Gearbox hard to shift
Discussion
Hello all and merry Xmas from a 40 degree day here in Adelaide South Australia. I have an issue, my wedge is becoming harder and harder to shift from one gear to another - even just to engage first off the line. Lots of grinding and not much fun in the hills. My questions is, could this be linkage bushes? its a 4 speed. Are the linkage bushes the same as a TR7? Is there a better shifter that can fit in this car (potentially with a shorter throw)?
Many thanks
Peter
Many thanks
Peter
Generic/basic for any manual gbox ...
If it grinds when trying to engage reverse or first, then gbox input shaft is turning, when it should not be.
Causes -
The clutch is not releasing properly - most likely
Spigot bush is [partially] siezed - less likely unless car has been stood a long time.
Clutch not releasing - this means there is lost movement somewhere.
Is there smooth resistance on the pedal ? can you pull the pedal up a lot ?
If it's a cable clutch wedge (UK built and imported to Oz) then check all the mechanism for loose connections etc.
make sure cable is OK.
If it's a hydraulic clutch, then could be master or slave cylinder are worn (although they tend to leak, they don't always)
Get someone to work the clutch pedal and look at the lever on the gearbox bellhousing which operates the clutch, and make sure it moves smoothly, and moves at least er...50mm ? something of that order, varies a bit by vehicle.
Is lever loose when no clutch pedal pressure ? It should have only a small amount of free play (a few mm)
After these checks, it's probably something broken inside clutch system, or spigot is siezed, both of which are a gearbox off job, unfortunately.
Can't think of anything else.....
If it grinds when trying to engage reverse or first, then gbox input shaft is turning, when it should not be.
Causes -
The clutch is not releasing properly - most likely
Spigot bush is [partially] siezed - less likely unless car has been stood a long time.
Clutch not releasing - this means there is lost movement somewhere.
Is there smooth resistance on the pedal ? can you pull the pedal up a lot ?
If it's a cable clutch wedge (UK built and imported to Oz) then check all the mechanism for loose connections etc.
make sure cable is OK.
If it's a hydraulic clutch, then could be master or slave cylinder are worn (although they tend to leak, they don't always)
Get someone to work the clutch pedal and look at the lever on the gearbox bellhousing which operates the clutch, and make sure it moves smoothly, and moves at least er...50mm ? something of that order, varies a bit by vehicle.
Is lever loose when no clutch pedal pressure ? It should have only a small amount of free play (a few mm)
After these checks, it's probably something broken inside clutch system, or spigot is siezed, both of which are a gearbox off job, unfortunately.
Can't think of anything else.....
The hydraulic system is self adjusting but if the clutch is too worn it may not be able to adjust enough for the clutch to release. Also another possible problem I have seen is a broken bolt or a cracked cover on the pressure plate. Either will cause the pressure plate to flex and not release properly.
Bill
Bill
Thanks all.. Its been sitting for a few months so maybe it just needs a good run.. I will check the items suggested.. Yeah, its a 280i (but converted to carbi).. One thing to note, I have put iridium plugs in it with massive impact.. I cant believe the difference.. but obviously nothing to do with the sticking issue..
Thanks again, I will have a peep on the weekend.. but to summarise, yes, hard to get in reverse, hard to change gears..
I am assuming clutch will be a major job..
Pete
Thanks again, I will have a peep on the weekend.. but to summarise, yes, hard to get in reverse, hard to change gears..
I am assuming clutch will be a major job..Pete
If it's a hydraulic clutch, then could be master or slave cylinder are worn (although they tend to leak, they don't always)
Looks like this might be the issue.. no fluid in the clutch cylinder.. maybe a leak?? Do I need to bleed it now?? bloody hell!! how stupid do I feel for not checking..
Looks like this might be the issue.. no fluid in the clutch cylinder.. maybe a leak?? Do I need to bleed it now?? bloody hell!! how stupid do I feel for not checking..
maximuss said:
I am assuming clutch will be a major job..maximuss said:
Thanks Zig... I agree, everything about this car would be easier if I was in the UK... I am tempted to remove the engine and put a modern v6 in it, but then again - maybe I should just buy a car that's a little easier to find parts for 
Funny that - I'm in exactly the same place....do I keep it original, or do I go for a more modern, unleaded engine....I'm tempted by the 3800 Commodore lump, and its T5 gbox.....although it's not all that modern, it's CHEAP !!
