Running problems.
Discussion
Tasmin is running well generally, but have had an issue with the car fading and then stopping when it gets hottish in the engine bay. If I let it cool down for a while it is ok again.
Prior to it fading the petrol pump has spurts of running as though its not pumping fuel - it races. I have changed the pump.
I have also replaced the relays and since put back the originals. Their is a secondary small fuel filter ( renewed along with the main filter ) that sits up near the coil and gets warm, the coil gets hot.
Thinking of removing the secondary filter, but have temporarily pushed it away from the coil and will put some heat shield around it.
Was looking forward to go to the wedge meet but this problem would have made for a time consuming journey.
Any ideas?
Also, does anyone have any history on this car. Has been mucked about with a bit, but generally in good nik.
I am looking to do a restore of some sort in the near future.
Cheers,
In anticipation.
Prior to it fading the petrol pump has spurts of running as though its not pumping fuel - it races. I have changed the pump.
I have also replaced the relays and since put back the originals. Their is a secondary small fuel filter ( renewed along with the main filter ) that sits up near the coil and gets warm, the coil gets hot.
Thinking of removing the secondary filter, but have temporarily pushed it away from the coil and will put some heat shield around it.
Was looking forward to go to the wedge meet but this problem would have made for a time consuming journey.
Any ideas?
Also, does anyone have any history on this car. Has been mucked about with a bit, but generally in good nik.
I am looking to do a restore of some sort in the near future.
Cheers,
In anticipation.
Oh okay...Sounds like a vapour lock problem..You only really need one main bulkhead filter....This was mine just under the rubber cover of the sensor plate..Coils do get hot..Have you got a blue ballast wire or a resistor from the coil.
I had an issue with hot starting and it was the accumulator failing..An easy test is to clamp the feed from the accumulator to bulkhead filter and see if any fuel drips out of the breather pipe at the back...You can unplug the green plug on the metering head so that you can put the ignition on position 1 and run the fuel pump without cranking.
You can bypass the accumulator..If its failing it can hinder hot start as the fuel pressure falls away too quickly..Also if its not holding the fuel pressure there is a chance it can stall....Hope this helps...Ziga
I had an issue with hot starting and it was the accumulator failing..An easy test is to clamp the feed from the accumulator to bulkhead filter and see if any fuel drips out of the breather pipe at the back...You can unplug the green plug on the metering head so that you can put the ignition on position 1 and run the fuel pump without cranking.
You can bypass the accumulator..If its failing it can hinder hot start as the fuel pressure falls away too quickly..Also if its not holding the fuel pressure there is a chance it can stall....Hope this helps...Ziga
Normally - Zig is right. But sometimes people fit a pre-filter before the pump. Like some bright spark did on mine.
When that clogs, the pipe _to_ the pump collapses under vacuum, leading to the symptoms described.
Search the pipework between the swirl pot (baked bean tin) and the pump for a small filter.
When that clogs, the pipe _to_ the pump collapses under vacuum, leading to the symptoms described.
Search the pipework between the swirl pot (baked bean tin) and the pump for a small filter.
tom's dad said:
Tasmin is running well generally, but have had an issue with the car fading and then stopping when it gets hottish in the engine bay. If I let it cool down for a while it is ok again.
Prior to it fading the petrol pump has spurts of running as though its not pumping fuel - it races. I have changed the pump.
I have also replaced the relays and since put back the originals. Their is a secondary small fuel filter ( renewed along with the main filter ) that sits up near the coil and gets warm, the coil gets hot.
Thinking of removing the secondary filter, but have temporarily pushed it away from the coil and will put some heat shield around it.
Was looking forward to go to the wedge meet but this problem would have made for a time consuming journey.
Any ideas?
Also, does anyone have any history on this car. Has been mucked about with a bit, but generally in good nik.
I am looking to do a restore of some sort in the near future.
Cheers,
In anticipation.
