This I guess is as bad as it gets.....officially not happy!!
Discussion
I dont know how serious that is Glen. But can see the bit that's not where it's supposed to be. You've had some unexpected suprises with that so far mate. Hope things start to improve.
My engine lifter is here mate of you decide to go down that route for getting the body off. I'm sure it will squeeze in the back of that BM
Karl.
My engine lifter is here mate of you decide to go down that route for getting the body off. I'm sure it will squeeze in the back of that BM
Karl.
I'd be checking for impact damage on the piston crown, bent conrod, bent valve stem, damage to valve guide, crank big-end bearing damage... as well as the rocker arm and rocker shaft.
The RV8 is a tough old lump and will tolerate all manner of wear and tear but you could (and I stress could) have a list of issues that may compromise the running. Mine still pulled like a train even with four broken piston rings, scored cylinder walls and some of the crank shells showing the copper backings - presumably the previous owner(s) was a bit rough with it.
For the cost of a head gasket and some exhaust seals I'd have that head off and checked over... but you could risk it as Adam says and just replace the pushrod (and probably rocker arm, the lifter will probably survive as long as the case hardening hasn't chipped) in order to get it running for a good assessment.
ETA there's still a bit of the pushrod missing, where is it? You want it to be either sat in a crevice in the head or lying in the sump. It won't do any harm in the sump as it's too big to go through the strainer but you don't want it where it could rattle in between moving parts.
The RV8 is a tough old lump and will tolerate all manner of wear and tear but you could (and I stress could) have a list of issues that may compromise the running. Mine still pulled like a train even with four broken piston rings, scored cylinder walls and some of the crank shells showing the copper backings - presumably the previous owner(s) was a bit rough with it.
For the cost of a head gasket and some exhaust seals I'd have that head off and checked over... but you could risk it as Adam says and just replace the pushrod (and probably rocker arm, the lifter will probably survive as long as the case hardening hasn't chipped) in order to get it running for a good assessment.
ETA there's still a bit of the pushrod missing, where is it? You want it to be either sat in a crevice in the head or lying in the sump. It won't do any harm in the sump as it's too big to go through the strainer but you don't want it where it could rattle in between moving parts.
Edited by Wedg1e on Wednesday 2nd April 22:16
As above - I'd want to ensure there aren't any large metal particles floating around the engine.
At the very least, you really need to have the sump off and the cylinder heads.
If it had happened to my engine, I'd be REALLY tempted to pull the engine and partially strip it.
On a Rover with hydraulic tappets, they're pretty hard to seriously over rev, as the lifters simply pump up and the engine starts to misfire.
Please do keep us posted on what you choose to do, and what you find out.
I shall be very interested to find out what has caused this!
At the very least, you really need to have the sump off and the cylinder heads.
If it had happened to my engine, I'd be REALLY tempted to pull the engine and partially strip it.
On a Rover with hydraulic tappets, they're pretty hard to seriously over rev, as the lifters simply pump up and the engine starts to misfire.
Please do keep us posted on what you choose to do, and what you find out.
I shall be very interested to find out what has caused this!
Yeah the missing bit of pushrod should be found if possible, but there are only two places it could be.
If no joy with the top then drain the oil, catch it and keep pouring it down the valley until the piece comes out - while you have it open.
Also check the oil for metal bits - stick a magnet in it and leave it for 24 hours.
Borrow a boroscope and check the valve and piston crown with the head on (or else you'll have to pull that head.) If no obvious dings install new pushrod and do a compression test - this will reveal whether the valve got bent/is moving OK.
If the piston looks good and the compression test is OK I would leave it there, otherwise do the extra bits Ian said above. The piston will show a telltale ding if it meets the valve.
If no joy with the top then drain the oil, catch it and keep pouring it down the valley until the piece comes out - while you have it open.
Also check the oil for metal bits - stick a magnet in it and leave it for 24 hours.
Borrow a boroscope and check the valve and piston crown with the head on (or else you'll have to pull that head.) If no obvious dings install new pushrod and do a compression test - this will reveal whether the valve got bent/is moving OK.
If the piston looks good and the compression test is OK I would leave it there, otherwise do the extra bits Ian said above. The piston will show a telltale ding if it meets the valve.
this was the engine about 10 days ago........could it run this smooth with a bust rod?
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/gmw9666/media/IM...
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/gmw9666/media/IM...
gmw9666 said:
this was the engine about 10 days ago........could it run this smooth with a bust rod?
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/gmw9666/media/IM...
Hi Glen , http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/gmw9666/media/IM...
I'm no expert but that doesn't sound right to me. Even My griff with a worn round exhaust cam lobe sounded better.
I hope the new engine is a good one....
Regards
Geoff.
