PAS steering rack
Discussion
Never done any work on PAS systems before, but I would assume the gaiter are just for keeping dust and grime out.
But the one I'm working on was full of oil both sides, plus both side seemed to have a pipe near the end that had nothing stopping it from feeding fluid directly into the gaiter. so not sure if something is missing. so not sure if these are overflow pipes.
Anyone have an exploded diagram. but looks like rack may need to a refurbish.
done some searching and seem the pipes at the end are breather pipes.
But the Rack does not seem to be Cortina or SD1
But the one I'm working on was full of oil both sides, plus both side seemed to have a pipe near the end that had nothing stopping it from feeding fluid directly into the gaiter. so not sure if something is missing. so not sure if these are overflow pipes.
Anyone have an exploded diagram. but looks like rack may need to a refurbish.
done some searching and seem the pipes at the end are breather pipes.
But the Rack does not seem to be Cortina or SD1
Edited by TVRleigh_BBWR on Friday 20th June 00:17
Hi Leigh...The rack i had on Delilah was a Cortina one and had the air pipes going to the gaiters, I believe as one side gets closed when the wheel is turned the air from it is passed to the other side to avoid it in effect popping the clips off or splitting the actual gaiter..You might have the "Supra" rack that was engineered specially for TVR and if its leaking into the gaiters then it will most definitely need a refurb...Ziga
Edited by mrzigazaga on Friday 20th June 00:36
The gaiters stop the road grit getting onto the control arms and then wearing away the seals, which leads to wear and leaking. I may have a diagram and will have a look this evening and post if I do, I thought the rack was a sealed unit and hence didn't need air bleed pipes, but I may be wrong.. Either way they should not leak fluid, any fluid leak is a seal gone..
mrzigazaga said:
As said the breather pipes should not be able to leak fluid as they are literally just connected to the outside of the rack and extend from one gaiter to the other..However there are fluid pipes also on the outside of the rack, Here is the Supra TVR engineered rack fitted from 1985 onwards....Ziga

Thanks mark, yea that's the one I have.Sounds like the seals have gone if its filling up the gaiter...That was happening to mine on the 280....Power steering services are pretty good for refurbing, There is one in Romford....They should collect and if you are in a 25 mile radius its free collection and delivery, If not i don't think its that expensive..Cheers...Ziga
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...
mrzigazaga said:
Sounds like the seals have gone if its filling up the gaiter...That was happening to mine on the 280....Power steering services are pretty good for refurbing, There is one in Romford....They should collect and if you are in a 25 mile radius its free collection and delivery, If not i don't think its that expensive..Cheers...Ziga
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...
I used them earlier this year (the one in Greenwich, or nearby) and they were good. About £130. I dropped it off and they sent it back. Very pleased.http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...
A.
mrzigazaga said:
Sounds like the seals have gone if its filling up the gaiter...That was happening to mine on the 280....Power steering services are pretty good for refurbing, There is one in Romford....They should collect and if you are in a 25 mile radius its free collection and delivery, If not i don't think its that expensive..Cheers...Ziga
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...
I quite close to Romford, so could drop it off and collect.http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...
Hi mate...Normally you fill the reservoir to the cold mark and run the engine..Then turn the steering to full lock left and hold it there for a few seconds, Then do the same to the right hand lock..Check and fill to cold mark..Repeat until the level has settled...Oh and replace the cap each time as PAS fluid IS highly flammable.....Ziga
There was something i meant to say about bumping the steering wheel..Its once you get to full lock left and right, There is a point where you can hear the pump making a louder buzzing noise, The steering wheel will want to return an inch or so in the opposite lock but you need to kinda bounce it to full lock for a couple of seconds at a time..If that makes sense..I found a good example on the Chim forum.
Start Engine:
Car on wheels.. turn steering lock to lock, then bump the steering wheel (quiet hard) on to the full lock positions (left and right) do this a few times quickly, but for no more than 10 seconds as these positions are at full pressure on the PAS pump and rack. The PAS fluid will heat up quickly due to this high pressure in these postions, and you do not want to cook the PAS oil.
Stop Engine:
Next step...
If you look at the PAS fluid reservoir and see tiny air bubbles stop!
Deep breath.... go for a cuppa and come back after ten or so minutes and check for air bubbles, if they have gone, then repeat above full lock bumps. then check for air again. If air bubbles are still visible - go for lunch and come back in an hour.
This should cure your problems. Also check for leaks around your hoses and connector between the rack and high/low pressure pipes.
One other comment... If your PAS pump starts making odd noises then it is likely that contamination has entered your PAS system and it will not be long before your pump expires - we are talking microns PAS systems are very sensitive.
Start Engine:
Car on wheels.. turn steering lock to lock, then bump the steering wheel (quiet hard) on to the full lock positions (left and right) do this a few times quickly, but for no more than 10 seconds as these positions are at full pressure on the PAS pump and rack. The PAS fluid will heat up quickly due to this high pressure in these postions, and you do not want to cook the PAS oil.
Stop Engine:
Next step...
If you look at the PAS fluid reservoir and see tiny air bubbles stop!
Deep breath.... go for a cuppa and come back after ten or so minutes and check for air bubbles, if they have gone, then repeat above full lock bumps. then check for air again. If air bubbles are still visible - go for lunch and come back in an hour.
This should cure your problems. Also check for leaks around your hoses and connector between the rack and high/low pressure pipes.
One other comment... If your PAS pump starts making odd noises then it is likely that contamination has entered your PAS system and it will not be long before your pump expires - we are talking microns PAS systems are very sensitive.
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