Buying a wedge
Discussion
Hello,
I'm completely new to TVR, mostly been a Triumph driver, though currently have a P4 too. I used to have a Stag and miss the sound of a V8! I've got my eye on a 350i which on paper looks cared for and hopefully won't end up biting me back just so my partner can give me the, I told you so look!
Anyway, I've been looking on websites for what to look out for and so far it seems that apart from suspension I need to check the cams for wear etc. What I don't seem to be able to find is a service schedule so I can compare what has been done against, particularly the cam-belt change period.
If anyone has the critical list of what should have been changed at say 60k that would be appreciated.
Also is there anywhere where crazing on the paintwork is a bad sign (weakness in structure), other than what might be expected on a 27 year old car.
Many thanks in advance
David
I'm completely new to TVR, mostly been a Triumph driver, though currently have a P4 too. I used to have a Stag and miss the sound of a V8! I've got my eye on a 350i which on paper looks cared for and hopefully won't end up biting me back just so my partner can give me the, I told you so look!
Anyway, I've been looking on websites for what to look out for and so far it seems that apart from suspension I need to check the cams for wear etc. What I don't seem to be able to find is a service schedule so I can compare what has been done against, particularly the cam-belt change period.
If anyone has the critical list of what should have been changed at say 60k that would be appreciated.
Also is there anywhere where crazing on the paintwork is a bad sign (weakness in structure), other than what might be expected on a 27 year old car.
Many thanks in advance
David
Hello David ....and welcome hopefully soon!!!! The outriggers are something that should be checked out as that is normally a trouble area ....and some small hair line cracks like around the headlight pods and under the windshield are common ...now there is a great bunch of guys over there with a lot of knowledge and maybe close to where you live somebody might be able to take a look at it for ya?...Bob
Thanks for the quick replies.
Interesting to hear about the hairline cracks, if there were any below the windscreen or headlight units should I walk away?
The unit is a Rover 3.5 so I probably mean timing chain rather than cam-belt. As I have said I haven't seen service schedule to know if it should be changed either by period or mileage. My old Stags' was due at 36K though the service guys who really knew their stuff said mine was still okay.
Thanks again.
David
Interesting to hear about the hairline cracks, if there were any below the windscreen or headlight units should I walk away?
The unit is a Rover 3.5 so I probably mean timing chain rather than cam-belt. As I have said I haven't seen service schedule to know if it should be changed either by period or mileage. My old Stags' was due at 36K though the service guys who really knew their stuff said mine was still okay.
Thanks again.
David
The timing chain has no tensioner and is just lubed by random splashing of oil about the place, but they usually last quite well as long as you actually change the oil... probably not an issue in a Wedge. Some of them change hands quite frequently and the first thing everyone feels the need to do is ignore whatever the seller told them and throw money at new oil, plugs etc. - depite the car probably not having done more than 1000 miles since the last set 
My engine has a duplex chain and sprockets but I don't think it was original; the car had done 90-odd thousand when I bought it in 2000 and the intervening years haven't added enough miles to make me worry about chain wear...
My engine has a duplex chain and sprockets but I don't think it was original; the car had done 90-odd thousand when I bought it in 2000 and the intervening years haven't added enough miles to make me worry about chain wear...
Not trying to be nasty, but the Rover V8 has a FAR better reputation than the poor old Triumph V8, so don't worry too much !!
As all the wedges are getting on, fibreglass does tend to crack from corners etc, and at high stress points, but if they are hairline it's not [normally] anything serious.
Check the headlamp pods work properly, as it's a fairly constant issue here on the forum.
Other than that I reckon just check all the 'normal' things like any other prospective classic car purchase...
Oh, and of course it's a separate spaceframe chassis, which should be checked over for rust (outriggers as above) and damage, dodgy repairs etc.
As all the wedges are getting on, fibreglass does tend to crack from corners etc, and at high stress points, but if they are hairline it's not [normally] anything serious.
Check the headlamp pods work properly, as it's a fairly constant issue here on the forum.
Other than that I reckon just check all the 'normal' things like any other prospective classic car purchase...
Oh, and of course it's a separate spaceframe chassis, which should be checked over for rust (outriggers as above) and damage, dodgy repairs etc.
Edited by RCK974X on Monday 24th February 04:45
I'll repeat the advice that I was given when looking at Wedges.
Do not start the engine first.
Get underneath and check the chassis, then get underneath and check the chassis again.
When you've finished checking the chassis, get underneath and check the chassis again.
Did I mention, get underneath and check the chassis, particularly the outriggers.
Only then can you start the engine, cos once you hear that glorious V8 burble your wallet will be out quicker than Quicky McQuick riding a quick thing; quickly...
Do not start the engine first.
Get underneath and check the chassis, then get underneath and check the chassis again.
When you've finished checking the chassis, get underneath and check the chassis again.
Did I mention, get underneath and check the chassis, particularly the outriggers.
