Reverse gear selection lt77
Discussion
Hi has anyone come across this problem.
When the car has just been started the reverse gear selection is great no problems.
When the box warms up it's difficult to select reverse.
The clutch plate is okay, the hydraulics are not leaking and all the forward gears are okay.
Can you adjust the linkage to compensate or is it a gearbox out job ?
I'm just trying to sort out the few remaining issues before i put it on the road at the end of the month.
Also waiting for the agreed value insurance to be sorted out in case something happens to it.
Thoughts / comments
Mike
When the car has just been started the reverse gear selection is great no problems.
When the box warms up it's difficult to select reverse.
The clutch plate is okay, the hydraulics are not leaking and all the forward gears are okay.
Can you adjust the linkage to compensate or is it a gearbox out job ?
I'm just trying to sort out the few remaining issues before i put it on the road at the end of the month.
Also waiting for the agreed value insurance to be sorted out in case something happens to it.
Thoughts / comments
Mike
Hi, The usual recommendation is to select 3rd gear before selecting reverse although that just stops it crunching. I had problems with my LT77 selecting reverse in my V8s.
There were a couple of issues, the first (cheap to fix!) was that the switch for the reversing lights had been damaged, it was screwed in too far and the selector lever would catch on it.
Secondly reverse was always a bit hit and miss, sometimes it would be fine other times it would be vague and difficult to select. Researching various Land Rover forums, prompted me to look at changing the G/box oil for AFT fluid. There are many differing views on this particularly around longevity etc so you probably want to make your own enquiries.
Anyway when I drained the oil there was a lot of debris attached to the magnetic drain plug, so I opted for a g/box rebuild which sorted all the issues. I did use ATF in it as it was recommended by the company that rebuilt it.
Hope the above helps
Matt
There were a couple of issues, the first (cheap to fix!) was that the switch for the reversing lights had been damaged, it was screwed in too far and the selector lever would catch on it.
Secondly reverse was always a bit hit and miss, sometimes it would be fine other times it would be vague and difficult to select. Researching various Land Rover forums, prompted me to look at changing the G/box oil for AFT fluid. There are many differing views on this particularly around longevity etc so you probably want to make your own enquiries.
Anyway when I drained the oil there was a lot of debris attached to the magnetic drain plug, so I opted for a g/box rebuild which sorted all the issues. I did use ATF in it as it was recommended by the company that rebuilt it.
Hope the above helps
Matt
I think it's a clutch issue and not gearbox. Once the engine and gearbox heat up, the metal components of the clutch expands and hence any clutch problem is magnified. Often, reverse is the first effected but given time, my guess is difficulty in selecting other gears will follow. Remedy,new clutch.
Tony. TCB.
Tony. TCB.
I've only just put the engine back in and the clutch wasn't even half worn so i'd be surprised if it's that.
I hope not !!!.
I will hopefully get the car on a four poster ramp at the end of the week when i get my vectra off and will check the oil and look at the bushes in the linkage.
I may even remove the reverse switch, if it's the same as a land rover then i've got a spare lt77 off a 90. I'll also check my defender 90 tonight as thats got an lt77 in it which has just been fully reconditioned by Ashcroft transmissions.
Thanks
Mike
I hope not !!!.
I will hopefully get the car on a four poster ramp at the end of the week when i get my vectra off and will check the oil and look at the bushes in the linkage.
I may even remove the reverse switch, if it's the same as a land rover then i've got a spare lt77 off a 90. I'll also check my defender 90 tonight as thats got an lt77 in it which has just been fully reconditioned by Ashcroft transmissions.
Thanks
Mike
Well, I too hope that it's not the clutch for your sake as you've only just put it back together. However, I do think that it's false economy not to replace the clutch having done all that work. Don't forget the clutch is a three piece and the friction plate may look good but what about the rest of it., cover springs etc. I'm only guessing by what you are describing but let's hope it's something a lot simpler. What ever the outcome, I dont think its anything that would need immediate attention and would probably last a long time yet.
Tony. TCB.
Tony. TCB.
It might not be the clutch but the spigot bearing - where the input shaft goes into the hole in the middle of the flywheel.
Any dragging-around of the input shaft will cause the crunch as there is no synchro on reverse. You can prove it easily by stopping the engine first - I bet a pound it won't crunch.
