Exhaust manifold removal - how the *!%$!!!

[smash]

I have a crack apparently - plus some of the bolts were loose so I expect the gaskets may be done for - so need to get these suckers off. It looks impossible to do it in situ to me - can it be done is or is it engine move/out job?

[tweety]

I have replaced the nearside one due to cracks etc and its tricky but do-able, some bolts from above and some from under the wheelarch, a good socket set is essential...I believe the offside one is also possible but I seem to remember someone on here saying the starter motor needs to be removed to get the manifold out from underneath..

Cheers, Al.

[dixiebabes]

Mine didn't have gaskets at the exhaust manifold!!

Dix

[Oz2]

hi all,
this is a job I'm looking at doing too....any tips welcome also.
i think i took both manifolds off my old 350 in situ then took the engine out but that was nearly 20 years ago
i want to fit a sensor and while I'm at it get the manifolds ceramic coated, so they look good of course and more importantly keep the heat in, another step closer to a cooler engine compartment.

cheers
Adam

haven't forgotten Al....

[MrPicky]

Are you sure there is a crack ?

Could the diagnosis of the loose bolts suspected a crack that isn't actually there?

nip the bolts up and see if it cures the problem before spending time and skin removing the manifold.

Russ

[smash]

No not 100% - I took the car to Formula 1 first and they had it up and diagnosed the crack - they pointed out where the gob was on the manifold but I never saw a crack myself. This is why I went down to Pipecraft in Basildon but he didn't have the time of day unfortunately.

TBH I'm now at the stage with the car whether I throw more time and money at it or just out it and take a big hit. I've completely lost my nerve with it.

[GV]

The easiest way is to support the engine, remove both engine mounts change them at the same time as it's a good opportunity to do so you will get easier movement without them. Remove the O/S Manifold first once done you will then have enough space to shift the engine over to access the N/S manifold bolts. Refit is the reverse offer the manifolds from the underside tighten then drop the engine back onto its mounts.

[tbernd]

Hi,

three weeks ago I moved the engine out twice because when pulling out the clutch slave the fork came with it.
The manifold of the right side (looking on the engine) is no problem but for the other side you need to remove the starter and move the engine a bit to get the manifold out. I worked with a 9/16 combination wrench and it was no problem to get the bolts out.Good luck.

Cheers

Bernd

[tweety]

Thats a good point, try it again with all the bolts nipped up and maybe if you can't see a crack change the gaskets whilst leaving the manifolds in situ....my nearside was completely shot so had to be changed but the offside one only had a small crack a the top of one pipe so \i was able to get it welded in situ....

Don't give up it'll all be worth it in the end...

Cheers, Al.

PS...no problem Adam whenever is convenient.

[Convert]

I once used a product called fire seal 2000 on my wedge (which had a cracked manifold). It held for a couple of years.

I then decided to take the manifolds off, to renew the gaskets and weld them up properly.

bh of a job, took me over 8 hours.

Had to undo engine mountings, take starter motor off, jack car up and remove manifolds through bottom of chassis.

[Toby Tram]

This thread sounds interesting!!!!

My 350i goes in to the garage on Tuesday to have downpipes and the full system replaced. I'm hoping that they don't have any difficulties!!

I have loosened a couple of the manifold bolts and re-tightened them just to check that they seem to move OK. The last thing I want, a week and a half before Le Mans, is a broken bolt!!

Adi

[adam quantrill]

Agree - retighten the bolts they can come loose - usually the gasket is fine underneath.

If you do get a crack don't panic - a lot of them can be welded in situ either from the engine bay or wheel arch. Usually a gob of weld on top does the trick.

[simonwedge]

I didn't find it too much of a job when I changed my manifolds for s/s ones. Took two of us a couple of hours - didn't touch the engine mounts - just dropped the starter motor out to allow the drivers side manifold to drop out the bottom.

[Wedg1e]

It's easier to get at the manifold bolts if you take the front wheels off and work through the wheelarches.

[matt-man]

Its absolutely doable. Dont get me wrong, its not a nice I job but ive done it 3 times with the body on...

first time out for repair as I had cracks on both sides.

second time straight afterwards as I didnt use the larger manifold gaskets (used standard range rover as didn't know they were different)

Third time as they rotted out at the bottom so I put a second had set on.

4th time I did it with the body off and spent the money on act stainless as I never want to do the job ever again! Lol!

Sounds like you have lost the patience with her and really you want a chim. My advice is get what your heart tells you. I can spend hours swearing and kicking mine when it is broken but I do it because when it works its amazing. Good luck!

Remember its a old car and will need fettling, they all do. The grass isn't always greener I assure you, but if your not in love

[smash]

You're right but I know realistically - bottom line - I need to sort the problems in order to sell and even then I think it'll be hard to shift tbh (it owes me 6k)

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

Convert said:

I once used a product called fire seal 2000 on my wedge (which had a cracked manifold). It held for a couple of years.

I then decided to take the manifolds off, to renew the gaskets and weld them up properly.

bh of a job, took me over 8 hours.

Had to undo engine mountings, take starter motor off, jack car up and remove manifolds through bottom of chassis.

As said above, your need to move the engine up, a little to get the OS one off. NS comes off easy ish.

I got quite a bit on, but I think your in Essex, so I could do it for you but have to be after the 15th of June.

If you have them off I can weld them up for you before this, as that will not take long.

[smash]

Really appreciate the offer! If I've not got anywhere by then then absolutely - just grateful of any help.

[Wedg1e]

smash said:

You're right but I know realistically - bottom line - I need to sort the problems in order to sell and even then I think it'll be hard to shift tbh (it owes me 6k)

Obvious answer is: don't sell
I paid over £6K for my car in 2000, I worried it might be a lot of money but on the scale of life's expenses it's not. A mate of mine reckons that by the time his kids finish education it'll have cost him £265,000.
I wouldn't be able to sleep at night

[njhucker]

I have taken mine off twice. The near side is not a problem. I put the front wheels on ramps. I then use a draper transmission jack with an axle stand on it under the crank pulley. Unbolt the engine mounts and take off the offside one. Jack up the engine a couple of inches and it will give plenty of room for the manifold to come out.