Only then can you start the engine, cos once you hear that glorious V8 burble your wallet will be out quicker than Quicky McQuick riding a quick thing; quickly...
Hi and welcome...All good advice above..As said check the Chassis and also check the welds to the centre section, Check wheel bearing and general condition of hoses...Check oil level and water.
If you can start it from cold look for any smoke not condensation...And listen for any rattles..It should idle from around 1200-1500 and settle to a smooth 900-950rpm..You can bring the idle up for a minute to about 1800rpm as you need to make sure the oil gets round the engine..Once it has reach normal temperature wait for the fan to kick in and see if it is sufficient at cooling..
Cracks in the paint on these cars are common place in certain spots as the body flex's so don't worry too much..Crazing is a different matter.
Try initially to go for one that has been used regularly and ask when things like UJ's were last fitted or serviced..Finally drive it and see what you think..Listen out for any humming...(Wheel bearings) or clunking or movement when driving err whats it called...Oh yeah sensibly...This could be rear bearings or UJ's...But all said and done these cars are relatively simple and are so much fun...Good luck...Ziga
If you can start it from cold look for any smoke not condensation...And listen for any rattles..It should idle from around 1200-1500 and settle to a smooth 900-950rpm..You can bring the idle up for a minute to about 1800rpm as you need to make sure the oil gets round the engine..Once it has reach normal temperature wait for the fan to kick in and see if it is sufficient at cooling..
Cracks in the paint on these cars are common place in certain spots as the body flex's so don't worry too much..Crazing is a different matter.
Try initially to go for one that has been used regularly and ask when things like UJ's were last fitted or serviced..Finally drive it and see what you think..Listen out for any humming...(Wheel bearings) or clunking or movement when driving err whats it called...Oh yeah sensibly...This could be rear bearings or UJ's...But all said and done these cars are relatively simple and are so much fun...Good luck...Ziga
Barbican said:
What I don't seem to be able to find is a service schedule
There's one floating around on the internet somewhere, basically common sense.Barbican said:
particularly the cam-belt change period.
As per Ian but I'll have a stab at 250,000+miles.Barbican said:
critical list of what should have been changed at say 60k that would be appreciated.
Off the top of my head: the basic service interval is 6,000 or one year. Oil changes 3,000 for town driving plus after a track day. At 60K if they haven't been done recently: fluids and filters, UJs, front pads, front bushes plus on trailing arm rear bushes, dampers, rad, exhaust manifold.Barbican said:
where crazing on the paintwork is a bad sign (weakness in structure), other than what might be expected on a 27 year old car.
Above any of the wheel arches usually means accident damage. The headlights is an odd one: there are frequently hairline cracks but they don't seem to develop into a problem.Go with a mate when viewing, someone who won't be emotionally charged and can be objective because..like has already been said, once that V8 rumbles into life..the rose tinted goggles become mighty..rosy!!
I did everything wrong when I bought my 1st 350i Wedge. I bought the 1st one I saw, and didn't really do my homework as regards what goes wrong. Needless to say, I ended up spending a fortune on it..only to sell it and buy a 400SE. Which also then needed money spending instantly as the rear ujs were completely seized!
Don't let any of this put you off though, do your checks, get a good one..and you will grin!
To be honest, more and more Wedges tend to be sold in a good condition and well maintained as they are mainly in the hands of Wedge-head enthusiasts..like us. :-)
I did everything wrong when I bought my 1st 350i Wedge. I bought the 1st one I saw, and didn't really do my homework as regards what goes wrong. Needless to say, I ended up spending a fortune on it..only to sell it and buy a 400SE. Which also then needed money spending instantly as the rear ujs were completely seized!
Don't let any of this put you off though, do your checks, get a good one..and you will grin!
To be honest, more and more Wedges tend to be sold in a good condition and well maintained as they are mainly in the hands of Wedge-head enthusiasts..like us. :-)
Thanks for all the replies, have to say the speed they have come through has been impressive. Things really do go faster than a P4!
I will check the Chassis as this does seem the most fundimental thing. The owner says it is okay but I've seen cars before where the owner seems quite unconcerned about issues they should.
He did say that the UJs on the diff were not 100% and that he has been told they would need replacing in a few years, or one year if raced. There could be artistic license on this but have asked for a few quotes on the cost of replacement.
Sounds like crazing is more of an issue than cracks?
Anyway I've got the owner to MOT it (though I know this is no guarantee) and may get the RAC to give it the once over too just so the heart doesn't rule the head.
The car is this one...
www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C468102
Thanks again all.
David
I will check the Chassis as this does seem the most fundimental thing. The owner says it is okay but I've seen cars before where the owner seems quite unconcerned about issues they should.
He did say that the UJs on the diff were not 100% and that he has been told they would need replacing in a few years, or one year if raced. There could be artistic license on this but have asked for a few quotes on the cost of replacement.
Sounds like crazing is more of an issue than cracks?