Any dragging-around of the input shaft will cause the crunch as there is no synchro on reverse. You can prove it easily by stopping the engine first - I bet a pound it won't crunch.
Edited by adam quantrill on Tuesday 19th May 20:24
adam quantrill said:
It might not be the clutch but the spigot bearing - where the input shaft goes into the hole in the middle of the flywheel.
It could be the spigot bearing but usually, when the spigot bearing is faulty, you can hear a bearing noise when the engine is idling and the clutch pedal not pressed. (is there a bearing noise on idle?). Whatever it is, I'll stick to my original theory that it's clutch related, even if it's not the clutch itself.
Tony. TCB
I will get the wedge on the ramp at the end of the week.
Spigot bearing ? couldn't remember if one was in there, the problem is that i do that many cars i forget things !!!. But i do remember getting one out of a crank !!!!.
Right just checked the build pics of the engine and there is definitely one in the end !!!
The clutch assembly was almost new so i don't expect any issues from that
I'll go down the farm tonight where the car and my landie are stored and have a good look.
(i've got too many projects on the go at the moment !!!)
Mike
Spigot bearing ? couldn't remember if one was in there, the problem is that i do that many cars i forget things !!!. But i do remember getting one out of a crank !!!!.
Right just checked the build pics of the engine and there is definitely one in the end !!!
The clutch assembly was almost new so i don't expect any issues from that
I'll go down the farm tonight where the car and my landie are stored and have a good look.
(i've got too many projects on the go at the moment !!!)
Mike
Hi Mike...I never ever had this because as a rule i wiggle the gear stick in neutral for a couple of seconds, Especially coming out of forward gears before putting into reverse..However the other day i didn't give it a wiggle and it felt very briefly like there was a wall there..First thought was..."B0LL0CKS...I bet its the clutch"..Gave it the usual "wiggle" and hey presto...I think it carried over from the 280i as that was a bit of a SOB sometimes..
I also have ATF fluid in mine and recently topped it up as something is weeping... Although as a bonus i guess at least i have a low cost chassis coating system... Happy days...
I also have ATF fluid in mine and recently topped it up as something is weeping... Although as a bonus i guess at least i have a low cost chassis coating system... Happy days...
The RV8's spigot bearing is just a bronze bush.
Mine was replaced 20,000 miles ago when the engine was rebuilt. The old one had negligible wear or damage but for the sake of a fiver I wasn't going to let it go
The easiest way to extract one is to pack it full of grease and ram a close-fitting solid drift into it - hydraulic action forces the bush out past the drift.
Mine was replaced 20,000 miles ago when the engine was rebuilt. The old one had negligible wear or damage but for the sake of a fiver I wasn't going to let it go
The easiest way to extract one is to pack it full of grease and ram a close-fitting solid drift into it - hydraulic action forces the bush out past the drift.
Well i've been to the farm and had a quick play.
There is no play in the gear lever up or down.
If i try and select reverse without the engine running it struggles to go in.(lever moves sideways but struggles to go forward without crunching )
Start the car and and even worse, put it into third gear first and it goes straight into reverse no problem.
Will get it onto the ramp this weekend to have a look at the reverse switch and the rubber bushes.
Mike
There is no play in the gear lever up or down.
If i try and select reverse without the engine running it struggles to go in.(lever moves sideways but struggles to go forward without crunching )
Start the car and and even worse, put it into third gear first and it goes straight into reverse no problem.
Will get it onto the ramp this weekend to have a look at the reverse switch and the rubber bushes.
Mike
mike various said:
There is no play in the gear lever up or down.
If i try and select reverse without the engine running it struggles to go in.(lever moves sideways but struggles to go forward without crunching )
Start the car, put it into third gear first and it goes straight into reverse no problem.
Sounds just like mine If i try and select reverse without the engine running it struggles to go in.(lever moves sideways but struggles to go forward without crunching )
Start the car, put it into third gear first and it goes straight into reverse no problem.
Without the shafts rotating, you have to catch the reverse gears so that the teeth aren't aligned with each other otherwise it won't go in.
Choosing another gear first rotates the shafts slightly and then the teeth of one gear align with the 'gaps' of the other.
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