Discussion
Hopefully someone has been here before me.
I think the gearchange on my 2.8 +2 is too slack and imprecise. I was expecting a tight clean change from a ford gearbox, but there is about 6 inches lateral movement between 2nd and 3rd. Reverse is even more guesswork. Assuming that the TVR isn't much different to the original I removed the transmission tunnel trim and attempted to undo the gearlever. I undid the 3 bolts holding it to the box and tried to pull it up, but it hardly moved.
Am I right in assuming the gearchange is wrong and if so, what am I should I be doing to allow me to remove the gearlever. I'm hoping to remove the lever and find a convenient nut that needs tightening to restore the change quality.
I appreciate any clues
Todd
I think the gearchange on my 2.8 +2 is too slack and imprecise. I was expecting a tight clean change from a ford gearbox, but there is about 6 inches lateral movement between 2nd and 3rd. Reverse is even more guesswork. Assuming that the TVR isn't much different to the original I removed the transmission tunnel trim and attempted to undo the gearlever. I undid the 3 bolts holding it to the box and tried to pull it up, but it hardly moved.
Am I right in assuming the gearchange is wrong and if so, what am I should I be doing to allow me to remove the gearlever. I'm hoping to remove the lever and find a convenient nut that needs tightening to restore the change quality.
I appreciate any clues
Todd
Well, I've def been there before (with my +2).....and improved it a bit, but not as good as you might hope for. I swapped the gearstick for a new one as the nylon bushing on it had disintegrated. This removed a good deal of the slop, but I think that something is prob worn inside. Not investigated that further, but may well swap the box soon (ish) anyway.
Is it the 4speed I assume? If so, you'll find a half sphere shaped object round the bottom of the gearstick on top of the box. This bit unscrews, you may need to belt it with a hammer and screwdriver to start it turning.
Is it the 4speed I assume? If so, you'll find a half sphere shaped object round the bottom of the gearstick on top of the box. This bit unscrews, you may need to belt it with a hammer and screwdriver to start it turning.
Thanks for the quick response. Yes it is a 4 speed, although with the amount of slop I initially wasn't convinced there wasn't another ratio hiding in there.
Where did you get the parts? Although the bottom end is Ford is the nylon bushing replaceable, if not is the gearlever a Ford or TVR part?
I did try and find a 5th on mine too for a while, never did 
I struck lucky with someone on here who happened to have a spare Capri one (thankyou, you know who you are
)
The original one is a modified version of any old 4speed Capri/Granada/Sierra(?) one of that era. You'll see a 2inch horizontal bit of steel welded on to your original. Though I just used it as a straight swap over for mine and it works just fine.
cheers
Dave
I struck lucky with someone on here who happened to have a spare Capri one (thankyou, you know who you are
) The original one is a modified version of any old 4speed Capri/Granada/Sierra(?) one of that era. You'll see a 2inch horizontal bit of steel welded on to your original. Though I just used it as a straight swap over for mine and it works just fine.
cheers
Dave
I obtained a 4 speed gearstick from 'Tickover'in Bexley Heath. 020 8298 1994. Assuming they are still trading of course. I have a nagging feeling that as well as a ball joint (which was missing on mine) there is a bush where the gearstick joins the gear selct lever. I obtained one of those from the Factory back in the days when you could order stuff direct from Mike Williams. If you still havent removed the stick and it would be any help I have a couple of pics of the gearstick bits. EMail me from my profile if you want me to send them.
That nylon half sphere bush near the base of the gearlever is as rare as rocking horse s**t.Tickover can't get them any more,I also tried every Capri spares dealer in Classic Ford magazine with no joy.I eventually bought a complete gearlever on eBay with a good bush on it.If you want any measurements from it let me know.
Mark 3000M
Mark 3000M
niva441 said:
Mark 3000M you mentioned the measurements from the nylon half sphere, they would be really helpful as I can see me having to make one up myself.
I'm sure the dogs won't mind sacrificing one of their balls for the car.