Stopping when hot in the engine bay? Assuming this is a V8 then first fix should be ignition amp. For the relatively low cost, if the car is new to you then change the ign amp, coil, dizzy cap, rotor, plugs and HT leads unless you are convinced that condition is good and age is low (scatter gun! Run away!). BTW, don't get dragged into the "must buy bling HT leads", my last set of Bosch leads was about £8 on that ebay, but needed a bespoke king lead for another £5.Prior to it fading the petrol pump has spurts of running as though its not pumping fuel - it races. I have changed the pump.
I have also replaced the relays and since put back the originals. Their is a secondary small fuel filter ( renewed along with the main filter ) that sits up near the coil and gets warm, the coil gets hot.
Thinking of removing the secondary filter, but have temporarily pushed it away from the coil and will put some heat shield around it.
Was looking forward to go to the wedge meet but this problem would have made for a time consuming journey.
Any ideas?
Also, does anyone have any history on this car. Has been mucked about with a bit, but generally in good nik.
I am looking to do a restore of some sort in the near future.
Cheers,
In anticipation.
Both V8 and V6 can have coil or ignition amp problems - different systems (Lucas vs Ford) but same sorts of issues.
Check that ignition amp/ coil/ resistance wire and connectors aren't roasting hot, which could indicate a problem.
Are you sure it's temp related ? I had a surge problem which I discovered was a gummed up main fuel filter, traced by realising full throttle caused misfire after about 20 seconds.. cause not very obvious.
Also check all the electrical connections - if it's a 2.8, the warm up regulator causes mixture to be far too rich if no elec power to it, even when engine hot. Also idle valve will cause high idle speed if not powered.
Check that ignition amp/ coil/ resistance wire and connectors aren't roasting hot, which could indicate a problem.
Are you sure it's temp related ? I had a surge problem which I discovered was a gummed up main fuel filter, traced by realising full throttle caused misfire after about 20 seconds.. cause not very obvious.
Also check all the electrical connections - if it's a 2.8, the warm up regulator causes mixture to be far too rich if no elec power to it, even when engine hot. Also idle valve will cause high idle speed if not powered.
If it wants to stop after fixed amount of time it is more likely to be the coil, possibly running without the ballast in circuit. (Coil expecting 8V, getting 12+)
Often a clue can be the rev counter showing lower rpm than engine revs just prior to failure.
The ballast resister is the big blue wire that looks about 8 gauge.
Failure from a fuel problem is usually more random and often quite "jerky".
Coil/ignition failure - you just glide to an undignified stop while wishing your car was a less noticeable colour and design.
Often a clue can be the rev counter showing lower rpm than engine revs just prior to failure.
The ballast resister is the big blue wire that looks about 8 gauge.
Failure from a fuel problem is usually more random and often quite "jerky".
Coil/ignition failure - you just glide to an undignified stop while wishing your car was a less noticeable colour and design.
Sorry for being a bit thick, can you describe what you mean by fading. Also, the noise from your fuel pump - can you hear the pump all the time, when it races, does the noise get louder or are you saying the pump gets faster?
From your description it sounds more like the fuel pump is running dry or the pump has met with some air in the feed from the tanks. Quite possibly be an air leak dragging air into the fuel line from somewhere in one of the lines prior to the pump, it doesn't sound electrical if the fuel pump is struggling..
From your description it sounds more like the fuel pump is running dry or the pump has met with some air in the feed from the tanks. Quite possibly be an air leak dragging air into the fuel line from somewhere in one of the lines prior to the pump, it doesn't sound electrical if the fuel pump is struggling..
keatsie said:
From your description it sounds more like the fuel pump is running dry or the pump has met with some air in the feed from the tanks. Quite possibly be an air leak dragging air into the fuel line from somewhere in one of the lines prior to the pump, it doesn't sound electrical if the fuel pump is struggling..
Thanks for reminding me...When i first bought my 280i someone had made a right pigs ear of the fuel hoses from the tanks to the pump and there was a Tee off before the pump going back to the breather in between the tanks??? this caused cavitation to the pump and eventually burnt it out, This caused the car to do what you have described...The accumulator only effected it when it was turned off..Sorry for the confusion...It was a long and arduous journey with Delilah and with hindsight things would of been very different..In as much as i don't think she would of come home with me...Ziga Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff