10 volts showing with fully charged battery?
Discussion
When I went to start car it was showing 10 volts and turning key to start just created a "prrrrrrrrrrrrrr" sound form one of the relays on the board.
I tried again a few times and then all of a sudden got 12 volts and the starter motor fire albeit intermittantly but the car started and ran fine. I shut down and again got the 12v but intermittant starter motor firing whilst key held in start position. the car started fine though.
Today back to 10 volts showing and down to nothing when in crank position. No amount of pulling and pushing wires going into the steering cowelling or relay board makes any difference.
Bearing in mind I used the starter motor to move the car a bit when it broke down I'm wondering if it's anything to do with that?
Should be on the road for winter at this rate, lol!
Anyway, I took the wheels off today as they're going into to Alloy Art in Rochford for full diamond cut refurb and at least felt pretty good about the state of my chassis
I tried again a few times and then all of a sudden got 12 volts and the starter motor fire albeit intermittantly but the car started and ran fine. I shut down and again got the 12v but intermittant starter motor firing whilst key held in start position. the car started fine though.
Today back to 10 volts showing and down to nothing when in crank position. No amount of pulling and pushing wires going into the steering cowelling or relay board makes any difference.
Bearing in mind I used the starter motor to move the car a bit when it broke down I'm wondering if it's anything to do with that?
Should be on the road for winter at this rate, lol!
Anyway, I took the wheels off today as they're going into to Alloy Art in Rochford for full diamond cut refurb and at least felt pretty good about the state of my chassis
Edited by smash on Sunday 18th May 15:38
Meter the battery and see if it is charging (when running obviously). My gauge shows low, once in a while I go through it with a meter. 12.5V at least at rest and over 13.5 when the engine is running. If it is dropping like that then a flat battery perhaps? Bad Earth if 12v suddenly popped up I would have thought. Possible a poor connection at the battery, block or starter?
Earth is the easiest to check, clean up the block connections. The starter motor can also have an effect if the cable to terminal post is high resistance. IF you dabble at the starter motor end disconnect the end on the battery or it will get very messy and ouchy and possibly burny.
Earth is the easiest to check, clean up the block connections. The starter motor can also have an effect if the cable to terminal post is high resistance. IF you dabble at the starter motor end disconnect the end on the battery or it will get very messy and ouchy and possibly burny.
Battery cables tight - I took battery off and stuck on charge anyway just in case so didn't check voltage across actual battery.
Just dropped wheels off at Alloy Art - back on Wednesday - I seem to remember diamonds are a girls best friend so I'm hoping she might start behaving herself when she gets her diamonds (well, diamond cut!).
Just dropped wheels off at Alloy Art - back on Wednesday - I seem to remember diamonds are a girls best friend so I'm hoping she might start behaving herself when she gets her diamonds (well, diamond cut!).
Weird - it did just look like a flat battery. Think I'm just losing my nerve a bit with the old girl these days.
Freshly charged and showing 13.8 direct on battery. Back in car and showing 13 on gauge - didn't try to fire it up as it's on axle stands currently. Checked current draw when ignition off and largely insiginificant (IIRC it was 0.004 on 200ma setting)
Intermittant starter motor was traced to the solenoid trigger wire appearing to have a bit of sheething melt and some exposed wire which was right on top of chassis rail so likely shorting. All repaired and re-routed and rerady for return of shiny wheels...
Freshly charged and showing 13.8 direct on battery. Back in car and showing 13 on gauge - didn't try to fire it up as it's on axle stands currently. Checked current draw when ignition off and largely insiginificant (IIRC it was 0.004 on 200ma setting)
Intermittant starter motor was traced to the solenoid trigger wire appearing to have a bit of sheething melt and some exposed wire which was right on top of chassis rail so likely shorting. All repaired and re-routed and rerady for return of shiny wheels...
Not a cast iron test as it sounds like this may not be the case but if the car is not going anywhere, one to rule out. We have several battery applications in work and one test is to disconnect and see how the voltage drops over time. e.g. We had one charged up to 12.5+ and let it stand for an hour then rechecked and it was at 10volts disconnected. It was getting a good charge off the charger (not alternator, different application). Not sure what the long time test vs voltage should be.
On mine I know a good charge will keep it usable for two weeks without starting. Security, clock and radio current draw etc.
On mine I know a good charge will keep it usable for two weeks without starting. Security, clock and radio current draw etc.
Smash,
Check your grounds (earths), i'm going through a major electrical issue right now and cleaning up the earth was the #1 culprit and solved most of my issues with voltage etc. Then i was a moron and accidentally arced the fuel pump and have no power again.
However before that issue cleaning the following earth straps on my 280i solved every single electrical issue I was having.
Check your grounds (earths), i'm going through a major electrical issue right now and cleaning up the earth was the #1 culprit and solved most of my issues with voltage etc. Then i was a moron and accidentally arced the fuel pump and have no power again.
However before that issue cleaning the following earth straps on my 280i solved every single electrical issue I was having.
- Front left/right straps connecting from the frame to the control arms
- both straps underneath the passenger dash (they make an X and attach from the center console to the frame.
- Strap coming from the Rear of the transmission to the frame.
When you charge up a lead-acid battery with a duff cell (low on acid) it will return 13V for a while due to the gasses on the plates. But this will soon drop off.
If you put a low load on it (say the interior light) it should hold up with 11.5-12V on the terminals for hours on end. If it soon drops to 10V again you know you have a duff cell. I use a hydrometer on mine to check them but beware that battery acid is nasty stuff - full of lead - not to be messed with!
If you put a low load on it (say the interior light) it should hold up with 11.5-12V on the terminals for hours on end. If it soon drops to 10V again you know you have a duff cell. I use a hydrometer on mine to check them but beware that battery acid is nasty stuff - full of lead - not to be messed with!
Iv'e had that problem with a dud cell - it can show some weird symptoms.
As Adam said, mine would show 13v after being charged, and even turn the engine over, slowly, but enough to start it.
Then after a while, even when driving, it could go completely dud and I would just get a click when trying to start it.
Even voltmeter showed OK when engine running.
I noticed (again as Adam says) that voltage would drop within a couple of minutes with headlamps on, and they would go quite dim... That's when I knew what I really needed was a new battery, not to keep checking the wiring !
As Adam said, mine would show 13v after being charged, and even turn the engine over, slowly, but enough to start it.
Then after a while, even when driving, it could go completely dud and I would just get a click when trying to start it.
Even voltmeter showed OK when engine running.
I noticed (again as Adam says) that voltage would drop within a couple of minutes with headlamps on, and they would go quite dim... That's when I knew what I really needed was a new battery, not to keep checking the wiring !
I've become such a girl with this car not gonna try and start until it's back on terra firma!
Alloy Art said getting the paint out of the cross spokes was taking a bit longer than expected but that'll they'll look stunning when done - I reckon prolly Monday they'll be back then I've got to get MOT and then get a few sanity miles on it before the fest. Can't wait to see these wheels!
Alloy Art said getting the paint out of the cross spokes was taking a bit longer than expected but that'll they'll look stunning when done - I reckon prolly Monday they'll be back then I've got to get MOT and then get a few sanity miles on it before the fest. Can't wait to see these wheels!
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