Anyway I've got the owner to MOT it (though I know this is no guarantee) and may get the RAC to give it the once over too just so the heart doesn't rule the head.
The car is this one...
www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C468102
Thanks again all.
David
Barbican said:
That's worth £4500 all day long. Even if the outriggers/sill tubes needed doing (which they probably don't), a swift 500 off the asking would compensate for that.The driveshaft UJs won't last years once they start to fail (the usual giveaway is that they become noisy); they're either OK or they're going to break in short order unless you drive like Billy Elliott. Changing them is easy enough and cheaper than say the front wheel bearings on almost any modern front-drive car.
60K miles isn't an issue on a car that age, it's deterioration of the rubber components due to natural ageing and exposure to oil leaks etc... all suspension bushes, fuel lines, coolant hoses, alternator belt and so on.
Edited by Wedg1e on Tuesday 25th February 00:53
With the price of wedges like they are at the moment I wouldn't worry about it.
Even if you buy something that you have to spend a couple of grand on over 2 or 3 more years (and that is really pushing it), it's still an absolute bargain.
If you are concerned about finances make sure the engine is running OK, reasonable oil pressure (25psi), the cooling system works, and the gearbox is working and not too noisy. Everything else is details and easily fixed.
Oh, and get a set of spanners.
Even if you buy something that you have to spend a couple of grand on over 2 or 3 more years (and that is really pushing it), it's still an absolute bargain.
If you are concerned about finances make sure the engine is running OK, reasonable oil pressure (25psi), the cooling system works, and the gearbox is working and not too noisy. Everything else is details and easily fixed.
Oh, and get a set of spanners.
Hi Mate..Looks a decent car...Nice colour too...Just one thing...In the pic of the engine it looks like a dark patch on one of the fuel feed hoses and the other one looks like it has a blueish tinge to it?...It might just be the camera but please check the fuel lines as mentioned..In fact when you first start it check around the fuel rail under the plenum where the injectors are fixed and more so the joining hose that joins the fuel rail together.
Its a bit of a pain but if you do buy it then i would change the fuel hoses for peace of mind, The plenum will need removing to get to the injector hose..Fuel additives in modern fuel's can and will eat through old type hose..
I believe its 5/16ths...The injector lengths can be bought from Rimmer bros and they push fit on to the injector in most cases..Mine have clips to injector and rail and if this is the case then always buy new clips.
Also making sure the breathers are clean helps...The flame trap can be removed and cleaned with petrol or degreaser and boiling water, The N/S mushroom will need checking also...The plastic top pops off and the metal part is pushed in..A small amount of WD40 while the engine is warm around it will help to remove it, Check that the pinhole in it is clear...The sponge will probably need changing as well.
It may sound a bit off putting but these cars are 20+ years old so will need some parts updating but its all worth it at the end of the day as the reward is a smile that will stay on your face even while your sleeping...Be warned though..These cars get under you skin...
Its a bit of a pain but if you do buy it then i would change the fuel hoses for peace of mind, The plenum will need removing to get to the injector hose..Fuel additives in modern fuel's can and will eat through old type hose..
I believe its 5/16ths...The injector lengths can be bought from Rimmer bros and they push fit on to the injector in most cases..Mine have clips to injector and rail and if this is the case then always buy new clips.
Also making sure the breathers are clean helps...The flame trap can be removed and cleaned with petrol or degreaser and boiling water, The N/S mushroom will need checking also...The plastic top pops off and the metal part is pushed in..A small amount of WD40 while the engine is warm around it will help to remove it, Check that the pinhole in it is clear...The sponge will probably need changing as well.
It may sound a bit off putting but these cars are 20+ years old so will need some parts updating but its all worth it at the end of the day as the reward is a smile that will stay on your face even while your sleeping...Be warned though..These cars get under you skin...
Thanks again for the terrific number of responses and details I feel a lot more informed prior to buying.
Trouble is I was due to view the car yesterday, booked my flights, day of work and at the 11th hour got a phone call to say the parts that were ordered for its MOT were the wrong ones. So no MOT, no viewing. It's not the guys fault I had booked the flights, the problem is convincing my partner that this is NOT an OMEN having had to do the same that 4 cars is neither!
Trouble is I was due to view the car yesterday, booked my flights, day of work and at the 11th hour got a phone call to say the parts that were ordered for its MOT were the wrong ones. So no MOT, no viewing. It's not the guys fault I had booked the flights, the problem is convincing my partner that this is NOT an OMEN having had to do the same that 4 cars is neither!
If the green car is as good as it looks then £5k seems pretty reasonable to me. Certainly cheaper than buying one that's a bit rough and trying to get it to the same standard. Having said that, we've all gone to see cars that look and sound great in the ads but are a different story when you get there so go along and see it. As someone else has already said, try and avoid starting it until you've had a good look round - once you've heard it it might be more difficult to make objective decisions
Edited by simonwedge on Friday 28th February 21:17
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