Not So Great Drive Out....
Discussion
Took the SEAC out for a spin as the weather was nice, and it all started so well... 
Then suddenly after 20 miles or so..lots of pops, bangs, back fires..and I coast to a halt. Engine turned over but would not fire, it seemed like a fuel issue, but I couldn't see anything obvious. So..called the RAC.
Seems there was 12v to the coil, but nothing to the distributor. Checked the king lead & HT leads, they were fine, so suspected the coil or electronic control part next to the coil?
Anyway, couldn't get it going so.....oh the indignity.
It was recovered back to Bespoke Performance.
Turns out it was the air flow meter, the small switch which opens and shuts..operating the fuel pump had (we think) corroded slightly and needed cleaning with some fine emery cloth and contact cleaner.
It seemed to work, and all seems well, but I still feel a little wary. How serviceable are the flapper AFMs, if it needs replacing..where could I get one?
Then suddenly after 20 miles or so..lots of pops, bangs, back fires..and I coast to a halt. Engine turned over but would not fire, it seemed like a fuel issue, but I couldn't see anything obvious. So..called the RAC.
Seems there was 12v to the coil, but nothing to the distributor. Checked the king lead & HT leads, they were fine, so suspected the coil or electronic control part next to the coil?
Anyway, couldn't get it going so.....oh the indignity.
It was recovered back to Bespoke Performance. Turns out it was the air flow meter, the small switch which opens and shuts..operating the fuel pump had (we think) corroded slightly and needed cleaning with some fine emery cloth and contact cleaner.
It seemed to work, and all seems well, but I still feel a little wary. How serviceable are the flapper AFMs, if it needs replacing..where could I get one?
Hi mate...You can get them rebuilt but generally after a good clean they are okay..I regularly clean with electrical contact cleaner the AFM plug and clean the pins on the AFM where the plug goes with a little 1200grt wet and dry or an emery board what the ladies use for their nails...Very handy for corns as well...
I also clean the ballast...CTS and Thermotime connectors...The ECU plug and pins and wipe out the distributor once a month as water can ingress into it..I have the plug on the ballast resistor tied with some cable ties though to make good contact.
The AFM can be cleaned periodically with AFM cleaner/Solvent..Or some brake & Clutch spray but don't get too much going upwards towards the plastic top..Just a bit on the flap and inlet & Outlet..I have put a few drops of oil on to the flaps hinge points in the past and i seem to have been ...Well i won't say anything else now as i don't want to tempt fate...
If you use your Wedge regularly then periodical checks and inspections are needed..Of all moving parts and fluids..Keeping the air filters clean is another good thing...Glad you got it sorted....Ziga
PS: If it happens again id say fuel pump.....
I also clean the ballast...CTS and Thermotime connectors...The ECU plug and pins and wipe out the distributor once a month as water can ingress into it..I have the plug on the ballast resistor tied with some cable ties though to make good contact.
The AFM can be cleaned periodically with AFM cleaner/Solvent..Or some brake & Clutch spray but don't get too much going upwards towards the plastic top..Just a bit on the flap and inlet & Outlet..I have put a few drops of oil on to the flaps hinge points in the past and i seem to have been ...Well i won't say anything else now as i don't want to tempt fate...
If you use your Wedge regularly then periodical checks and inspections are needed..Of all moving parts and fluids..Keeping the air filters clean is another good thing...Glad you got it sorted....Ziga
PS: If it happens again id say fuel pump.....
mrzigazaga said:
Hi mate...You can get them rebuilt but generally after a good clean they are okay..I regularly clean with electrical contact cleaner the AFM plug and clean the pins on the AFM where the plug goes with a little 1200grt wet and dry or an emery board what the ladies use for their nails...Very handy for corns as well...
I also clean the ballast...CTS and Thermotime connectors...The ECU plug and pins and wipe out the distributor once a month as water can ingress into it..I have the plug on the ballast resistor tied with some cable ties though to make good contact.
The AFM can be cleaned periodically with AFM cleaner/Solvent..Or some brake & Clutch spray but don't get too much going upwards towards the plastic top..Just a bit on the flap and inlet & Outlet..I have put a few drops of oil on to the flaps hinge points in the past and i seem to have been ...Well i won't say anything else now as i don't want to tempt fate...
