350I WATER TEMPERATURE
Discussion
Yep. Bleeds the lock out a treat. Undid the cap and a satisfying hiss for a while until the water came out. Under the cap is a a small hole, around a mm and a bit.
Not sure on why the airlock does what it does but the pipe from the swan neack to the top of the expansion tank is a small bore so thinking of changing that. Also it used to run under the airflow meter but raising it has stopped water coollecting there and improved it somewhat to getting the air back to staying in the tank.......I think
>> Edited by jmorgan on Tuesday 7th December 21:38
Not sure on why the airlock does what it does but the pipe from the swan neack to the top of the expansion tank is a small bore so thinking of changing that. Also it used to run under the airflow meter but raising it has stopped water coollecting there and improved it somewhat to getting the air back to staying in the tank.......I think
>> Edited by jmorgan on Tuesday 7th December 21:38
I'm learning that with wedges it can be the simplest of things (as well as the complex). 
Had a similar temperature gauge issue and after much angst and effort discovered it was the simplest and cheapest of things related... the almost 20 year old sender was failing. Replaced same, and the "problem" was solved. Worth a try.
And I like the air vent, use one on my swimming pool pump for the same reasons
Had a similar temperature gauge issue and after much angst and effort discovered it was the simplest and cheapest of things related... the almost 20 year old sender was failing. Replaced same, and the "problem" was solved. Worth a try.
And I like the air vent, use one on my swimming pool pump for the same reasons
jmorgan said:
I have been having a big problem with heater air locks. Solved by doing this. 
Hope the pipe isn't too long but for some reason the air from the expansion tank end up in the heater or swan neck?
Jeff,
It maybe out of the picture but I can't see a bypass on the heater hoses ?
Whilst the bleed off is an elegant solution I have found that re-siting the expansion tank on the windscreen bulkhead, centrally next to the plenum, allows it to be fitted much higher up so that the level of coolant is higher than the heater hoses and the swan neck. Since doing this I have never had an airlock problem.
It also frees up some space to relocate the afm and air filter in a straight line from the throttle body. This can then be boxed off from the engine bay and fed via a large hose from the front of the car thereby reducing intake temp.
Morning Bob. By pass is there, before the valve. I have also elevated the tank as high as the bonnet will allow in its present location. There seems to be no single fix but rather a few nudges here and there. Will investigate the central bulkhead location to see if I can gain any more hieght. Every little bit helps.
Still got airlock,my tap I fitting doesn't seem to work,I have drain and refiled rad as it says in Wedge maintenance book (bible),but still only get luke warm air coming out,yet both heater hoses are hot.Perhaps I have fitted tap (air lock breather on to wrong pipe).Its amazing how many problems you can get on these cars.
Could still be an air lock I guess, depending how the inlet and outlet area arranged on yours. An other possibility is that the internals have got scaled up. Radiators stop working when they're silted up, don't see why heaters should be any different. It may be possible to clear it by using a descaling solution.
GreenV8S said:
Could still be an air lock I guess, depending how the inlet and outlet area arranged on yours. An other possibility is that the internals have got scaled up. Radiators stop working when they're silted up, don't see why heaters should be any different. It may be possible to clear it by using a descaling solution.
I would try a high pressure wash in both directions first and if using a descaler make sure you only put it in the heater and then flush through as otherwise you may block the rad with the gunge it may loosen up.
Check for leaks from the heater after using it as well
dukeenfield said:
Which way does water flow,is it from top to bottom?
God only knows on yours, the manifolds are all basically the same but the rest of the plumbing is all TVR special and will no doubt vary from model to model.
You should find two hoses coming up out of the gap between the valley gasket and the inlet manifold, at the back of the engine. The one on the near side is the feed, the other is the return. What happens between there and the heater though, is anybody's guess.
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