Exhaust manifold fouling starter solenoid
Exhaust manifold fouling starter solenoid
Author
Discussion

jack350

Original Poster:

124 posts

157 months

Sunday 18th January 2015
quotequote all
Ongoing problems with the stainless manifolds. Just had them back to JP to be realigned and the overall geometry now seems fine. Not touching the chassis which was the main problem.
However drivers side is fouling the starter solenoid, so much so you can get the manifold on without the starter but no way can you then fit the starter. In the past when I tride to make a slight indent into the manifold it seemed to alter the whole geometry. Is it possible the get a smaller starter/solenoid?
Phil

Number 7

4,113 posts

289 months

Sunday 18th January 2015
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I'd be inclined to get it back to JP if it doesn't fit properly. They must have made enough it get it right. The O/S does pass close to the starter, but shouldn't touch. Heat shielding is recommended.

mrzigazaga

18,807 posts

192 months

Sunday 18th January 2015
quotequote all
Number 7 said:
I'd be inclined to get it back to JP if it doesn't fit properly. They must have made enough it get it right. The O/S does pass close to the starter, but shouldn't touch. Heat shielding is recommended.
+1

Terence

175 posts

279 months

Sunday 18th January 2015
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The stainless manifolds on my last wedge ran so close to the solenoid live terminal that when it rained water would track down the exhaust manifold bridge the gap to the solenoid and slowly drain the battery. It was like that when I bought it. I shortened the solenoid terminal to cure the problem, but the header was still extremely close to the starter. I would agree with others if they are new get the manufacturer to sort the issue, providing that in the past someone has not changed the starter for a non original unit.

KKson

3,470 posts

152 months

Sunday 18th January 2015
quotequote all
i reckon there's 10 thou clearance between my manifold and starter solenoid connector. It's too close for comfort and certainly there's no room whatsoever for any insulation.

jack350

Original Poster:

124 posts

157 months

Sunday 18th January 2015
quotequote all
Trouble is I have had a lot of toing and froing (not with JP) in the past.If I was to replace the starter with a new smaller unit any reccomendations as what to go for?
Phil

matt-man

2,667 posts

246 months

Sunday 18th January 2015
quotequote all
My ones took a bit of adjustment with a hammer to make them fit...!

adam quantrill

11,671 posts

269 months

Sunday 18th January 2015
quotequote all
I just "adjusted" mine a little bit. Top tips:

- to mark it where it needs the dent - scrape it with a file or similar either side of the problem area,

- heat it with a blowlamp before whacking it, if you can get a dull red that's great but anything quite hot will make it easier and you'll put less stress on the metal.

jack350

Original Poster:

124 posts

157 months

Monday 19th January 2015
quotequote all
Thanks guys

uglymug

575 posts

262 months

Monday 19th January 2015
quotequote all
I had exactly the same probs with my 350i . wayy too close so i got one of those plumbers soldering mats and wired it to the manifold , right next to the motor , did a good job too . never had any trouble with starter after ......hope this helps .UG

adam quantrill

11,671 posts

269 months

Monday 19th January 2015
quotequote all
That's OK for stainless but if a mild steel one be careful - if the mat picks up moisture when the engine is off it can provoke corrosion. We tried exhaust wrap "back in the day" and the manifolds didn't half rust underneath!

rev-erend

21,619 posts

311 months

Monday 19th January 2015
quotequote all
You should try a 4 into one manifold .. twice as many pipes and even more problems with the starter motor. Don't think mine will come out unless I remove the heads and all sorts.

Also after running the car up to temperature yesterday I really must measure the temp of the starter motor and decide whether to put protective lagging on it or not .. the cable across to the starter looked to be getting very warm too.. despite the zirocotec coating on the manifolds.

matt-man

2,667 posts

246 months

Monday 19th January 2015
quotequote all
rev-erend said:
You should try a 4 into one manifold .. twice as many pipes and even more problems with the starter motor. Don't think mine will come out unless I remove the heads and all sorts.

Also after running the car up to temperature yesterday I really must measure the temp of the starter motor and decide whether to put protective lagging on it or not .. the cable across to the starter looked to be getting very warm too.. despite the zirocotec coating on the manifolds.
hey Rev! It runs?! Lets see a vid...would be great to see that!

rev-erend

21,619 posts

311 months

Monday 19th January 2015
quotequote all
Hi Matt

First video of it running last week: The camera makes it sound worse that it is .. just listen for the pops and bangs on the overrun.

http://youtu.be/7HiDrrRt-cs

Sounded a bit better this week as we tweeked the map a bit.

matt-man

2,667 posts

246 months

Monday 19th January 2015
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Wow!! Noisy stuff!!

When are you planning to get it back on the road??

rev-erend

21,619 posts

311 months

Monday 19th January 2015
quotequote all
Jus soon as all the tasks are done.

adam quantrill

11,671 posts

269 months

Monday 19th January 2015
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GREAT! You were jumping about filming it like you were a little bit scared though.... ;^)

Engineer1949

1,423 posts

171 months

Friday 23rd January 2015
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Rather than distorting your manifolds take the starter out and file the fixing holes into a slot obviously to turn the starter slightly anticlock to move the solenoid towards the block and away from the manifold dosent need to be to much but make a big difference in clearance.


John

adam quantrill

11,671 posts

269 months

Friday 23rd January 2015
quotequote all
Good idea - or you can get a prestolite starter, much smaller, so more clearance. They turn over the engine quicker too.