geo set up

[matt-man]

Hey guys.

Ever since the rebuild my car hasn't quite been right so I'm going to have it set up properly.

What's the recommended set up details?

[Wedg1e]

matt-man said:

What's the recommended set up details?

1. All 4 wheels should be on the car

2. All 4 wheels should touch the ground

3. All 4 wheels should point in the same direction, or thereabouts, preferably perpendicular to the ground and parallel to the chassis

4. It is not necessary for tyres to be fitted but if they are, they should be approximately the right size for the wheels. The phatter the wheels are, the better. Spinners (if fitted) should be spun up to max. rpm with a cordless drill, Dremel or similar.

5. If the wheels are out of balance, this should be corrected before starting. Fishing weights are ideal for adjusting balance and can be attached with superglue, chewing-gum or No More Nails according to whether the wheels are spoked or blinging.

6. Tools are useful for altering suspension settings. If you have a mate who is a tool, let him do the work while you sit in the driver's seat and rub one out to the underwear section of a spare Grattan's catalogue. If you are Rolf Harris, this starts just after childrens' coats.

7. Loosen everything to begin with. Belt, tie, cuffs, shoe-laces. In the event of stiff nuts, spray them with WD40, just have a plausible explanation ready for the wife when she does the laundry.

8. If you have a big hammer, have a friend hide it before you start, that way you won't be tempted to throw it through the windscreen when it doesn't go according to plan.

9. Use a length of string and a straight piece of wood. What for I'm not sure, but all the internet suspension guides mention it.

10. A mirror on a stick is useful for seeing under the car, especially if you're like most middle-aged men who can't tie their laces without sitting down. If you also need reading glasses, you're fked. Sell the car and buy a Nissan Micra.

11. Remember that nuts on the left will have right-hand threads and bolts on the right will be left-handed... unless the car is left-hand drive in which case everything is anti-clockwise, cuddy-wifted or widdershins, depending on when the car was built.

12. Begin by pointing the car in the direction you want it to go. If you point it in a different direction you are only making things difficult for yourself.

13. Take the steering lock off. I know it's a small point but it restricts steering adjustment.

14. Once the car is running true (stays in a straight line when driven hands-off at 120mph+ on a motorway in thick fog), make sure all nuts, bolts, wangleflanges and sprommets are fully-tight, then give them an extra turn for good measure. Any stripped threads can be repaired with hemp and Plumbers Mait.

I think that covers it, other contributors might like to chip in with anything I've missed...

[mrzigazaga]

Hi Matt..


I still have this info if its any good.....Ziga

Here are the generic settings for all Wedges:

The tracking should be set at 3.2mm toe-in +/- 1.5mm

Caster: 3.5 - 4.0 deg. pos.
Camber (F) 1.0 deg. neg.
Camber (R) 1.0 - 1.5 deg. neg.
Toe (in) (F) 0.50 deg.
Toe (in) (R) 2MM - don't know why MM not deg!

2mm on 15inch rims = 0.30 degrees = 18 minutes
2mm on 17inch rims = 0.27 degrees = 16 minutes
Either way it's just a smidge toe in.

15 inch rims 3.2mm toe gives 0.24 degrees wheel to vehicle center-line or 0.48 degrees wheel to wheel.

14 inch rims 3.2mm toe gives 0.26 degrees wheel to vehicle center-line or 0.52 degrees wheel to wheel.

For the front
toe is 3.2 +/- 1.5mm
camber is 0 +/- 1.2 degres (not adjustable anyway is it?)
caster is 31.2 +/- 0.5 degrees
KPI 6 degrees
For the rear
toe is 4.5mm
camber is 0.5 +/- 0.5 degrees (this seems small as the wheels have a visible camber)

[matt-man]

Thanks Wedgie...some interesting points to consider there..

Cheers mark-ill give that to the chaps and hopefully they will transform the tramliner I currently have!

[mrzigazaga]

matt-man said:

Thanks Wedgie...some interesting points to consider there..

Cheers mark-ill give that to the chaps and hopefully they will transform the tramliner I currently have!

Tram-linning is also caused by low profile tyres...
Actually i need mine done as well as the steering wheel is slightly off-set ....

[beacon]

matt-man said:

Thanks Wedgie...some interesting points to consider there..

Cheers mark-ill give that to the chaps and hopefully they will transform the tramliner I currently have!

This is interesting Matt, follows on from our discussion about alignment and the Tub not being square and the ability to push/pull the chassis out due to it being so flexible.

I am interested to see what the outcome of this will be.

Hope it has a major positive impact, you went to all that trouble and if the ride does not match, that must be a little disappointing.

Al

[matt-man]

Im pretty sure it is because all of the rear section is not set up right.

It used to handle really well but its not ehat it was.. I will keep you all posted but fingers crossed!

Flew through the mot so just this to go.

Going to put a new set of boots on too as t the old ones are about 4 years old so going hard. Been impressed with falkens but going to see what options there are..

[matt-man]

So....its all be done as per zigs details posted and it drives beautifully! Finally I can really enjoy all the new polybushes and joints on the car and its amazing.

Drove it back tonight and on a nice open straight I gave it the minerals past my mate (who drove me to get it) and he text me when I got home and said I gave a nice big flame on gear change as I went past! Love that car !!

Happy as a piggy in the brown stuff

[mrzigazaga]

...Enjoy