Parts aren't all that hard here in NZ, the problem is more knowing where the bits came from in the first place, and this forum is the best place to find out.
Many bits at front end are Cortina (Euro one, not Oz one) diff and rear brakes are Jag, etc etc. Just ask and we'll help as much as poss !!
With hydraulic clutches, I always found it hard to get all the bubbles bled out, I found that working pedal slowly up and down, and hold down for a while longer, often helps to flush the bubbles back up. Of course if your seals are knackered, it probably won't work very well.....
maximuss said:
I am tempted to remove the engine and put a modern v6 in it, but then again - maybe I should just buy a car that's a little easier to find parts for
RCK974X said:
Funny that - I'm in exactly the same place....do I keep it original, or do I go for a more modern, unleaded engine....
I'm tempted by the 3800 Commodore lump, and its T5 gbox.....although it's not all that modern, it's CHEAP !!
Well chaps...I would say...DO IT! ...I wish i hadn't faffed around trying to supercharge the Cologne and gone for something like a modern V6 3.7ltr Mustang engine..Or a BMW or even Merc...After all these cars are a kit car and had donor engines so it would still be in keeping with the TVR tradition...At some point the original engines will be replaced as parts become even more scarce..What would you prefer..I'm tempted by the 3800 Commodore lump, and its T5 gbox.....although it's not all that modern, it's CHEAP !!
1. A constant headache
2. A massive smile...
Life is too short to worry about.."Oh its not original"..Who gives a flying f
k!..If i had the choice of either a 280i with an original engine or a 280i with a V8 transplant i know which one i would go for...Simples...So stop mumbling and stumbling and just..DO IT!
Happy new year...Ziga
The only problem with modifying, is that it will loose it's originality. This would undoubtedly upset some TVR connoisseurs and effect the value of the car in the future. It would of course make life a lot easier for now, until the modified parts too becomes hard to find in time. With the modifications, the car may not sound the same, handle the same, or even look the same. However, it's your, car and you must do what pleases you. If you are happy with the modification then that's what counts. Any future buyer can give it a rebuild and make it into what makes them happy. Talking about happy, Happy New Year to all.
Tony. TCB.
Tony. TCB.
The debate about whether to stay original or not is one of those things that can never be resolved. There are some strong believers on both sides, and that's fair enough.
It's YOUR car, so your choice. That's my opinion, anyway.
Engines....
Firstly, if you have an earlier wedge, like mine (1982), then chassis is narrower at rear of engine, whereas after the V8 versions were produced, it looks like ALL chassis were made capable of Rover V8 fit. This isn't actually proved beyond doubt, but looks to be true from discussions in this forum.
So.....
If you have a later wedge, any of the smaller V8 engines (e.g 302) should fit, but exhaust manifolds and sumps may have to be special etc. 3800 should fit, may need a rear sump, which can be found from specialists. VN,VP (etc) Commodores came with a T5 manual box, which is a good strong box. The 3800 is a V6 version of the original Buick V8, which is also where the Rover V8 came from, so 3800 should go in where a Rover V8 goes.
If you have an earlier wedge, then I'm not sure if the 3800 will go in, as 2.8 is a 60 degree V6, but 3800 is a 90 degree so is a lot wider - I've measured mine a few times, and it's very hard to decide....
For mine, I've also thought about a Nissan L6 3.0 (Skylines, Commodore VL) BMW 2.8 or 3.5 (see thread here for photos)
and the Falcon 4.0, but it's a very long engine....but again cheap and can be found with T5 manual box....
Also aware of a lot more (Ford duratec from Mondeo, Jag, Mitsi V6, etc) but many are now FWD, so gearbox is an issue..
...One day, I'll make my mind up.
It's YOUR car, so your choice. That's my opinion, anyway.
Engines....
Firstly, if you have an earlier wedge, like mine (1982), then chassis is narrower at rear of engine, whereas after the V8 versions were produced, it looks like ALL chassis were made capable of Rover V8 fit. This isn't actually proved beyond doubt, but looks to be true from discussions in this forum.