You can't make that sort of comment on here and expect to get away with it
The nylon hemisphere was used on several (older?) Ford gearboxes, so it might be worth investigating other boxes too, which should be more plentiful, and may yield the same part.
I remember how careful you had to be not to cross-thread the sphere, or you'd a hell of a job to get the thing to stay on, and may have the gearstick come off in your hand at some critical moment !
>> Edited by grahamw48 on Friday 21st January 23:19
I remember how careful you had to be not to cross-thread the sphere, or you'd a hell of a job to get the thing to stay on, and may have the gearstick come off in your hand at some critical moment !
>> Edited by grahamw48 on Friday 21st January 23:19
Thanks for all your help guys, it's been invaluable. At least I know what the problem is now. Solving it however may require some luck / creativity.
Possibly a upgrade to 5 speed beckons.
I now know far more than after seeing the local TVR 'specialist' who just said it was something internal. Perhaps they're not really Wedge friendly.
Possibly a upgrade to 5 speed beckons.
I now know far more than after seeing the local TVR 'specialist' who just said it was something internal. Perhaps they're not really Wedge friendly.
I haven't torn into it yet but I rather suddenly developed 3/4" of up-down play in the shifter and 2 new detents beyond 3-4 as if I had 5th & 6th. Assuming I haven't gained two more gears, is this a symptom of a bad nylon part as discussed above? I don't think it's a problem in the box as it behaves with no noise but in the linkage. Thanks Grady
Funny old thing.... thought mine was a 5 speed box too.....
until realised that it was really slack as a yak and only a 4 speed... 
. However, I have just met up with Richard Moore(very nice chap 
)from 'Moore Racing' fame who told me that the TAZ racers have had similar problems and have now replaced the half-sphere unit with a steel one .... looks great to me!!!! Might be worthwhile giving them a ring... However, on the subject of 5 speed boxes ... has anyone fitted one as a replacement for a 4 speed box and are there any adjustments that need to be made??? reduced propshaft length, rebalancing etc. 
until realised that it was really slack as a yak and only a 4 speed... . However, I have just met up with Richard Moore(very nice chap )from 'Moore Racing' fame who told me that the TAZ racers have had similar problems and have now replaced the half-sphere unit with a steel one .... looks great to me!!!! Might be worthwhile giving them a ring... However, on the subject of 5 speed boxes ... has anyone fitted one as a replacement for a 4 speed box and are there any adjustments that need to be made??? reduced propshaft length, rebalancing etc. It's been discussed somewhere on here (can be done with only minor adjustments).
I'm planning to replace the engine AND box on mine, but need to find a good 24 valve, or an old Turbotechnics kit first.
It's not something you want to be putting in and out too often. (said the actress to the bishop )
I'm planning to replace the engine AND box on mine, but need to find a good 24 valve, or an old Turbotechnics kit first.
It's not something you want to be putting in and out too often. (said the actress to the bishop
) The tranmission is finally warm enough to work on. I did some dismantaling to see what could have caused these problems. Iam not sure that everyone has experienced the same failure. My transmission had 50,000 miles and would say had average use. The nylon ball at the base to the shift lever ( this acts as the piviot point ) did have a few nicks taken out of it but was OK. Todd this is excessable by un-threading the 1/2 round cover that the shift lever comes through; well above the 3- 13mm bolts you removed. Once the lever assembly is removed (including the nylon ball and spring) look down into the transmission with a good light. There is another nylon bushing that the ball on the BOTTOM of the shift lever fits into. The bushing is made of the same materal as the ball and should be visable. Mine was not in the bore it's intended to be. I had to hold lever in reverse gear to keep it engaged. This gave the shift lever 2" of travel in all directions before the shift forks started to move. I would also suggest removing the shift lever carefully to prevent pulling this lower nylon bushing out of the bore in the shift fork arm. I tried to include a picture but couldn't. I did post one at: http://community.webshots.com/user/302wedge
Let me know if this bring up any other questions.
Grady, I will save all my parts for you. Just let me know what you need.
Allan
Let me know if this bring up any other questions.
Grady, I will save all my parts for you. Just let me know what you need.
Allan
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