Didn't fail the MOT.........because it didn't get there!!
Discussion
Yes - true to stereotype it broke down 3/4 mile up the road. Engine felt and sounded great then mild bang/basckfire from exhaust and immediate cut out.
Tried to restart and it wanted to go - it was firing and running for a couple of seconds at a time but wouldn't sustain.
It was then I found out there's no way of towing one of these b
ds. so we pushed it home. to the occasional cheer.
It has cut out at idle a couple of times while I've been sorting the running - eaach time it has been like someone turning the ignition off i.e. immediate, but I've always managed to restart it with a bit of churning and coughing.
It's done this random cutting out with a spare ECU and on two different AFMs - the fuel pressure has always been good at the time of cut out. It is clearly electrical but brutal - either complete failure of spark or injectors failing to fire. It also, as I remember, has only happened when the engine is warm so I'm thinking sensor affected by heat possibly. A friend had a similar cut out problem and it was ignition amp but it's had a new ignition amp.
I have never hated a car quite as much as I hate this thing right at this moment, lol!
Tried to restart and it wanted to go - it was firing and running for a couple of seconds at a time but wouldn't sustain.
It was then I found out there's no way of towing one of these b
ds. so we pushed it home. to the occasional cheer.It has cut out at idle a couple of times while I've been sorting the running - eaach time it has been like someone turning the ignition off i.e. immediate, but I've always managed to restart it with a bit of churning and coughing.
It's done this random cutting out with a spare ECU and on two different AFMs - the fuel pressure has always been good at the time of cut out. It is clearly electrical but brutal - either complete failure of spark or injectors failing to fire. It also, as I remember, has only happened when the engine is warm so I'm thinking sensor affected by heat possibly. A friend had a similar cut out problem and it was ignition amp but it's had a new ignition amp.
I have never hated a car quite as much as I hate this thing right at this moment, lol!
Skyedriver said:
Fuel?
Water in it or dirt, blocking the filter/injectors/other stuff that fuel flows in?
A problem with the old BMW 2002tii was dirt in the tank getting sucked up to the I tank filter cutting off the supply. Engine stops, sucking stops dirt falls to bottom of tank. Repeat.....
Exactly !! I had the same problem with mine (colorado orange version !!!!). There were several (fuel system) filters including, as I recall, one in the front of the Kugelfischer pump. Water in it or dirt, blocking the filter/injectors/other stuff that fuel flows in?
A problem with the old BMW 2002tii was dirt in the tank getting sucked up to the I tank filter cutting off the supply. Engine stops, sucking stops dirt falls to bottom of tank. Repeat.....
There's always been good fuel pressure to the rail when it's cut out - I have fuel pressure gauge (temporarily) on the cold start feed.
I mate of mine had this random complete cutting out like the ignition key was turned off and it was his ignition amp on his Chim. I have stuck a new ignition amp on but I never got this problem with the old one so may swap back as test tonight.
I mate of mine had this random complete cutting out like the ignition key was turned off and it was his ignition amp on his Chim. I have stuck a new ignition amp on but I never got this problem with the old one so may swap back as test tonight.
Timing bang on - removed and refitted ecu a couple of times at roadside as well as as resaeting cap leads, bullet connector for ignition amp and anything elses wobbly-able (new word)
May just whack new dizzy in for hell of it and to cross it off the list.
Could crank sensor crapping out cause this?
May just whack new dizzy in for hell of it and to cross it off the list.
Could crank sensor crapping out cause this?
Do you have it running now or not? Before you go replacing stuff again check:
a) spark at the king lead
b) replace king lead check spark at a plug lead.
If no (a) then it could be the amp but equally it needs the pickup coil inside the dizzy working to trigger the amp.
If (a) but no (b) then check dizzy cap and rotor arm and that plug lead.
a) spark at the king lead
b) replace king lead check spark at a plug lead.
If no (a) then it could be the amp but equally it needs the pickup coil inside the dizzy working to trigger the amp.
If (a) but no (b) then check dizzy cap and rotor arm and that plug lead.
adam quantrill said:
Do you have it running now or not? Before you go replacing stuff again check:
a) spark at the king lead
b) replace king lead check spark at a plug lead.
If no (a) then it could be the amp but equally it needs the pickup coil inside the dizzy working to trigger the amp.
If (a) but no (b) then check dizzy cap and rotor arm and that plug lead.
Flattened battery using starter to move it over some steep bumps so don't know whether currently running.a) spark at the king lead
b) replace king lead check spark at a plug lead.
If no (a) then it could be the amp but equally it needs the pickup coil inside the dizzy working to trigger the amp.
If (a) but no (b) then check dizzy cap and rotor arm and that plug lead.
I checked king lead at roadside and spark present. It wanted to run but wouldn't sustain it. In the end it was flooded so no hope.
It has brand new Lucas dizzy cap and rotor arm last weekend.
smash said:
In the end it was flooded
Hi Mate..Sounds strange if you are getting fuel and a spark..The timing is spot on..Its had new coil..Rotor arm..Leads...Ignition Amp...What plugs are in it..Have you left the Champions in?....How clean/New is the Air filter...Was it doing this with the old coil fitted?..Be careful not to change too much without making a note of it and its effect if any... Sometimes the adding of a handful of new components can confuse the issue...You need to backtrack a bit before it gets too cloudy...If there is one thing i have learnt about the V8 so far its learning to be methodical...Stepping backwards to go forwards sometimes...There were times when i thought my misfire was the AFM or the TPS or the ECU or lack of fuel...Maybe the symptoms are the same but the pattern is different..i:e if it was an electrical /Mechanical issue say the TPS or the AFM then it would surely be at a specific point in the RPM...Mine was timing and we are only talking 2 degrees..I wouldn't trust any pulley marks.Im just guessing with the could be's...But you never know...Cheers...Ziga
People have had problem with after market Rotors and caps, I know you said yours are lucas, but it still could be the problem, I'd go back to the original cap and rotor you had on before the problem, if you still have them.
I know you have put a lot of new stuff on that should have made things better, but maybe best to put as much back on as before and then fit new items 1 by 1.
I know you have put a lot of new stuff on that should have made things better, but maybe best to put as much back on as before and then fit new items 1 by 1.
Check the spark at the end of the plug lead then (you have to stuff a screwdriver in but don't hold it!)
My new rotor arm lasted a couple of weeks and then broke down - it looked good except for one black dot which was a carbonised bit of plastic that had been broken down. Put the old one back on - instant joy!
If that fails go back to the old dizzy cap too.
My new rotor arm lasted a couple of weeks and then broke down - it looked good except for one black dot which was a carbonised bit of plastic that had been broken down. Put the old one back on - instant joy!
If that fails go back to the old dizzy cap too.
smash said:
Yeah you're right flapper - didn't realise no crank sensor - it gets signal from negative of coil?
I just stuck a nice shiny chrome coil on (Powerspark) and am now thinking I should go original equipment
From honestjohntoo's website:I just stuck a nice shiny chrome coil on (Powerspark) and am now thinking I should go original equipment
If the fault is now permanently "on" then you have a much better chance to resolve than with intermittent faults. Start with the basics: spark, fuel, compression. The engine has run recently and you haven't changed anything immediately prior to the latest fault occurring, but don't exclude new components failing. I think you've said that it was flooded at the road side, so looks like fuel is OK. You need a big fat spark. Did you say that you had some HT lead spark testers? Very useful for indicating at a glance that there is current flowing through the HT lead(s).
Suggest mark plug leads and dizzy cap with cylinder numbers to prevent inadvertent swapping of plug leads during fault finding. Otherwise you'll end up with 2 cold exhaust headers.
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