So.....
If you have a later wedge, any of the smaller V8 engines (e.g 302) should fit, but exhaust manifolds and sumps may have to be special etc. 3800 should fit, may need a rear sump, which can be found from specialists. VN,VP (etc) Commodores came with a T5 manual box, which is a good strong box. The 3800 is a V6 version of the original Buick V8, which is also where the Rover V8 came from, so 3800 should go in where a Rover V8 goes.
If you have an earlier wedge, then I'm not sure if the 3800 will go in, as 2.8 is a 60 degree V6, but 3800 is a 90 degree so is a lot wider - I've measured mine a few times, and it's very hard to decide....
For mine, I've also thought about a Nissan L6 3.0 (Skylines, Commodore VL) BMW 2.8 or 3.5 (see thread here for photos)
and the Falcon 4.0, but it's a very long engine....but again cheap and can be found with T5 manual box....
Also aware of a lot more (Ford duratec from Mondeo, Jag, Mitsi V6, etc) but many are now FWD, so gearbox is an issue..
...One day, I'll make my mind up.
Whats "Original"...I agree that some should stay unmolested as examples for future generations to appreciate but if we are talking in 20-30 years time then it would make the Wedge 40-60 years old and this would require very deep pockets as eventually they will not be driven because of the rarity of the parts, Everything would need to be refurbished/Rebuilt/Re-manufactured to keep it in running order which will cost a fortune and then the storing of such a vehicle becomes expensive so driving it becomes non-viable..So eventually they will become un-drivable and be used only by motor heritage museums as show resto's...
If they are too remain drivable then a replacement will need to be sourced..Originality for me is the concept around a particular design..
1. Engines & parts = Donor
2. Chassis design & Body styling = Originality
1 & 2 = Concept.
If TVR had needed to build everything without donor parts then i doubt if they had the money to even get to the Wedge stage...So using cheap broadly available parts it made their job a hell of a lot cheaper..Cost needed to be kept down so people could afford to buy them and TVR made money in sales rather than making losses in production.
These cars NEED to be driven and enjoyed to remind people who see them that Britain did once upon a time have the word GREAT in front of it..For me Wedges represent a time when there was a lot of foreign investment in England..We were at the pinnacle of our industrial production and export was higher than it had been in years...Early eighties was a glimmer of a bright and prosperous future for ALL of the people of England, There were unions to protect workers in manufacturing plants and resourceful energy deposits but at the same time the plug had been pulled..It felt to me at the time like you were climbing a ladder to safety as the abyss was lying below you...As fast as you could run up the ladder the faster the runs fell from under your feet...Bit like a sinking ship and 100 people rushing for a 30 seater lifeboat!...
The idea of a KIT CAR is a lightweight body and a big fk off engine....TVR's are a piece of true British character ..They are loud...They drink a lot...And they are unpredictable..If i were capable and had the facility to whip out my engine...Modify my chassis to accommodate a bigger engine and different gearbox then i wouldn't hesitate...I wanna hear a 6ltr V8 burble.. O yes.....You don't have to drive it like a maniac as no-one is gonna fk with you...Unless they are high revving time machines....
Happy New Wedge year....Ziga....
If they are too remain drivable then a replacement will need to be sourced..Originality for me is the concept around a particular design..
1. Engines & parts = Donor
2. Chassis design & Body styling = Originality
1 & 2 = Concept.
If TVR had needed to build everything without donor parts then i doubt if they had the money to even get to the Wedge stage...So using cheap broadly available parts it made their job a hell of a lot cheaper..Cost needed to be kept down so people could afford to buy them and TVR made money in sales rather than making losses in production.
These cars NEED to be driven and enjoyed to remind people who see them that Britain did once upon a time have the word GREAT in front of it..For me Wedges represent a time when there was a lot of foreign investment in England..We were at the pinnacle of our industrial production and export was higher than it had been in years...Early eighties was a glimmer of a bright and prosperous future for ALL of the people of England, There were unions to protect workers in manufacturing plants and resourceful energy deposits but at the same time the plug had been pulled..It felt to me at the time like you were climbing a ladder to safety as the abyss was lying below you...As fast as you could run up the ladder the faster the runs fell from under your feet...Bit like a sinking ship and 100 people rushing for a 30 seater lifeboat!...
