Last corner almost off...
Discussion
Not been in the garage for over a week......so needing to get my backside back into gear
Few house last night taking out the final OSR suspension
The driveshaft to diff bolt were a real nightmare, my Irwin bolt grippers saved the day though yeah :-)
like the other side the lower hub / suspension bolt is proper seized and I need to cut through the trailing around bolt as that is a right mess
What makes me wonder, virtually every single bush / ball joint etc were seized solid, how it actually handled as well as it did I have no idea lol
Tonights task is to remove the diff from the cradle, all the nuts are undone so its just a man handling affair. One plus was the top diff mount bolts all came off very easy, I guess 2 weeks of WD40 have helped
Then I need to sort out my big pile of rusty parts ready for blasting / coating
Few house last night taking out the final OSR suspension
The driveshaft to diff bolt were a real nightmare, my Irwin bolt grippers saved the day though yeah :-)
like the other side the lower hub / suspension bolt is proper seized and I need to cut through the trailing around bolt as that is a right mess
What makes me wonder, virtually every single bush / ball joint etc were seized solid, how it actually handled as well as it did I have no idea lol
Tonights task is to remove the diff from the cradle, all the nuts are undone so its just a man handling affair. One plus was the top diff mount bolts all came off very easy, I guess 2 weeks of WD40 have helped
Then I need to sort out my big pile of rusty parts ready for blasting / coating
gmw9666 said:
forgot to add.......the rear discs have no lip so must have pretty low miles but look a right state
anyone got any tips to refresh them to remove the rust on the center / outer edge.......can you blast them or is that too harsh?
You can blast them, it won't hurt (some will claim microscopic particles get stuck in the surface however...) - I did mine and also skimmed the faces and edge in a lathe, they're plenty thick enough to tolerate that anyone got any tips to refresh them to remove the rust on the center / outer edge.......can you blast them or is that too harsh?
gmw9666 said:
Not been in the garage for over a week......so needing to get my backside back into gear
Few house last night taking out the final OSR suspension
The driveshaft to diff bolt were a real nightmare, my Irwin bolt grippers saved the day though yeah :-)
like the other side the lower hub / suspension bolt is proper seized and I need to cut through the trailing around bolt as that is a right mess
What makes me wonder, virtually every single bush / ball joint etc were seized solid, how it actually handled as well as it did I have no idea lol
Tonights task is to remove the diff from the cradle, all the nuts are undone so its just a man handling affair. One plus was the top diff mount bolts all came off very easy, I guess 2 weeks of WD40 have helped
Then I need to sort out my big pile of rusty parts ready for blasting / coating
Go-karts don't have suspension either!Few house last night taking out the final OSR suspension
The driveshaft to diff bolt were a real nightmare, my Irwin bolt grippers saved the day though yeah :-)
like the other side the lower hub / suspension bolt is proper seized and I need to cut through the trailing around bolt as that is a right mess
What makes me wonder, virtually every single bush / ball joint etc were seized solid, how it actually handled as well as it did I have no idea lol
Tonights task is to remove the diff from the cradle, all the nuts are undone so its just a man handling affair. One plus was the top diff mount bolts all came off very easy, I guess 2 weeks of WD40 have helped
Then I need to sort out my big pile of rusty parts ready for blasting / coating
If you have them on the car you can rest a running angle grinder against the face and skim them a bit as you rotate the axle (keep the grinder in the same place).
I learnt this after watching truck racing on the telly - this is what they do between races to remove scoring and it works - you get no judder or anything. The pads finish off the cleaning-up.
I learnt this after watching truck racing on the telly - this is what they do between races to remove scoring and it works - you get no judder or anything. The pads finish off the cleaning-up.
It's a good job I had 3 weetabix today, the diff cradle nuts came off easy enough but the back 2 bolts just would not slide out, they turn freely in their holes but will not budge regardless how hard I hit them
Any suggestions?
So bicep power and some old seat belts and I lifted the diff out via the top
Was actually expecting it to be a bit heavier
Any suggestions?
So bicep power and some old seat belts and I lifted the diff out via the top
Was actually expecting it to be a bit heavier
Have a good look at the threads on those 8 studs that secure the half-shafts/ discs: I'd rebuilt my diff before I remembered that I'd intended to change some of them... now it's a full stripdown again to change the bu99ers 
They're a special bolt with a wider shank to make them a press-fit in the flanges, you can't get them out with the flanges still on the diff, or with the stub shafts removed, you have to strip each stub shaft to get the bearing housing off before you can knock the studs out.
They're a special bolt with a wider shank to make them a press-fit in the flanges, you can't get them out with the flanges still on the diff, or with the stub shafts removed, you have to strip each stub shaft to get the bearing housing off before you can knock the studs out.
Wedg1e said:
Have a good look at the threads on those 8 studs that secure the half-shafts/ discs: I'd rebuilt my diff before I remembered that I'd intended to change some of them... now it's a full stripdown again to change the bu99ers
They're a special bolt with a wider shank to make them a press-fit in the flanges, you can't get them out with the flanges still on the diff, or with the stub shafts removed, you have to strip each stub shaft to get the bearing housing off before you can knock the studs out.
I have already sheared one of the bolts off so I'm going to have to open it up, may as well have it rebuilt if I'm doing that, as you say no point doing any of these tough jobs twiceThey're a special bolt with a wider shank to make them a press-fit in the flanges, you can't get them out with the flanges still on the diff, or with the stub shafts removed, you have to strip each stub shaft to get the bearing housing off before you can knock the studs out.
Anyone know who would i could use and is cost effective to rebuild a diff?
gmw9666 said:
I have already sheared one of the bolts off so I'm going to have to open it up, may as well have it rebuilt if I'm doing that, as you say no point doing any of these tough jobs twice
Anyone know who would i could use and is cost effective to rebuild a diff?
Do it yourself, you've come this far Anyone know who would i could use and is cost effective to rebuild a diff?
http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p13.ht...
Mine has done 120K with no measurable wear. I even re-used the output bearings because I couldn't find a good reason to replace them - and there's a chance that some modern Chinese-made rubbish would fall apart at the first bootful.
Just replace the output and pinion seals and refill with fresh oil, new gasket on the back and a coat of paint and it'll see you out, I guarantee it
Wedg1e said:
Do it yourself, you've come this far
http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p13.ht...
Mine has done 120K with no measurable wear. I even re-used the output bearings because I couldn't find a good reason to replace them - and there's a chance that some modern Chinese-made rubbish would fall apart at the first bootful.
Just replace the output and pinion seals and refill with fresh oil, new gasket on the back and a coat of paint and it'll see you out, I guarantee it
Ha Ian, I love that you think I could handle this, but I think I will pass and let someone more skilled do it, I'd be more comfortable that way. (Let me know when i can drop it off lol) Ditto on the drive shafts, I want them doing as well. In for a penny in for a pound. Already found someone local who's gong to rebuild the gearbox and remote linkage and also found a jag specialist who"ll refurb my caliper s (freshen my wms ones at the front and full rebuild at the rear) and reprint all 4 to match. They will even Stencil on a tvr logo on the side of my caliper if I want. Cool hey.http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p13.ht...
Mine has done 120K with no measurable wear. I even re-used the output bearings because I couldn't find a good reason to replace them - and there's a chance that some modern Chinese-made rubbish would fall apart at the first bootful.
Just replace the output and pinion seals and refill with fresh oil, new gasket on the back and a coat of paint and it'll see you out, I guarantee it
Plus given all the surprises this damn car has given me I would be surprised if I took the back off its filled with chocolate sauce and the gears are made of wood lol
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