Well I just want to say a REALLY BIG THANK YOU for the phone call a few minutes ago (you know who you are)
Later today I was going to send the below message..........I was really at the end of my tether............not in a good place following last nights findings
Thank you, I have renewed vigor........my ugly duckling will be a beautiful swan.........she will she will :-)
Thread Title = Sad day……………sell or strip?
All, as you are aware I recently bought the wee beastie as a tax’d and mot’d rolling restoration with a view to enjoy the noise, the driving and complete the odd jobs as I went
As I’ve got into the tinkering and more and more problems arose the latest engine issue of the pushrod being snapped has been the straw that has broken the camel’s back
The plan given some of the problems that cropped up was to rebuild a lighter, smoother, less fussy wedge given she’d already been modified I felt was not impacting the originality, keep things simple I thought like selling the engine / SC etc to have a 5.0 running on carbs etc……………..a Wedge Superleggera was my vision
So with this latest calamity I now have a stripped out car, in bits that when I look at the to do list or sorting the wiring……….sorting the chassis……….and how sorting the engine…………the costs associate to rectifying this ever growing list I simply have to say STOP……………………there is too much now to do and way more than I wanted to spend
I know TVR ownership is a tough road but this has stretched me to the point of no return 
In short I face a difficult choice……………..do I strip her for parts to recoup some £££ as there is no way she is worth anything like now vs what I paid……………but doing this would kill another wedge and she is one of the first 25 DHC ever
Or do I sell her “as is” no questions asked and loose my shirt?
I simply do not know what to do………..I feel stuck between a rock and a hard place so welcome everyone’s thoughts please
Later today I was going to send the below message..........I was really at the end of my tether............not in a good place following last nights findings
Thank you, I have renewed vigor........my ugly duckling will be a beautiful swan.........she will she will :-)
Thread Title = Sad day……………sell or strip?
All, as you are aware I recently bought the wee beastie as a tax’d and mot’d rolling restoration with a view to enjoy the noise, the driving and complete the odd jobs as I went
As I’ve got into the tinkering and more and more problems arose the latest engine issue of the pushrod being snapped has been the straw that has broken the camel’s back
The plan given some of the problems that cropped up was to rebuild a lighter, smoother, less fussy wedge given she’d already been modified I felt was not impacting the originality, keep things simple I thought like selling the engine / SC etc to have a 5.0 running on carbs etc……………..a Wedge Superleggera was my vision
So with this latest calamity I now have a stripped out car, in bits that when I look at the to do list or sorting the wiring……….sorting the chassis……….and how sorting the engine…………the costs associate to rectifying this ever growing list I simply have to say STOP……………………there is too much now to do and way more than I wanted to spend
I know TVR ownership is a tough road but this has stretched me to the point of no return 
In short I face a difficult choice……………..do I strip her for parts to recoup some £££ as there is no way she is worth anything like now vs what I paid……………but doing this would kill another wedge and she is one of the first 25 DHC ever
Or do I sell her “as is” no questions asked and loose my shirt?
I simply do not know what to do………..I feel stuck between a rock and a hard place so welcome everyone’s thoughts please
Hi Mate..I know its no consolation but would something like this be the answer..Its not a 5.0ltr but its much cheaper and might allow you to enjoy a Wedge while the weather is getting better, You could always re-sell later on..Im sure someone would be interested....Just a thought...Ziga
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-v8-3-9-sd1-range-r...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-v8-3-9-sd1-range-r...
Need to understand the extent of the problem first. Drop sump, also borescope into the bores. Once you've got a good picture of the problem then you can make a reasoned decision.
Alternatively, fit a known good 3.5 (perhaps with a carb for simplicity) then rebuild the broken engine at your leisure.
Alternatively, fit a known good 3.5 (perhaps with a carb for simplicity) then rebuild the broken engine at your leisure.
Bobby Shaftoe said:
Well those look like comp cams valve spring retainers, which are much better than the stock retainers TVR used (which are prone to splitting). Also looks like ported heads in the previous pictures which is nice!
Check for witness marks on the other pushrods at the point where they pass through small circular hole in the cylinder head, it's not unusual for them to rub on the head when the valve train geometry hasn't been set up properly, which it usually isn't.
ETA - it looks like you have spacers/shims under the rocker pedestals as well.
It should be = Big valve stage 2 cylinder heads, 3 angle valves with bulleted valve stems, composite gaskets, Blower cam, Rhodes hi-rev lifters, Crane duplex cam chain and sprocketsCheck for witness marks on the other pushrods at the point where they pass through small circular hole in the cylinder head, it's not unusual for them to rub on the head when the valve train geometry hasn't been set up properly, which it usually isn't.
ETA - it looks like you have spacers/shims under the rocker pedestals as well.
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