No brakes

[Urban67]

The sun was shining so I got out the 400, put in £40 worth of petrol and went for a lovely drive
Yes I was caning it a little bit, after about half an hour I put my foot on the brake pedal and there was nothing there.

I know the rear brakes were binding a little bit and I think I may have cooked them

Oh well, another job to add to the list

At least I have all the recon calipers, pad and new discs ready to go and up until that point I was having a great time.

[Wedg1e]

Exactly the same as happened to me.
Ended up as a full refurb of the drivetrain from the gearbox back, exhaust, chassis, brakes, fuel system...

[V8 Fettler]

Usually down to lack of use: pads and/or pistons seize in calipers, drag, create heat (and fire!), boils the fluid = no brakes. Also sliding calipers that don't slide.

Got a Wedge? Use the Wedge!.

[ElvisWedgely]

Urban67 said:

I put my foot on the brake pedal and there was nothing there.

Are you sure that the reservoir is full and that its ventilated? Front and rear brakes don't usually fail simultaneously as its dual circuit. If air fails to reach the reservoir the pedal would travel because the master cylinder valve would fail to pump.

Tony. TCB.

[Urban67]

ElvisWedgely said:

Are you sure that the reservoir is full and that its ventilated? Front and rear brakes don't usually fail simultaneously as its dual circuit. If air fails to reach the reservoir the pedal would travel because the master cylinder valve would fail to pump.

Tony. TCB.

Hi Tony

The reservoir definitely full, when I say nothing there, when I pushed practically to the floor I then had some braking but maybe 50% if that. There was a smell of hot brake fluid, couldn't see any leaks on the reservoir or master cylinder and the smell seemed to come from the back.

I'm pretty sure the back brakes were an advisory on the last MOT which was obtained by the previous owner, I'll have to dig it out.

Thanks

Chris

[Urban67]

Wedg1e said:

Exactly the same as happened to me.
Ended up as a full refurb of the drivetrain from the gearbox back, exhaust, chassis, brakes, fuel system...

Not the best job to have to do but I guess once it's done, it's done

I'm assuming you dropped the diff out and replaced all the bushes etc.

Chris

[Wedg1e]

Urban67 said:

Not the best job to have to do but I guess once it's done, it's done

I'm assuming you dropped the diff out and replaced all the bushes etc.

Chris

Take a look at this page from my webbie, that'll give you an idea of what I've done so far...

http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p13.ht...

[Wedg1e]

ElvisWedgely said:

Are you sure that the reservoir is full and that its ventilated? Front and rear brakes don't usually fail simultaneously as its dual circuit. If air fails to reach the reservoir the pedal would travel because the master cylinder valve would fail to pump.

Tony. TCB.

The OP reports exactly the same failure mechanism I did: I was dropping down a long hill on the Yorkshire Moors, pressed the pedal and nothing happened... if you kept your foot hard to the floor there'd eventually be a slight slowing.
Once the car had stood (with smoke billowing from the rear arches) for 15 minutes the brakes came back... until the next time. Couldn't touch the rear discs and the diff seals started leaking oil soon afterwards.
Definitely the rear calipers dragging.

[Urban67]

Wedg1e said:

Take a look at this page from my webbie, that'll give you an idea of what I've done so far...

http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p13.ht...

You described exactly what happened to me but with less smoke.

Your website is great and will help me no end as I'm sure it has for many wedge owners

Thanks

Chris

[dixiebabes]

Wedg1e said:

Exactly the same as happened to me.
Ended up as a full refurb of the drivetrain from the gearbox back, exhaust, chassis, brakes, fuel system...

Same here happened to me on the way to the wedge fest 2008, nightmare of a job.

Dix

[BoltonTVR]

Urban67 said:

Wedg1e said:

Take a look at this page from my webbie, that'll give you an idea of what I've done so far...

http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p13.ht...

You described exactly what happened to me but with less smoke.

Your website is great and will help me no end as I'm sure it has for many wedge owners

Thanks

Chris

Ditto. Mine failed on the M6 which was a bit hairy to say the least. I took the calipers off with a view to sending them off to be refurbished, but then I read Ian's website and thought it can't be that difficult. I stripped them down, split dust covers and rusty pistons showing why they were sticking, and bought lots of shiny new parts. That was November and I've done bugger all since, must try harder.
What's the consensus on the locking wire for the caliper bolts? Does everybody replace it? It looks like a complete arse to put back on and I've never put it on any other brake calipers (plus only one side had it on). Do the brakes get extra vibration from the diff and so could lead to coming loose?

[wild rover]

Bolts should be wired for an mot.

[wild rover]

Bolts should be wired for an mot.

[Wedg1e]

wild rover said:

Bolts should be wired for an mot.

True, provided you have an MOT tester who knows he's supposed to look for it... but why take the risk?
You can buy lockwire as used by racers but MIG welding wire would work just as well and cost, well, nothing if you have a MIG welder handy

I'll be lock-wiring mine - but before the diff and brakes go back in the car, so it'll be easy to get at.