1987 era fusebox layout
1987 era fusebox layout
Author
Discussion

Wedg1e

Original Poster:

27,011 posts

288 months

Tuesday 12th May 2015
quotequote all
Here's the fuse layout diagram from my glovebox lid in case anyone's missing their's... smile



Must work out a way to refit the damn lid; it fell open a few years ago, ripping the hinge screws out and I can't find any longer ones that are still small enough to fit the hinges and allow the lid to close.
Worked out quite well as I just happened to bump into a bloke who'd bought a new pen and wanted to try it out... whistle


ElvisWedgely

2,715 posts

188 months

Tuesday 12th May 2015
quotequote all
Wedg1e said:
Must work out a way to refit the damn lid; it fell open a few years ago, ripping the hinge screws out and I can't find any longer ones that are still small enough to fit the hinges and allow the lid to close.
Dip match sticks into wood glue and stuff them into existing enlarged holes to pack them up. Once dry sand them down flat. Now you can use the existing small screws and the job should be well secure, only this time make sure you fit an opening strap to limit the draw opening to stop ripping out the screws should it ever fling open again.

Tony. TCB.

mrzigazaga

18,762 posts

188 months

Tuesday 12th May 2015
quotequote all
Wedg1e said:
Just happened to bump into a bloke at the fest who'd bought a new pen and wanted to try it out... whistle

Ya jammy git...hehe

Still i managed to get a pic with him patting Delilah on the head..biggrin

Wedg1e

Original Poster:

27,011 posts

288 months

Tuesday 12th May 2015
quotequote all
ElvisWedgely said:
Dip match sticks into wood glue and stuff them into existing enlarged holes to pack them up. Once dry sand them down flat. Now you can use the existing small screws and the job should be well secure, only this time make sure you fit an opening strap to limit the draw opening to stop ripping out the screws should it ever fling open again.

Tony. TCB.
Aye, I'd already tried Plastic Wood or a similar filler but although the screws were secure when fitted, the weight of the lid just ripped them back out.
As to the strap, I hate drilling holes in the trim biggrin
I suspect the lid wasn't latched properly as it was the only time it's ever dropped open.

mrzigazaga

18,762 posts

188 months

Tuesday 12th May 2015
quotequote all
Whoops i forgot to add...You could drop a drip of superglue in the hole and fix the little hinge back in place..From then on if you remove the glovebox lid then only remove the screws on the lid side..Or a tiny drop of fibreglass resin but its hardly worth mixing it for just that so superglue might work...It worked on Delilah...Ziga

Oh and i don't think wood filler would work on fibreglass...If you can cement the hole with resin and re-drill when set..Polyester resin like U-Pol might be better than filler but personally i would use resin.

Edited by mrzigazaga on Tuesday 12th May 19:13

Wedg1e

Original Poster:

27,011 posts

288 months

Tuesday 12th May 2015
quotequote all
mrzigazaga said:
Oh and i don't think wood filler would work on fibreglass...If you can cement the hole with resin and re-drill when set..Polyester resin like U-Pol might be better than filler but personally i would use resin.
Fibreglass? I think the lid is plywood! biggrin The dash has two blocks of wood glassed-in for the hinge screws to bite into but the lid screws just go into the edge of the ply, which is a particularly sh!tty way to secure anything...

adam quantrill

11,627 posts

265 months

Tuesday 12th May 2015
quotequote all
What size are the screws? Diameter of the head, length, diameter of the shank? Presumably countersunk to fit inside the hinge?

I have a selection of small brass woodscrews and may have some suitable.

mrzigazaga

18,762 posts

188 months

Tuesday 12th May 2015
quotequote all
Wedg1e said:
Fibreglass? I think the lid is plywood! biggrin The dash has two blocks of wood glassed-in for the hinge screws to bite into but the lid screws just go into the edge of the ply, which is a particularly sh!tty way to secure anything...
Oh yeah...Derrr....Slightly longer screw then..Maybe...

Grady

1,230 posts

283 months

Wednesday 13th May 2015
quotequote all
KISS - tooth picks or bits of wood chop sticks. Anything that the screw will bite on. Grady

adam quantrill

11,627 posts

265 months

Wednesday 13th May 2015
quotequote all
Yeah plastic wood is no good for this sort of repair, it isn't really that strong. As the King says, use wood glue in the hole, fill it up, then stuff in toothpicks (hardwood) or matchsticks (softwood). Then let it go off for 48 hours - the airing cupboard is a good place to aid curing. Wood glue + wood will be stronger than the original ply.

mrzigazaga

18,762 posts

188 months

Wednesday 13th May 2015
quotequote all
Also send me the glove box lid and i will re-cover it for you...whistle

ElvisWedgely

2,715 posts

188 months

Wednesday 13th May 2015
quotequote all
I think I know what's happened. Wedg1e ripped off the cover on purpose, framed it with the signature on, and is now hanging on his bedroom wall. He doesn't want to put it back, and here we are all advising him on different ways to tackle the job. I thought it was a bit odd for a man who rebuilds engines not to be able to put a few small screws into a wooden pannel biggrin

Tony. TCB.

mrzigazaga

18,762 posts

188 months

Wednesday 13th May 2015
quotequote all
ElvisWedgely said:
I think I know what's happened. Wedg1e ripped off the cover on purpose, framed it with the signature on, and is now hanging on his bedroom wall. He doesn't want to put it back, and here we are all advising him on different ways to tackle the job. I thought it was a bit odd for a man who rebuilds engines not to be able to put a few small screws into a wooden pannel biggrin

Tony. TCB.
I think you are right mate...I think he is just rubbing it in..biggrin

Wedg1e

Original Poster:

27,011 posts

288 months

Wednesday 13th May 2015
quotequote all
adam quantrill said:
Yeah plastic wood is no good for this sort of repair, it isn't really that strong. As the King says, use wood glue in the hole, fill it up, then stuff in toothpicks (hardwood) or matchsticks (softwood). Then let it go off for 48 hours - the airing cupboard is a good place to aid curing. Wood glue + wood will be stronger than the original ply.
Airing cupboard? Do you live in the 1950s? biggrin
My pad is so small it doesn't have room for a bloody glovebox irked - and if it did the lid would fall off whistle

Wedg1e

Original Poster:

27,011 posts

288 months

Wednesday 13th May 2015
quotequote all
ElvisWedgely said:
I think I know what's happened. Wedg1e ripped off the cover on purpose, framed it with the signature on, and is now hanging on his bedroom wall. He doesn't want to put it back, and here we are all advising him on different ways to tackle the job. I thought it was a bit odd for a man who rebuilds engines not to be able to put a few small screws into a wooden pannel biggrin

Tony. TCB.
Hey, it's taken me five years to get round to hanging some doors I bought, I don't have time to fanny on putting picture hooks up as well!

adam quantrill

11,627 posts

265 months

Wednesday 13th May 2015
quotequote all
Wedg1e said:
Airing cupboard? Do you live in the 1950s? biggrin
My pad is so small it doesn't have room for a bloody glovebox irked - and if it did the lid would fall off whistle
Nothing quite so modern Ian! The house was built in c1700 and my latest project has been re-rendering the gable end in traditional lime render on laths. (Hopefully not to off-topic...)

Wedg1e

Original Poster:

27,011 posts

288 months

Wednesday 13th May 2015
quotequote all
adam quantrill said:
lime render on laths
Isn't that how Chimaeras were trimmed? biggrin