The idea of a KIT CAR is a lightweight body and a big f
k off engine....TVR's are a piece of true British character ..They are loud...They drink a lot...And they are unpredictable..If i were capable and had the facility to whip out my engine...Modify my chassis to accommodate a bigger engine and different gearbox then i wouldn't hesitate...I wanna hear a 6ltr V8 burble.. O yes.....You don't have to drive it like a maniac as no-one is gonna fk with you...Unless they are high revving time machines....Happy New Wedge year....Ziga....
Zig,
I agree with much of that, and I am one of those who built their own kit cars. I later moved to TVR as that's what I consider them as - a manufactured kit car, also a classic make in its own right, just like Lotus. (To say something is a kit is definitely NOT a negative or a putdown to me - there were/are some fab kit designs around IMHO)
I disagree though that at the time the wedges were being made that UK still had a GREAT in it, I think GB was already in decline, sadly. Car-wise, we had the demise of BL, and awful cars like the Allegro, the Marina, and yes, the TR7. [We buggered off to NZ after GB joined EU which we both thought was an even worse mistake....]
Industry were being held to ransom by those unions, but the real damage was done because of intransigence, stupidity,
and arrogance on BOTH sides. It's a real shame when I look back on the 3 day week and stuff like that. Now, the world has totally changed, and the Chinese rule the manufacturing roost (Oh yes they do...but the cracks are appearing there too...)
It's amazing TVR managed to produce the wedges at all in that environment, but they did, and did it better than much bigger companies. I reckon the mistake was to try to make their own engines. Yes they were great, but so was the strain on the company. They could have gone BMW for engines, or GM or Ford (both Australia and US) for large capacity engines.... or even Japanese - don't scoff, there were some bloody good engines, as well as the crap. But hey, it's all water under the bridge now.
Anway, how about a Corvette LS1-7 ?? I think they go quite well....and they are fitted in Commodores out here in the anti-podes......
I agree with much of that, and I am one of those who built their own kit cars. I later moved to TVR as that's what I consider them as - a manufactured kit car, also a classic make in its own right, just like Lotus. (To say something is a kit is definitely NOT a negative or a putdown to me - there were/are some fab kit designs around IMHO)
I disagree though that at the time the wedges were being made that UK still had a GREAT in it, I think GB was already in decline, sadly. Car-wise, we had the demise of BL, and awful cars like the Allegro, the Marina, and yes, the TR7. [We buggered off to NZ after GB joined EU which we both thought was an even worse mistake....]
Industry were being held to ransom by those unions, but the real damage was done because of intransigence, stupidity,
and arrogance on BOTH sides. It's a real shame when I look back on the 3 day week and stuff like that. Now, the world has totally changed, and the Chinese rule the manufacturing roost (Oh yes they do...but the cracks are appearing there too...)
It's amazing TVR managed to produce the wedges at all in that environment, but they did, and did it better than much bigger companies. I reckon the mistake was to try to make their own engines. Yes they were great, but so was the strain on the company. They could have gone BMW for engines, or GM or Ford (both Australia and US) for large capacity engines.... or even Japanese - don't scoff, there were some bloody good engines, as well as the crap. But hey, it's all water under the bridge now.
Anway, how about a Corvette LS1-7 ?? I think they go quite well....and they are fitted in Commodores out here in the anti-podes......
Edited by RCK974X on Thursday 1st January 08:20
RCK974X said:
how about a Corvette LS1-7 ??
Yummy yummy LS anything please......Your'll have to excuse my ramblings..Drink does some weird things to you...Like blurring your memory..Now i think about it we were on the brink of a cold war..We still owed America millions of pounds for WW2 and Britain was infested with yuppies....Food mountains going to waste, The rich getting richer and the poor getting fked over....Arrggghhh 
....Ah well at least the cheesy chat up lines worked and you were guaranteed a shag...
....O happy days.....It was still nice to rock up to the local petrol station and get the question from the local teen attendant.. "What is that car, it sounds mad!!" That's a Tvr son.. Wow he says...
