350i - 2 speed fan switch
Discussion
Keith
I've got a full set of spare switches for a 350i. Funnily enough I just took them off the panel this morning as one of the guys wanted the back plate for a centre console. I know at least two of the switches are toast but not sure which. I'll have a look in the morning and let you know.
Karl.
I've got a full set of spare switches for a 350i. Funnily enough I just took them off the panel this morning as one of the guys wanted the back plate for a centre console. I know at least two of the switches are toast but not sure which. I'll have a look in the morning and let you know.
Karl.
Hi Mate...If all fails you can use a Head light switch which seems to be the only ones still available and put the fan symbol in there..Sometimes you can carefully take them apart to clean them and then they work again...Just be careful when pushing the plastic lugs in to separate the switch...If you look underneath the switch you will see the copper contacts and sometimes its worth gently cleaning them with a small wrap of 1200 grit or a ladies nail emery board...Ziga
Yatesy350i said:
Can't post links. Poxy iPad.
Hi Mate...I used to have the same problem on my iMac but you can either copy and paste the link..cmd+C = Copy and cmd+V = Paste..Or drag the link onto the desktop and then drag into the post..review it first though as sometimes there is too much info in the link...ZigaAll the switches can be dismantled and parts exchanged between them (as long as you're not a complete spanner-baboon) so it's not necessary to use the exact switch if you can find a spare from the range to rob for spares.
For the same reason, faulty ones should not be binned unless they're smashed to bits or melted - sooner or later you'll need the bits!
The fan switch is the one that fails most commonly; this is because it directly switches the fan motor, an inductive load of several amps that causes the switch contacts to arc and/or get hot, melting the plastic parts.
A way around this is to use a 20A or 30A relay, configured so that the 'slow' switch position feeds the motor directly but the 'fast' position powers the relay instead, which in turn feeds the fan motor, taking the high current away from the switch.
For the same reason, faulty ones should not be binned unless they're smashed to bits or melted - sooner or later you'll need the bits!
The fan switch is the one that fails most commonly; this is because it directly switches the fan motor, an inductive load of several amps that causes the switch contacts to arc and/or get hot, melting the plastic parts.
A way around this is to use a 20A or 30A relay, configured so that the 'slow' switch position feeds the motor directly but the 'fast' position powers the relay instead, which in turn feeds the fan motor, taking the high current away from the switch.
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