If you use your Wedge regularly then periodical checks and inspections are needed..Of all moving parts and fluids..Keeping the air filters clean is another good thing...Glad you got it sorted....Ziga
PS: If it happens again id say fuel pump.....
Good advice Mark.. I also thought it may be the fuel pump, I also thought maybe it was the alarm/immobiliser sodding around. I also clean the ballast...CTS and Thermotime connectors...The ECU plug and pins and wipe out the distributor once a month as water can ingress into it..I have the plug on the ballast resistor tied with some cable ties though to make good contact.
The AFM can be cleaned periodically with AFM cleaner/Solvent..Or some brake & Clutch spray but don't get too much going upwards towards the plastic top..Just a bit on the flap and inlet & Outlet..I have put a few drops of oil on to the flaps hinge points in the past and i seem to have been ...Well i won't say anything else now as i don't want to tempt fate...
If you use your Wedge regularly then periodical checks and inspections are needed..Of all moving parts and fluids..Keeping the air filters clean is another good thing...Glad you got it sorted....Ziga
PS: If it happens again id say fuel pump.....
I'll keep an eye on it all. In the 12 years of owning TVRs..particularly Wedges, 5 of them..this is the first time I have broken down. That's not bad at all really.
It's just had a thorough 12000 mile service, but I'll probably pay closer attention now to the points you mention.
adam quantrill said:
Use it more and it won't go wrong! Glad it's something simple.
For the AFM this should suffice I wouldn't have it rebuilt in case it doesn't match the ECU any more (they go in pairs, strictly speaking).
Something I'm guilty of...not using it enough. I was glad it was 'relatively' simple. For the AFM this should suffice I wouldn't have it rebuilt in case it doesn't match the ECU any more (they go in pairs, strictly speaking).
Thanks, I wasn't aware of that either.
adam quantrill said:
Use it more and it won't go wrong! Glad it's something simple.
For the AFM this should suffice I wouldn't have it rebuilt in case it doesn't match the ECU any more (they go in pairs, strictly speaking).
Not exactly......when I had AFM and ECU issues on the 420.....mark Adams rebuild the ecu and we put on an AFM from the shelfFor the AFM this should suffice I wouldn't have it rebuilt in case it doesn't match the ECU any more (they go in pairs, strictly speaking).
They were not matched so to speak, they were only matched once they've been dyno'd as there is a little tweak you can do inside the AFM whilst on the rollers
Give MA a buzz Wayne.....font of all Jag AFM knowledge
gmw9666 said:
adam quantrill said:
Use it more and it won't go wrong! Glad it's something simple.
For the AFM this should suffice I wouldn't have it rebuilt in case it doesn't match the ECU any more (they go in pairs, strictly speaking).
Not exactly......when I had AFM and ECU issues on the 420.....mark Adams rebuild the ecu and we put on an AFM from the shelfFor the AFM this should suffice I wouldn't have it rebuilt in case it doesn't match the ECU any more (they go in pairs, strictly speaking).
They were not matched so to speak, they were only matched once they've been dyno'd as there is a little tweak you can do inside the AFM whilst on the rollers
Give MA a buzz Wayne.....font of all Jag AFM knowledge
Waynester said:
Seems there was 12v to the coil, but nothing to the distributor. Checked the king lead & HT leads, they were fine, so suspected the coil or electronic control part next to the coil?
Turns out it was the air flow meter, the small switch which opens and shuts..operating the fuel pump had (we think) corroded slightly and needed cleaning with some fine emery cloth and contact cleaner.
Sounds odd; the airflow meter kill switch (usually) has nothing to do with the supply to the coil or distributor, it just prevents the fuel pump from running when there's no air being taken by the engine (so it shuts off the fuel if you crash).Turns out it was the air flow meter, the small switch which opens and shuts..operating the fuel pump had (we think) corroded slightly and needed cleaning with some fine emery cloth and contact cleaner.
Hidden away in my car is a little link wire, about 2" long with male Lucar blade connectors at each end so I can link out the fuel pump relay if it or the control circuit fails... everyone should have one
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