flexes so the toe-in alters, and sometimes the pin breaks. Also the bush assembly is too flexible, so again the toe-in alters. My trailing arm 350i has gone from a wobbling/weaving thing with rear wheel steer and vague turn-in into a car that turns in quicker than I can/dare (which is not that quick if truth be told!). Solid pin with no shoulder and a substantial bush is an engineered solution, although an A frame is probably a better solution.
After having had bushes fail in one year after fitting i opted for the superflex type which agreed are rather expensive..The trailing arm was removed and the hole for the pin was cleaned free of surface rust and then the pin was greased to ease rotational movement upon fitting..New washers were also used..The difference was noticeable and a much firmer feel to the back end was achieved..I wonder how the mod with the drop link panned out?…Ziga
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Yeah, I agree. I changed the bush on the other side originally because I could see both the pin was bent and the bush was well knackered - my comments in that thread.
I guess the V8 chews up the bushes and pins even faster.....
Thanks everyone for the info !
(Yeah, did know that shims are Jag ones - but thanks again)
I guess the V8 chews up the bushes and pins even faster.....
Thanks everyone for the info !
(Yeah, did know that shims are Jag ones - but thanks again)
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