But a little embarrassing trying to leave the petrol station when the ignition was dead and needed a push start - I turned to my son in the passenger seat and said... That's a TVR son
Anyone have a view on the temp the car should run at? Hot Aussie summers are pushing the gauge up... Is there enough fresh air getting to that radiator??
Happy new year to all
Pete
But a little embarrassing trying to leave the petrol station when the ignition was dead and needed a push start
- I turned to my son in the passenger seat and said... That's a TVR son Anyone have a view on the temp the car should run at? Hot Aussie summers are pushing the gauge up... Is there enough fresh air getting to that radiator??
Happy new year to all
Pete
maximuss said:
Anyone have a view on the temp the car should run at? Hot Aussie summers are pushing the gauge up... Is there enough fresh air getting to that radiator??
Hi mate...I do recall the thermostat was recommended at 82 degrees for the Cologne...So your fans if you have electric fitted should open shortly after...TBH the radiator that TVR used was a Granada which was really insufficient for cooling the granny let alone a fibreglassed bonnet car with very little air movement under the bonnet....Personally i would have it re-cored with 3 cores as i believe the original was stepped and only 2 core...A good puller fan..(Engine side).. should aid cooling and providing some air around the engine..I used to think that the 280 had loads of air coming in from the front spoiler....Not so.
Mind you if you have the rad in the nosecone like the 350i then twin fans may be the way to go....Cheers...Ziga
My 2.8 is OK here in NZ on a 30 degree day, but NZ can't match those 40 deg. Oz days !!
After I found a small leak in my rad, I took it to the local repair place, and the guy told me half of it was blocked up. It didn't show up on the temp gauge when driving, but it did get hot quite quick when standing in traffic.
It stays cooler for longer when standing now it's been cleaned out.
So it's probably worth checking all the rad gets to same temp across the header tank, or even getting it checked and flushed.
Zig is right in that the rad is not really a 2.8 version, it came from a 2.3 Granada as far as I know, and it might be shortened a little from original, not sure. I remember from UK I did check out a 2.8 Granny rad, and header tanks were the same, but core was about 3-4 inches longer, so it won't go in the wedge.
If you're handy with cars, I did check that a Commodore VN rad (with ally core, plastic tanks and fan) fits. You would need to modify the wedge's rad mounts and find some hoses, trim the fan shroud a bit, but the rad itself physically fits in, and if it's up to the 3.8, it's probably a good mod for the hotter OZ days ??
Don't know if something like an Oz Cortina (the L6 donk) might fit as well ??
Just a thought anyway.
What carb(s) you got ?? The original Solex from the Granny ?
The Weber 38DGAS (3.0 Capri) runs nicely, done that on a kit car....
Oh, from original question, if you have a 4 speed box, it's from the 3 litre Capri/Granada, quite a strong box, if you have a 5 speeder, it's a type 9 from the 2.8i Capri, same as Sierras, more or less.
After I found a small leak in my rad, I took it to the local repair place, and the guy told me half of it was blocked up. It didn't show up on the temp gauge when driving, but it did get hot quite quick when standing in traffic.
It stays cooler for longer when standing now it's been cleaned out.
So it's probably worth checking all the rad gets to same temp across the header tank, or even getting it checked and flushed.
Zig is right in that the rad is not really a 2.8 version, it came from a 2.3 Granada as far as I know, and it might be shortened a little from original, not sure. I remember from UK I did check out a 2.8 Granny rad, and header tanks were the same, but core was about 3-4 inches longer, so it won't go in the wedge.
If you're handy with cars, I did check that a Commodore VN rad (with ally core, plastic tanks and fan) fits. You would need to modify the wedge's rad mounts and find some hoses, trim the fan shroud a bit, but the rad itself physically fits in, and if it's up to the 3.8, it's probably a good mod for the hotter OZ days ??
Don't know if something like an Oz Cortina (the L6 donk) might fit as well ??
Just a thought anyway.
What carb(s) you got ?? The original Solex from the Granny ?
The Weber 38DGAS (3.0 Capri) runs nicely, done that on a kit car....
Oh, from original question, if you have a 4 speed box, it's from the 3 litre Capri/Granada, quite a strong box, if you have a 5 speeder, it's a type 9 from the 2.8i Capri, same as Sierras, more or less.
Edited by RCK974X on Thursday 1st January 19:26
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